High-end sushi, ergo omakase, in America is a funny concept. Most of the restaurants in NYC adopt a hybrid East-Meets-West approach. Nobu and Sushi of Gari immediately come to mind. And one would often find toppings that are not commonly found in traditional Edomae-style (江戶前) sushi. Lemon foam. Jalapeños. You name it. Surely the fishermen during the Edo period (1603-1868) in Japan were not able to procure said condiments in their times. And so as a diner, you either love or hate this preparation philosophy. Or hate it vehemently, as I often do since that is not how it is eaten stylistically. More often than not, I find that such fastidious fervor over condiments detracts attention from the handling of the seafood and the rice, which arguably is what makes sushi sushi (すし).
Sushi Inoue quietly opened in July 2015 in the newly-gentrified bits of Harlem, a neighborhood that is famous for crime and definitely not high-end eateries. While it is a trek to get there, it is the pedigree and vision of Shinichi Inoue (新一井上) that attract me. Trained in Tokyo for 20 years in the traditional craft of Sushi, Chef Inoue then landed in New York and ultimately assumed the role of head chef in the Michelin-rated Sushi Azabu in Tribeca. Not long after, he departed and in last year, opened his own shop to bring authentic Japanese cuisine to the neighborhood.
R and I have been talking about eating at a nice sushi spot for quite a while now, especially since he owes me a meal after losing a bet. And so, we decide to check this place out after watching this Munchies video. As the restaurant currently does not have a liquor license, I am able to bring my own sake without any corkage fee. Needless to say, I am going to take full advantage of this!
Born Chogin 【梵：超吟】(ABV 16.0%, Seimai-buai 20%, Brewed in 2015-11), Fukui Prefecture
It has been a while since I have had ultra premium sake, and what a bottle this is! It is, after all, the sake gifted to the Japanese Imperial family during Masako and Crown Prince Naruhito's marriage in 1993. Brewed with yamadanishiki rice hailing from Hyogo Prefecture (兵库县) "A district", in-house yeast and underground water 184 meters below, the sake is then aged for 5 years at -8 degrees Celcius. The stringent polishing ratio at 20%, coupled with the slow and cold aging process, makes for a koshu (古酒) that boasts incredible depth. Ergo, this bottle, which I have hand carried form Hong Kong, is decanted for 3 hours before drinking.
This sake pours a crystal clear color with light golden tinge and very thick long legs. Appearance-wise, it resembles that of a young bourbon-barrel matured whisky. The nose is anything but. Pungent, concentrated and powerful, the delicate aromas just leap out from the glass. There are layers upon layers of cedar wood, jasmine flowers, peaches, hay, dried apricots and even a touch of vanilla. On the palate, the sake is exceptionally viscous, full even, and boasts plenty of power yet light in weight. Such a profile almost reminds me of the ethereal Burgundies from the likes of Leroy and Leflaive - robust yet effortless. Flavors of bananas, peaches, Fuji apples, toasted nuts, white flowers and hay dominate the core. The finish is incredibly long, lasting almost 45 seconds. The sake then ends in a whisper of malted rice sweetness and alcohol heat. This is beautiful beyond words.
To say Chef Inoue is a funny chap is an understatement. He simply bustles with energy. At the beginning of the meal, I poured him a glass of the sake and he downed it in one fell swoop. It was only after I told him about the history of the bottle did he give me an "Oh shit. I shouldn't have done that. Don't kill me." look. Hilarious expression aside, I poured him a second and he truly enjoyed it throughout the entirety of our meal. Such is his electrifying, cheerful vibe.
But I digress. Back to the food. Sushi is only a part of the omakase menu as there are other cooked items on offer too. We start off with some tasty bites. (At this point, I am so regretting that I have forgotten to bring my camera, and can only rely on my phone.)
Appetizer - Sumi-ika Salad, Pumpkin Tofu, Tuna tatsuta-age
A trio of appetizers, each deserving plenty of praise.
