Nestled within the bustle of the busy Noho neighborhood lies Bessou, yet another newly-opened Japanese eatery in Manhattan. Though this time instead of tempura, the restaurant serves dishes after dishes of Japanese comfort food imbued with a modern, western twist. According to Maiko, the owner, the concept of the restaurant is born from her fond memories of the home cooked meals of her mother, a native hailing from Akita Prefecture (秋天县). Hence the name of the restaurant bessou (别莊), which means "home away from home" in Japanese. As such, the architecture certainly conveys this atmosphere. The interior is brightly lit and features bright cherry wooden colors, open brick walls and off-white paint. Bamboo beams run vertically across, as if segmenting the dining room into various zones. There even is a wood cut section functioning as a counter top plastered onto the perimeter of the bar. Such distinctly modern yet natural design adds an oriental flair and earnestness to the ambiance. It is as if I am transported into a log cabin, a family's summer vacation home perched upon the mountainous regions of northern Japan.
As is the case of Soho and Noho restaurants, the interior of Bessou is somewhat loud. Nonetheless, there is no need to shout across the table to be heard. The drinks menu is on the weak side. Apart from a few domestic and Japanese beers, four choices for each type of wine and a handful of sakes, there is not much to take away from the menu. Despite that, the markup is rather modest as the Daishichi Minowamon, which is the most expensive sake on the menu at $141, is only 2x markup from retail. Perhaps the biggest bummer is the absence of a corkage policy, as I am initially looking for another regular spot to host wine dinners. With that said, the restaurant does allow outside cakes and desserts and charge a cutting fee accordingly.
As Z and I are both hungry, we decide to order pretty much the entire menu. This is quite a bit of food, but it does give me an accurate portrayal of the dishes on offer. To kick the things off, we are presented with two knobs of black garlic as amuse bouche.
Black Garlic
These are grown in the owner's backyard and fermented in-house for two weeks. I am surprised at the remarkably short period of time as it often takes 90 days to fully transform fresh garlic into the black counterparts. Perhaps this is done in a pressure cooker? I am not sure. Nonetheless, the garlic is delicious. It is sweet, succulent and just a whisper of acidity, much like that of an aged balsamic glaze. The taste is delicate and the bite is supple and soft. What a delicious way to start the meal.
Bamboo in Chili Oil - Burnt Pork Ends, Rayu Chili
This is gob-smacking goodness. It is quite amazing how the freshness of the bamboo just sings in this dish. Unlike the flabby pieces of menma (麺麻) one finds in ramen shops, the shoots are brined lightly so the satisfying crunch is still there. Meanwhile, the burnt pork ends provide a textural, chewy contrast. The rendering of the meat also imparts lard, which add a depth of flavor and richness. All this is cut by the assertive but not overpowering heat of the homemade rayu (辣油) chili oil.
I can eat a whole plate of this.
Charred Eggplant Caponata - Tama Miso, Lotus Root Chips, Mint
Undoubtedly Sicilian in stature, this dish is a cross between the iconic cooked eggplant salad and traditional Japanese ingredients. The flavor profile, along with the contrasting textures, is particularly unique. The lotus root chips are toasty and crispy. This contrasts well with the mushy eggplant casserole. I am also a fan of the tama miso (玉味噌), a silky miso sauce enriched and thickened with egg yolk, as it injects sweetness and fragrance to the dish. The julienned mint leaves add a cooling levity in the end, making this dish ever so light and palatable. Fabulous.
Grilled Romaine - Soy Quail Egg, Jako, Creamy Sesame Dressing
It is not difficult to see that this is a deconstruction of the traditional Caesar salad. The components, however, are substituted with Japanese ingredients. Emulating the crunch of croutons and the fishiness of anchovies is a layer jako (じゃこ), a seasoning of minuscule white anchovies that are flash-fried. And in place of the creamy Caesar dressing is a blend of sesame paste moderated by soy-marinated quail egg yolks. All in all, these new ingredients make for an extremely interesting and tasty flavor profile. I get smokiness from the charred leaves, freshness from the lettuce, nutty sweetness from the sesame dressing and a delectable crunch from the vegetable and jako. There even is a kiss of acidity to lift things up. And despite the richness, the dish feels clean and I do not detect an ounce of fat.
For me, this may be the standout dish of the night, and it is not just because of the harmonious marriage of flavors, or the stellar presentation (grilled whole on the stalk!). But rather, it is this cerebral approach to reinvent classic flavors into modern dishes. And the combination of ingredients just works. This is not only a testament to the skilled palate and hands of the chef, but also a highly functioning, creative brain. Truly, truly fabulous.
Crudo du Jour - Arctic Char with Black Garlic Paste, Finger Lime, Celery Leaf and Radish
Although this dish is tasty, it is a rather prototypical rendition of crudo. The flavors are on point - acidity from the lime, astringency from the radish and oiliness from the arctic char slices. However, the dish is just what you would expect and not life changing. I also wish there is more of the black garlic as the flavor from the fermented bulb is lost amongst the smattering of accouterments. The fish itself can also be fresher in my opinion. Nonetheless, despite these drawbacks, the skin is superb. In fact, it is probably the best part as it demonstrates flawless execution. Impossibly thin and super crispy, the skin does not have an ounce of fat or fish oil left at all. It is so delicate that it reminds me of the glass screen protector on cell phones. Great technique there.
That skin is so ethereally thin.
