This may well be the best dinner I have had in 2016. For the price. For the thought. For the execution. For everything.
Following my post on Lowlife this year, I am sad to see the restaurant close this late summer as the investors decided to pull the chord. I have had very good experiences with Alex Leonard's food after all. Deconstructing traditional dishes. Challenging the ways ingredients are prepared and cooked. Grounded upon science, these cooking methods are on the cusp of food technology. They are forward looking, yet remain immensely enjoyable to the palate at the same time. It is sad to see a chef of his caliber go.
But as with many things in life, departures breed arrivals. In comes ALT, debuted late in November 2016. ALT is a new dining concept, a chef super group. It consists of Alex Leonard (Lowlife, Blanca, L2O, Daniel, Corton), Laurent Gras (L2O, Guy Savoy, Alain Ducasse Paris) and Tim Dornon (Eleven Madison Park, Qui, L2O). All of them have storied CV's and illustrious careers in some of the worlds' best kitchens. The common thread linking these three maestros up is apparent - L2O, the bygone seafood restaurant once garnering the highest honors from the Michelin macaron (macaron, not stars!) system. Chef Gras made a strong case when he was executive chef there, serving up some of the most inventive dishes by fusing Eastern and Western cuisines and incorporating science in his cooking. Perhaps, that is what influenced Chef Leonard in his style too.
So when three chefs possessing the same vein of cooking style put their heads together, one can expect a highly technical and scrumptious meal. It may not be flashy, but the detail and the thought behind each ingredient on the plate are evident. Every component in each dish exudes technical competence, confidence and exacting standards. And this is exactly what I get from the inaugural "Halibut: Head to Tail Feast" dinner. In hosting the meal, the ALT group rents out the event space at Rebelle and imports all their staff, from kitchen hands to servers to even making their own menus (beautiful textured paper indeed) and photography crew. A lot of work is needed to find the right people with the requisite backgrounds to do the job. This is certainly no easy feat and it is impressive the group gets all the cogs running. Operations-wise, there are some slight hiccups as the wait time is somewhat longer than usual. But that is pardonable. After all, this is the group's first time.
Relic.
Rebelle's interior is mesmerizing. Long white marble counter tops. Dried flowers sitting in ancient perfume bottles. Exposed brick walls adorned with the seasonal Christmas wreath. They scream of exacting poshness, but also of homey simplicity at the same time. Our dinner is at 6:30 and I am glad L and I arrive early so we can pick the counter seats. Since this is a one-off event, it is full house tonight!
Halibut: Head to Tail
Hot - Consommé, Ginger Lemon Grass, Avocado Oil
This is quite the welcoming drink indeed. Served piping hot, this clarified fish broth is incredibly fragrant and calming. Made from fish bones and fish head, the soup boasts concentrated flavors of the sea almost like that of a distilled essence. In fact, the consommé has good depth and length, with meatiness and seaweed salinity in the mix. Taste-wise, it reminds me a lot of Cantonese broths, no less because of the ginger. Props to the chefs as well since I do not detect a single smidgen of fishiness. Meanwhile, the texture is robust and generous. This is an undoubtedly restorative and hearty soup which is perfect for the cold weather. The only complaint is that I cannot really taste the avocado oil.
Cold - Sashimi-style, Wheat Bran Cure, Meyer Lemon Zest, Shaved Kohlrabi, Meyer Lemon Hummus
Borrowing from Japanese cooking techniques, in particular kobujime (昆布締め), this sashimi-style halibut is first cured in kombu to dry out the flesh and accentuate its flavors. There is so much going on in this dish. The halibut is meaty and possesses a kombu undertone. The cooked bran provides the right amount of bite. The kohlrabi and cured anise (?) cuts add woodiness and crunch to the dish. Meanwhile, the Meyer lemon zest just sings in the background with its acidity and subtle sweetness. All these flavors and textures are tied together by the rich but non-cloying hummus.
But the true highlight is the chili sauce that is fermented with koji (麹), or the mold that is responsible for converting rice into sake. Frankly, it tastes like a Chinese doubanjiang (豆瓣醬) but with an enviously finer consistency. There is such a beautiful depth of flavors in addition to the spiciness. When paired with the meats, it is just umami and crunch heaven. The contrasting textures. The vibrant colors. There are undoubtedly plenty of Asian influences in this dish. And all components are executed flawlessly.
Seared and Baked - White Teriyaki Sauce, Bone Marrow, Steamed Cabbage, Cauliflower Cream
Damn.
This may be the dish of the night. The plating may look simple, but the cooking behind is a different story. When presented, the concentration and depth of the fragrance are so intoxicating. The fish is cooked mi cuit as it is extremely moist and the flesh just flakes off. The flavor is on point. I can taste the delicate sweetness of the fish accentuated by a wisp of salinity. This pairs so well with the decadent cauliflower puree, the texture of which is so utterly smooth, unctuous and creamy. The flavor of cauliflower is robust and unapologetic too. To add another dimension in the mix comes the bordelaise sauce, an homage to Chef Gras's home country. Meaty, rich and with just the right amount of salinity, the bone-marrow-based sauce works wonders with the meatiness of the fish and stands up to the richness of the cauliflower puree. All three components work in harmony to create an explosive smattering of flavors, each wrestling its own weight to be heard. This is simply sublime.