Thin strips of Sumi-ika (墨烏賊) are dressed in a light sesame dressing and mixed with slivers of fennel and cucumber. Texture on the squid is superb as it is delectably chewy and yields to the bite. Taste-wise, the acidity in the background keeps things fresh and whets the appetite. A fabulous start.
This. This pumpkin tofu is deceptively good. It may arguably be the best bite in the entire meal. Do not be fooled by the simple looks. A play on goma-dofu (胡麻豆腐), Chef Inoue's version incorporates pureed pumpkins as it is in season right now. The result? A ridiculously creamy, unctuously buttery cube of heady pumpkin goodness. It is akin to eating a slab of thickened butter. Much needed umami from the bonito dashi to round things out. This is beyond words.
The final of the trio is a marinated-then-fried preparation of tuna. This preparation, or tatsuta-age (竜田揚げ), involves first marinating meat in soy sauce and mirin before being powdered in starch and fried. Here, tuna is used and the resulting nugget is very delectable. The fried skin locks in the juices and transforms the fish into a meaty, savory snack like that of a pliable piece of beef jerky. Very tasty indeed.
Autumn Bonito Roll, Ponzu
Much like pumpkins, autumn is bonito season and the fish gets fat to prepare for the throes of winter. As such, they are rich in oils and now is the perfect time to consume them. To counterbalance the richness, Chef Inoue rolls the fish up with julienned pieces of crunchy vegetables and dresses them in an acidic, ponzu-based sauce. Visually, the colors are striking. Taste-wise, the acidity is vibrant. Meanwhile, the crunchy vegetables, which consist of celery and radish, in the center provide a stark contrast to the supple flesh. Nothing too special or fancy here but it does showcase the knife skills of the Chef. Nonetheless, very tasty.
Sashimi - Chu-toro, Shima-aji, Madai, Tamago
Chu-toro (中トロ) is of the blue fin type (西黒鮪) and originates from Boston. A very archetypal expression of the specimen - unabashedly fat and unctuous with just a tad of bite to it. It seems like the tuna is aged prior to being served. Regrettably, my pieces have a bit of sinew.
Madai (真鯛), caught near the Shikoku Islands (四国), is just as solid. Flesh is oily and deliciously meaty. The freshness of the red sea bream is a stellar highlight.
Shima-aji (しま鯵) is also caught near the Shikoku Islands and is very fresh. Although the fish oils are full and front in your face, the fish is not fishy at all. I particularly enjoy the meaty texture in this. Very good.
Tamago (玉子) is made in-house and is similar to chiffon cake texturally - fluffy interior encased within a hardened, browned crust. Taste-wise, it is anything but. Surprisingly, Inoue's tamago is quite saline, like that of seafood. I have never had tamago quite like this before. And as I am expecting a different flavor profile, this is certainly an eyeopener for me.
Grilled Salmon with Mushroom Sauce with Yuzu Citrus Flavor, King Salmon Roe
I love the heady fungi fragrance in this dish. Upon uncovering the lid, that comforting aroma just hits me full and front. Many props to the kitchen for creating such a concentrated broth. However, the grilled salmon is overcooked and the interior is dry. Also, I am not sure why the ikura is there since its delicate flavor is dwarfed by the other components. That said, the broth is still very tasty and is piping hot. Perfect answer to the chilly weather.
Madai Collar Braised in Shoyu Dashi
A complimentary dish from the kitchen, the madai kama no nitsuke (真鯛カマの煮付け) reminds me of the Shanghainese cuisine classic soy braised fish (紅燒魚). This is another winner. The braising renders the flesh supple and draws out the oils and collagens within the soft parts of the bone, making for a very tasty treat. The meat just cascades off and breaks apart under the slightest of pressure. The best part, however, is the home-made sweet soy as it boasts delicious balance between sweet, savory and umami. A homey dish, but one that truly tugs at the heart.
Sushi Omakase
And now the pièce de résistance! Before the sushi is served, we are presented a hot towel. Such a nice touch of detail and so traditionally Japanese.
