Following the opening of Nix in the summer of 2016, Ladybird, which is helmed by Daphne Cheng (Mother of Pearl) and Ravi DeRossi (Mother of Pearl, Bourgeois Pig). A native of Shanghai, Chef Cheng has a rather impressive CV given her pioneering ventures in Suite ThreeOhSix, Exhibit C and Mother of Pearl. As a result of her unconventional take on vegan cuisine, she has developed a cult-like following in NYC, especially within the Chinese study-abroad-students circle. And thus, following my positive experiences with vegan cuisine at Nix, coupled with Chef Cheng's experiences, I am more than excited to hear about the opening of Ladybird, which serves "globally-inspired vegetable tapas", within the bustling heart of Greenwich Village.
Stepping into the restaurant makes me feel anachronistically transported back in time. Everything screams of posh, old-money decor that harken the heyday of post Industrial Revolution French bourgeois. White marble counter tops. Golden gilded beams replete with detailed engravings. Large panel mirrors. Emerald curtains that coincide with the green velvet on the stools. There even are low-hanging chandeliers to complete the look. Needless to say, the interior decoration is superb.
Just like a dimsum restaurant, Ladybird serves its menu up in a sheet of paper on which patrons can circle the desired dishes. The menu is split into a couple sections ranging from light bites to full-sized entrees. While the restaurant also markets itself as a wine bar, I find the list mediocre at best given the lack of variety. Moreover, the 40 USD corkage fee is on the steeper end of the spectrum as well. Nevertheless, they do make interesting cocktails since they are all wine or beer based, as the restaurant does not have a spirits license. And finally, a bonus point for using Riedel cocktail glasses.
Onto the food. And a bumpy ride awaits.
Fried
Mushroom Diablo - Oyster Mushrooms, Togarashi, Spicy Sichuan Sauce, Lemon & Herb
Essentially, this is a dish of fried mushrooms accompanied by a dusting of chili and served with chili sauce and herbed citrus crumbs. The mushrooms are piping hot, juicy, and teemed with umami. And this is probably the only praise I can lavish on the dish. The batter, which lacks carbonation and air pockets, is way too thick and doughy. Its texture is akin to burnished animal hide. The Sichuan sauce, for lack of a better description, tastes just like a sweetened Sriracha paste. It is spicy, but no where is it numbing at all, the effect of which is the epitome of Sichuan cuisine. I did not even bother with the feta cheese-like condiment to save on the calories.
Diablo? Well yeah. I just went to hell and saw the devil after eating this. Where is the creativity?
Brussels Sprouts - Sesame Sauce, Green Apple, Mint, Mirin, Almonds
While it is decent, the dish is too sweet for my taste. But despite the sweetness, it does not feel cloying. So good on the Chef and her team. The dish is constructed by laying sauteed Brussels Sprouts at the bottom and topping them with sesame sauce and finely-cubed green apples. The fruit adds crunch and a touch of acidity to liven up the dish. Meanwhile, the bitterness in the sprouts do complement the coolness of the mint well. However, I cannot taste the specs of almonds. The idea and creativity are unquestionably there, but the execution can take a reexamination.
And this is where it shows the lack of training from the staff. L and I are clearly still working our way through the mains and down plopped the next two dishes. That is four dishes within the span of five minutes. It is humanely impossible to chew through food that quickly. Does the restaurant expect us to eat soggy batter and cold bread?
Grain
Mushroom - Fig, Mushroom Truffle Pate, Black Vinegar, Wild Mushrooms
This is arguably one of the better bites of the night. As one can imagine, this is umami heaven accented by touches of sweetness from the figs and vinegar. The acidity from the vinegar does a superb job livening up the dish and offering harmonious balance. Meanwhile, I appreciate the uneven cut to the mushroom duxelle as the chopping lends a bite to the fungi. While the bread is soggy as it soaks up all the juices, the crust is still crunchy enough to provide textural contrast. A decadent dish which is executed rather flawlessly.
Saganaki - Flaming Soy Mozzarella, Smoked Carrot, Wild Arugula Pesto
Executive summary - This is an utter failure.
