Tomorrow (11/17/2016) is a big day as it marks the release of the annual Michelin guide, or the Little Red Book, for New York City. Luckily, I am able to get my hands on a copy before the actual release. It is no news that the European guide, though by no means definitive, carries much weight within the dining circle in New York. Either way, this is the list, and the subsequent rant:
(PC from Eater.)
*Below are purely personal opinions and observations.
1) It has been six years since any restaurants in NYC gets to join the scion of highest honors. The last time this happened was in 2011 when Eleven Madison Park and Brooklyn Fare both joined the 3* club. In this same time period, there are 5 restaurants in San Francisco being promoted to 3 stars. Is this an indication that the dining scene in NYC deteriorating? Surely that cannot be.
2) Very surprised to see Per Se still up there, especially after the ferocious tirade, in which "mushroom sauce is likened to bong water", Pete Wells launched against the restaurant and the subsequent demotion from 4 stars to 2 in the New York Times. The criticism was so caustic that Thomas Keller wrote an open letter of apology. Let that sink in for a while.
Michelin has plenty of explanation to do what they see in Per Se that Pete Wells does not. Quite frankly, the deterioration in the hospitality experience from Per Se has persisted for a while. And by my books, it should be demoted.
3) This is a debut season for Aska 2.0, one that pitches them up onto the 2 star category upon entry. The last time this happened in NYC was with Atera. This also places Aska in the same rung as Noma in Copenhagen. I have never tried Aska 2.0, but only Aska 1.0 when it was still at Kinfolk Studios in Williamsburg in 2013. By my books, it may be 1 star worthy, but definitely not 2. But why should I be surprised? After all, Michelin hands out stars like candy bars during Halloween these days.
For your reference, this is Aska's menu back in 2013. Hell, Eamon Rockey (now at Betony), was still working there then.
April 2013. @Aska.
4) John Fraser, formerly of Dovetail, opened Nix this year, a vegetable-heavy restaurant which garnered 1 star in this year's guide. Go.
5) Claus Meyer, one of Noma's co-founders, opened Agern this year. I have written about it back in April. Now it has gotten 1 star. Still worth it. Go.
6) Sushi Inoue, which has gotten 1 star, is just as worth it. Like Agern, I have written about it too. Go.
7) Olmsted, Le Coucou, Shuko, Estela, Sushi Nakazawa, Wildair are all snubbed. For the second year in a row, Nakazawa and Estela are getting nothing. Instead, Michelin decides to give newcomer Sushi Zo and Ginza Onodera a star. Not to carp on the latter two as I am sure they are worthy of the star, but if they are worthy of the 1-star grade, Nakazawa should definitely get one too. Whatever the fuck the Michelin guide people are smoking, it seems to pay dividends. I definitely want to get my hands on some of that crack.
8) Cafe China is still on. What the fuck? How can Cafe China be worth the same grade as Betony, Agern and Gramercy Tavern. The entire hospitality experience, from wine list to staff training to dining environment, is completely different. Hell, they are not even in the same league.
Michelin is founded upon recommending hotels and restaurants to the first car owners in Europe. Ergo, hospitality experience. Now, just where the fuck does the Chinese takeout (on Seamless at least) restaurant rest given this context? Again, whatever the judges are smoking, I want some of that.
9) Surprised to see Jean Georges still on there at 3 stars. If there should be any demotion, it should be them first before Daniel.
10) Sad to see David Bouley and his list of restaurants (Ichimura, Brushstroke, Bouley) go and leave the list. Bouley should definitely be of 2-star granduer.
11) Surprised to see Sushi Azabu go as well.
12) The new entries are super Japanese-focused. Could this be the new trend in dining? At the very least, I am seeing Northern European/Scandinavian cuisine adopting more and more Japanese cooking principles and techniques.
Just a short conclusion
Below is a list of new starred restaurants that join the club:
- Aska
- Agern
- Contra
- Faro
- Gunter Seeger
- Kanoyama
- L'Appart
- La Sirena
- Nix
- Sushi Ginza Onodera
- Sushi Inoue
- Sushi Zo
- Ushiwakamaru
Below is a list of starred restaurants that got demoted:
- Ichimura (from 2* to 0)
- Bouley
- Brushstroke
- Juni
- M. Wells Steakhouse
- Picholine
- Pok Pok NY
- Rosanjin
- Somtum Der
- Spotted Pig
- Sushi Azabu
- Telepan
Please leave your thoughts in the comments section below!