A few notes before the piece by piece commentary:
- Wasabi is ground on spot, before serving, on a plaque clothed in shark skin. The result is incredibly fresh wasabi that is not as abrasive but is sweeter and more pungent.
- Chef Inoue makes his own soy sauce. He makes two types of it, a lighter one and a darker one. The oil content and texture of the fish determine which should be used - fatty fish demands the darker, richer version, while leaner cuts use the lighter more viscous one.
- Two types of gari (ガリ) is served, a normal thinly-sliced version and a thick-cut version. I enjoy the latter more. It is spicier, more subtle and has a good depth of flavor it. I am told the chef pickles his own ginger in a concoction of sake, mirin, vinegar and chilis.
- The shari (しゃり) is on the warm side. The grains are plump, distinct and soft.
Grinding wasabi against shark's skin.
Pickling.
Thick cut ginger.
Pacific Saury - Sanma 【秋刀魚】from Hokkaido Prefecture
Autumn is sanma season, a time when this species is at its plumpest and fattiest. This one in particular is a fine specimen. Dressed with diced scallions, the fish is oily and fat without an ounce of fishiness. I am surprised to find the fish somewhat cold as the temperature muted the flavors a little. Nothing major though.
Greater Amberjack - Kanpachi【間八】from Kagoshima Prefecture
Just like the sanma, autumn is amberjack season. However, this specimen is on the meatier side and does not have as much oil or fish as I hoped. I am guessing a bit longer aging would further bring out the flavors?
“Ink" Squid - Sumi Ika【墨烏賊 】from Kyushu
This piece is incredibly and is probably my second favorite right behind the ikura. The thickness of the shellfish, along with the chef's superb knife skills, truly sets this apart from the rest. The squid is incredulously smooth and luxuriously pliable to bite. It is almost like eating a block of thickened yam cake. With a dab of soy, the inherent sweetness just shines through. Oishii!
Glass Shrimp - Shiro Ebi【白海老】from Toyama Prefecture
The ground ginger condiment and the soy sauce are not too pronounced in this bite. However, the shrimp is very sweet. The crustaceans are very soft and lack the snappiness that I enjoy in this class of crustaceans. This is alright, as frankly, it lacks a bit of character.
House-Marinated Salmon Roe - Ikura【イクラ】from Canada
Hands down the best piece of the entire omakase. Marinated in-house, the ikura is topped with wasabi and yuzu zest which is fresh-ground. The nori is very crispy and contrasts well with the popping textures of the roe. While the zest adds pricks of acidity and astringency to the bite, it is the marinade on the roe that steals the show. It is not overly salty, and the soy possesses a sweetnes that heightens the freshness of the roe. I also like the pronounced sake flavors in the marinade as well. This is arguably one of the best renditions of ikura I have had ever.
Fat-cut Tuna Belly - O-toro【大トロ】from Boston
This is much, much better than the learner version. Thick and unctuous, this specimen does not have any sinew and just yields upon mastication. The rice adds much needed levity to the unctuous fats. The only regret here is that the picture does not do the taste and texture justice.
House-Marinated Salmon Roe - Ikura【イクラ】from Canada
Complements from the Chef. Just another piece of my favorite.
Halibut Cured in Kombu - Hirame Kobujime【昆布締め平目】
Before the halibut is cut, the entire fillet is cured in slices of kombu, or dried seaweed. In his rendition, Chef Inoue uses rishiri kombu (利尻昆布). The point is to draw out the moisture within the fish to accentuate its flavor. As expected, this piece is served sans soy. Instead, there is a shiso leaf sandwiched between the neta and the shari. The fish is well and thoroughly moderated by the curing process. In addition to the concentrated umami and fish flavor, the texture is altered too and the flesh is more pliable and supple. Finally, the kiss of acidity from the shiso elevates the otherwise meaty flavors of the fish. Very good work indeed.