Beef Tataki Salad - Beef Carpaccio Salad with Ponzu Vinaigrette
This is arguably the tastiest dish of the nice. And quite frankly, it looks more Korean than Japanese. After all, I do associate beef with the former and seafood with the latter. Mint, dill, daikon (大根) and radish wheels are mixed with thin beef slices. Together, they are marinated in a ponzu (ポン酢) and rayu dressing. The marinade itself is yet another riff on the traditionally western salad dressing of oil and vinegar. Like the colors of the componenets, the taste of the salad is just as vibrant - fiery and fresh with a zing. There is nothing complex going on here. But the flavors are on point and it is well-executed. I love unassuming dishes like these.
One interesting note - the mint really adds a new dimension here as the lingering coolness cuts through the oil and fat. In fact, this freshness urges me to eat more. Never thought of pairing mint with beef but it works.
Fritto Misto - Prawns, Sardines, Calamari, Meyer Lemon Sauce
This "mixed fry" contains several types of seafood, namely a sardine, squid and prawns, heads and tails separated. I am a fan of the batter as well as the frying technique. The batter is thin, seasoned and light. Inside, the seafood pieces are still piping hot. The sardines are fresh and not fishy at all. Boasting plenty of oils, the flesh is so tender I can even eat the bones too. However, the calamari is a failure as it is overcooked and rubbery. The pieces are also too big to be eaten in one bite. Meanwhile, the prawns are standard and I like the crispness of the fried shell.
About the sauce - I am not a fan as it is way too acidic. It is almost like straight up vinegar. Meyer lemon? Where art thou? Frankly, I don't think the sauce is even necessary. Just a spritz of lemon juice and a dusting of salt would have done the simple trick of transforming this into a tasty snack.
Grilled Sardines - Ginger and Shiso Chimichurri, Soy
Ah, the daily entree special. Much like the previous dish, the sardines are just as fresh and succulent. The grilling only further accentuates the inherent oiliness and imparts a smoky tang to complement it. The lack of overly fussy preparation allows the freshness and simplicity of the ingredients to sing. The chimichurri is quite delectable, as the pricks of spice from the ginger, the acidity and sharpness from the shiso (紫蘇) cut through the oils. For me, this would have been perfect if the Chef is a touch lighter on the seasoning.
When asked, Maiko said the "[chimichurri] is made with ginger, shiso, and plenty of love from her father". I can definitely see why. Huge respect to this family business.
Chicken Karaage - Fried Chicken Seasoned with Moroccan Spices, Roasted Cauliflower, Shiso Tzatziki
The quintessential food that is celebrated across the world - fried chicken, or kara-age (唐揚げ) in Japanese. Again, I can see how the chef is trying to play and impart western classics with Japanese ingredients. Instead of dill, the tzatziki is folded with julienned shiso. Also, the chicken is dusted with Moroccan spices and paired with roasted cauliflower and a single stalk of charred scallion.
Despite the multitude of components, I do not think this dish hits the mark. The portion is certainly generous and the seasoning on the chicken is tasty. It is highlighted by nuttiness and boasts just the right balance of sweetness and spice. However, I do not think it is for everyone. More regrettably, the chicken is a tad dry. I have a hunch that the chicken is not properly rested after the frying. Also, what is the scallion doing on top? It is tasty, but it is not coherent with the other components.
The cauliflower is also beautifully roasted and displays crispy, browned florets. It almost mimics the fried chicken pieces in appearance. And for that, props to creativity to the chef. Flavor-wise, the cauliflower is paired with caramelized walnuts, raisins and sultanas, all of which are typical accouterments to the vegetable. Standard and satisfying, but nothing too special to write home about.
Inaniwa Udon - Regional Udon to Akita, with Assortment of Tempura, Served Cold with House Made Dipping Sauce
Probably the dish that perplexes me the most the entire night. I am always a fan of inaniwa udon (稻庭烏冬), as the slippery, thin strands and the cool, heady broth make for such a fun eating experience. And the noodles here do not disappoint. But it is the broth that steals the show. The shiitake undertone is so strong and the sweetness is just so comforting. The sprinkle of sesame seeds only further elevate the flavors in this dish. Food aside, I especially like the attention to detail in having a dish below the colander to catch the melted ice. Props.
While the udon and broth are stellar, the accompanying vegetable tempura is anything but. The pieces are large and the portion is generous. However, they are not cooked well at all. The batter is remarkably thick, bland a doughy. The fried pieces are also way too oily. What happened to the kitchen? I bet it is the same fryer and batter that is used for the fritto misto. So why the huge discrepancy? I ponder as I slurp on the soup.
Frankly, I am more than happy to pay for just the noodles and the broth at the listed price point. They are that good. The vegetable tempura almost seems like an afterthought in comparison.
Nine dishes between two people is quite substantial. Naturally, we are beyond stuffed and have no extra room for dessert. Although there are slight mishaps in execution along the way, the dishes are coherent and the meal as a whole is very enjoyable. Fusion food showcasing ethnic cuisine reinterpreted in western ways is always be a hit or miss. In particular, the traditional flavors of the former are often lost through fussy preparation techniques, resulting in food that is lost in translation. Why is there chocolate in my soup dumpling? Why are Japanese and Thai cuisines often mashed together? And the one that perplexes me the most. Just why the fuck is there cream cheese in my sushi roll? It is not a mark of creativity, but rather a flagrant disrespect to the indigenous ingredients. I am not saying all fusion cuisines are bad. When it works, it does so beautifully. But the ones that do are often the ones that pay deep-seated homage and respect for the tradition at core, manifested through techniques, ingredients and experience. And Bessou achieves exactly that with flying colors. (2016/09/20)