Meanwhile, the accompanying cabbage shreds add crunch, a point of textural contrast. The taste reminds me a lot of the smoked cabbage from the yakitori dish at Lowlife. I fancy that the vegetable is first treated with xanthan gum (?) too so it will not break. That is science right there.
Charred - Over Coal and Butter Poached, Creme Fraiche, Beetroot Mole, Mataike
Like the previous dish, the plating of "Charred" is very simple. Two segments of halibut, coupled with a frond of maitake (舞茸), beetroot puree and a dollop of crème fraîche, adorn the dish. Yet despite the simplistic looks, the cooking techniques is anything but and the intoxicating fragrance vouches for it. The fish itself exhibits a leafy, coconut undertone. Texture-wise, it is meaty, succulent and supple. I also love the kick of smoke on the fish which highlights the spice inside the beetroot puree. Special props to the cooking team behind temperature control as the fish arrives still very warm.
Although it is not the spotlight of the dish, the butter-basted maitake would have to be the winner in this dish. On the get-go, the fragrance of the fungi is particularly pungent. The earthiness of the mushroom further complements the puree and the fleshy fish. Frankly, it reminds me a lot of the maitake I have had at NUR which is just as good. The alternating blasts of heat and cold from the continuous basting of butter create very crispy fringes yet maintaining a succulent interior. This is just one of the examples of technical mastery from the chefs.
Warm - Mousseline, Surf Clams, White Shrimps, Shellfish Bisque, Swiss Chard, Sticky Rice Cake
More deconstruction! This time, the Provençal classic fish stew bouillabaisse. In this dish, a gigantic sphere in the shape of a perfect snowball is crested upon a moat of radioactive orange-colored sauce, replete with a singular green leaf. Simple plating, but extremely delicious. Essentially, the "snowball" is a gigantic fishball, one that is created from halibut puree coupled with fine work from a chinois. That layer of white sauce on top of the "snowball" is full of halibut essence too, with plenty of umami to boot. Cutting into it, the texture is like that of poached pears, moist and pliable. Beautiful. The bisque, meanwhile, screams of decadent, concentrated shellfish flavors. It is extremely rich, and maybe a tad too salty for my taste. Nevertheless, it certainly accentuates the freshness of the accompanying surf clams (tastes more like geoduck to me?) and prawns, both cooked mi cuit with delectable snappiness to boot. The chard also lends a crunch to the dish, almost like that of a garnish. And finally, there are even two cuts of mochi to soak up the delicious sauce. Such a simple-looking, yet so fulfilling and delicious dish. This is faultless, in all honesty.
Apple and Pear
Frozen - Pear Liquor, Apple Sorbet
Served as an intermezzo to cleanse palates, the apple sorbet is drizzled with pear liquor. Encased within slate earthenware, the sorbet is luxuriously smooth with barely any detectable ice crystals. The lightness of the sorbet is simply enviable. I also particularly enjoy the heady apple fragrance as the acidity of the fruit is conveyed but the sweetness is kept in check. Meanwhile, the pear liquor just dances in the background providing faint but definite bursts of sweetness. Very nice segue into the final dessert of the evening.
Baked - Apple Pear Over Puff Pastry, Chestnut Honey Ice Cream
Just like the bouillabaisse, the chefs hit with another classic to end the meal. This time, it is Pie à la Mode, the components of which all scream of Christmas and winter fruits. Crested upon a bed of flaky, buttery goodness are alternating slices of apples and pears. Pairing the puff pastry is a side of ice cream boasting unabashed honey flavors supplemented by chestnut richness. Words cannot describe how delectable that honey ice cream is. Just like the sorbet, there are no ice crystals or lumps. This pairing works flawlessly as the cream and the pastry harmonize and contrast with each other. The richness in the butter goes with the ice cream. That crispy texture of the puff pastry and the indulgent smoothness of the ice cream. The satisfying sweetness in the honey and the muted acidity in the baked fruits. The temperature difference, both cold and hot. There are contrasts on so many fronts, yet all of them breed a harmonious sense of unity. This may be a very commonplace, tried-and-tested dish. But to me, it is just as heartwarming as an avant-garde dessert because of the impeccable execution.
It has been a while since I have last dined at Lowlife; and this meal reminds me again what NYC has been missing. While it may be difficult to classify this style of cooking as a particular regional cuisine, it is undeniable that it is fine cooking at core. The concept, the technical dexterity and the cohesion speak for themselves. All these traits work in harmony under a veil of simplicity so the diners can concentrate on their senses when experiencing the dish. There are no foams, nor films, nor other gimmicky modernist cuisine tricks. Rather, the chefs focus on time-consuming methods to create maximum flavors. The non-assuming sauce in the bouillabaisse and consommé both require a full day to extract. Meanwhile, the fermentation of the chili sauce may even take days, if not weeks, to form. In all these components, time is the differentiating factor between their dishes and the more pedestrian ones found elsewhere. It has been a long, star-studded journey for these three chefs. And I am so glad that they are finally bringing this type of cooking back onto the plates of NYC. What a privilege it is to savour the creations from these 3 brains. (12/4/2016)
Les Trois Mousquetaires - Laurent, Leonard, Dornon.
PS: The next pop-up will be at La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturel, on December 18, 2016. For those in NYC, don't hesitate. GO.