Splendid Alfonsino - Kinmedai【金目鯛】from Chiba Prefecture
Like Chef Norihiro at Kura, Chef Inoue lightly torches the skin. The brief kiss of the flame melts some of the fish oils and imparts a smoky flavor to the piece. Acidity of the rice is crucial here to cut through the fats. While this is tasty and enjoyable, it does not wow me. Ergo, despite the piece being well prepared, I do not find it particularly memorable.
Japanese Conger Eel - Anago【穴子】from Nagasaki Prefecture
Interesting to say the least as this deep-water version of eel is often served poached, rather than roasted. Nonetheless, the piece is topped with a soy that boasts plenty of sweetness, salinity and umami. All these are moderated by the brush of acidity from the yuzu. Despite the different preparation techniques, Chef Inoue's version is just as delicious. Eating it is like biting into an airy cloud. Nice.
Seafood Miso Soup
Nothing beats a bowl of piping hot, fresh miso soup during the throes of winter. Chef's version is of the white miso kind with a gigantic botan ebi (牡丹蝦) head floating within. The soup itself is teemed with umami and seafood salinity. Soothing and satisfying. Needless to say, I sucked out every bit of morsel from those prawn heads. Cholesterol galore. But so worth it.
At this point, the sushi course is done. But since there are still a couple other options on show, I decide to get two more pieces extra (ツイカ). They are both stellar. Thus, I am not sure why Chef Inoue does not include them on the omakase.
"Horse Dung" Sea Urchin - Bafun Uni【馬糞雲丹】from Hokkaido
Arguably the crème de la crème of this shop's offering, this sea urchin is of the ezo bafun uni (蝦夷馬糞海胆). These sea urchins are characterized by shorter spines, redder and firmer roe. This is extremely creamy and is like biting into an ice cream. For uni hailing from Hokkaido, this is surprisingly sweet and does not have the mineral streak commonly found in specimens from that region. One thing I particularly appreciate is the temperature of the neta. It is just cool enough to let the flavors unravel itself. Downright beautiful.
*Note: I think the uni is sourced from a seafood processor and distributor called 泰匠物產. But I may be wrong.
Steamed Abalone - Awabi mushi【蒸し鮑】from Santa Barbara
This is the best abalone preparations I have had, or as Chef Inoue jokingly remarks, "Tokyo style". The abalone is first steamed in sake, brushed in soy, and topped with a dab of wasabi and yuzu zest. Most often or not, I find the soy on the awabi mushi too sweet, thus detracting from the savoriness of the dish. But this one is just right and boasts remarkable balance. Meanwhile, the acidity cuts through the sweetness of the soy, creating a bite that is part acidic and part sweet, all moderated by the chewiness and the salinity of the flesh. Damn good.
Tuna Belly Hand Roll - O-toro Temaki【トロ巻】
As the sushi concludes, we are presented with the final piece of the night. The seaweed is still crispy despite the added soy, an testament to the quality of the seaweed itself. There is also a nuttiness to it. The grainy rice contrasts well with the suppleness of the toro tartar as well. I can eat a whole bento box of this for lunch.
Chocolate Mochi
This is what shocks me the most. It is hard for me to imagine a traditional sushi chef can produce such delicious desserts. Cubes of rice cakes, or mochi, are dusted in dark chocolate. The texture is extremely soft, supple and gelatinous. It is like that of the flesh at the base of the thumb. I particularly love how the mochi is not sweet and has a tannic cut from the chocolate. This provides remarkable balance and truly a beautiful way to conclude a fantastic meal.
Although there are a few minor blunders throughout the meal, it is undeniable that the food vouches for Chef Inoue's pedigree and training. The preparation is quintessentially authentic. Coupled with the somewhat nondescript storefront, it is like I am transported to a car park in a commercial building in Japan where a Michelin-starred sushi-ya resides. In a landscape where omakase is a term thrown around somewhat carelessly now to hike prices, Chef Inoue's approach to the traditional Japanese craft is still true to its core. It is this integrity behind his cooking philosophy and the sourcing of ingredients that I respect wholeheartedly. After all, that means paying respects to the ingredients that died, ergo, mother nature. And that is what eating is ultimately about right? Two thumbs up. (10/15/2016)