If the mushroom toast is heaven, this is surely hell. And there is no respite starting from the first bite of the dish. While the spectacle of the "cheese" torched with brandy is quite captivating, the texture and flavor leave much to be desired. Is the carrot smoked? I cannot taste the char. Where is the brandy fragrance? Is the "mozzarella" supposed to be crumbly and tasteless like compressed, day-old porridge? I cannot tell because guess what? That carpet of mulch, a.k.a. arugula spread, the color of which is reminiscent of vicious-looking mold, just obliterates all sorts of delicate, nuanced flavors. That it is so frustratingly bitter, abrasive and dominating makes me question whether Chef and her team taste the food they put out.
And the soggy bread does not help.
Harvest
Charred Eggplant - Tofu Ricotta, Apricot Jalapeno, Sherry Vinegar
Following the nightmarish Saganaki comes a more palatable plate of food. The roasted eggplant is supple, earthy and juicy, replete with a crispy, charred skin kissed by smoke. The vinegar, along with the apricot jalapeno radish, do moderate the eggplant and lends vibrant acidity to the dish. However, I am not sure what the tofu ricotta is doing there as it is rather tasteless, much like mush. I am also not sure why there are chips of sweet potatoes layered on top. Because they surely are not crispy. It really boggles my mind why there are unnecessary accouterments, as the dish, is kept simple, can be a real stunner. What a shame.
King Trumpet & Oyster Mushroom - Wild Arugula Pesto, Oyster Leaf, Saffron Mignonette
Ah, the art of simplicity. The fungi, sliced into scallop-like rings, are beautifully seared with rings of brown, crusty char. As expected, the umami within, which is followed by smokiness, hits unabashedly. The acidity from the mignonette and oyster leaf does balance the earthy flavors. That said, I am not sure I can see the saffron as the mignonette is not bright yellow. On a whole, this dish is decent, minus the arugula pesto. There is no fucking way I am eating that wretchedly bitter mulch again.
Broccoli Rabe - Sichuan Chili, Lemon Verbena, Hemp Seed Butter
Balance! Where art thou? While the vegetables are delicately tender and I appreciate the astringency of the rapini, the bitterness of the vegetable and the spiciness of the chili oil mask the other flavors. The hemp seed butter, along with the lemon verbena, are just not assertive enough to shine through the bolder, if not more abrasive, flavors. What boggles me more is the price of the dish. These are just vegetables after all, cooked as such and presented as such, with a few underwhelming accompaniments. They have not undergone any mind-blowing transfiguration to create eye-opening flavor combinations. How then, is this worth 12 USD for a few stalks of broccoli rabe?
Roasted Maitake - Parsnip, Rainbow Swiss Chard, Sumac, Coconut
Luckily, the dinner ends on a somewhat positive note.
The dish is composed of two florets of maitake crested upon a bed of cococnut mash dusted with sumac. Like the maitake at NUR, Ladybird's version is just as beautifully charred and showcases the crispy, slightly burnt fringes. Umami hits relentlessly and brings along a forceful smack of delicious earthiness. Meanwhile, the chard acts as a perfect foil as it contributes woodiness, bitterness and crunch. Despite the major components singing in the foreground, the winner, to me, is the unsung hero of the coconut mash. It is luxuriously smooth with just the right amount of sweetness and acidity. It almost reminds me of a creamy, Thai green curry sauce. Every component harmonizes and complements each other to create a truly stunning dish. This may be the best of the bunch.
Looks can be deceiving. And I think this certainly is the case for Ladybird. For while the poshness of the interior design is alluring, the food is anything but. And certainly not worth the 70 USD per person price tag post-tip. After all, decently seasoned and cooked dishes are far and few in between. On a whole, the cooking techniques lack creativity and the flavor combinations are pedestrian. For example, there are many ways to serve mushrooms instead of simply sautéing them. The fungi can be served as a tasty broth, which is exactly what Nix does. Then there are downright blunders in the cooking, in especially the horrid arugula pesto that is surely going to give me nightmares for days to come. In fact, such basic mishaps make me question Chef Cheng's training and pedigree. Surely she has taste buds right? After all, helming Mother of Pearl and finding Exhibit C are no simple tasks. Both of them have proven to be hits. How then, is Ladybird so utterly mediocre?
Mirror Mirror on the wall, what is the most white basic place of them all? This one definitely makes it into my shit list. (2016/11/19)
UPDATE (2016/12/22)
Chef Cheng reached out to me via Yelp and informed me that she was no longer with the restaurant since October and has moved to China since. All the best to her ventures there.
Now, no wonder the food is so bad as she is not there anymore. What a pity.