Following the fabulous experiences with the first dinner, it is a pity I could not attend the following two dinners as I was out of town. Thus, when I saw that another dinner from the ALT series was up, I hurriedly signed up to secure spots for this scrumptious meal. This is the fourth one and it is termed La Riviera, a word conjuring up bucolic scenes of the riverside. Fittingly, the cooking tonight reflects such style as it boasts heavy Provençal influence which hails from Southern France. It was Sunday night and I wanted something light to pair with a seafood-heavy menu. And so I fished for some white Burgundy from the cellar - a bottle that I have been dying to try for quite some time now.
2006 Domaine Dujac - Morey St. Denis Blanc
Pours a straw gold color which is quite surprising given the advanced age. Very viscous and legs are long. On the nose, the Chardonnay scent is unmistakable. Though a village level wine, the bouquet is incredibly heady. Concentrated and powerful, it consists of citrus pie, fresh cut grass, crushed rocks minerality, wet stones, toasty oak and the faintest hints of buttered popcorn. Palate is broad and generous. Though somewhat fat, there are piercing acids and minerals to provide definition and precision. Flinty is a good word for it. Flavors are more geared towards fruit, with plenty of wheat grass, citrus zest, bergamot oils and seawater lining the core. Finish is long, lingering with a touch of redolent smoke and char. Mouthwatering precision and salinity, coupled with the broadness and light use of oak, truly make this a very impressive wine. Drinking well now, though I see more years ahead of this. Dujac makes undeniably good stuff.
Soupe de Poisson a la Niçoise, Rouille a l'Oursin(Saffron Fish Soup, Sea Urchin Rouille - Niçoise Style)
Nothing spells homey hospitality more than a bowl of hot soup on a cold wintry night. This fish broth is decadent, its scent fragrant and heady. The unmistakable bouillabaisse bouquet just leaps out from the bowl, no less because of the saffron. Meanwhile, the accompanying fish chunks (red snapper?) are soft and supple, the juices of which just ooze out. Biting through, the oils glisten under the overhanging spotlight. It is the power combined with the lightness that makes this simple soup so delicious, almost like that of great Burgundy.
The accompanying rouille is just as delicious. Light yet luxuriously smooth, the urchin-laden sauce screams of salinity, umami and seafood sweetness. The pinpricks of spice from the piment d'espelette (?) undoubtedly tampers the dish. Texture-wise, the soft, supple sauce contrasts so well with the crispy, lightly-seasoned baguette slices. When consumed together, the soup, the rouille and the bread slices scream of unassuming yet delicious Provençal cooking. Fabulous stuff.
A minor thing to carp? The soup could have been hotter.
Poisson Cru, Citron, Huile d'Olive et Basilic (Fish Crudo, Lemon, Olive Oil, Basil)
Continuing with the Provençal theme are generous slices of raw black sea bass lightly dressed in acids. Accompanying the crudo are basil seeds, basil oil and a salad of radishes and fennel, all dressed in citrus. The dusting of lime zest (or sudachi?) is particularly refreshing as well. In addition, the olive oil (?) that lies underneath the bouquet serves as a perfect foil to the Mediterranean flavors. Meanwhile, the fish, along with its rosy pink interior, is so fresh as if it is plucked straight out from the sea. The contrasting textures between the meaty yet supple flesh and the astringent, crunchy vegetables is what makes this so remarkable. Though the dish boasts classic flavors, the precision of them is unparalleled. This is arguably the best dish of the night for me.
And this goes so well with the wine!
Ble de Printemps a la Vapeur, Legumes Fermentes Aux Olives(Steamed Wheat and Barley, Fermented Vegetables with Olives)
Given the simplicity of the components, this is an undoubtedly homey dish. The flavors, although familiar, are still deeply satisfying. The pearled barley and wheat are both saccharine and supple. Meanwhile, the fermented vegetables, which consist of scallions, cucumbers, olives and onions (?), add requisite salinity and acidity to the otherwise unidimensional grains. Frankly, I see this as an homage to traditional Japanese home cooking - white rice with tsukemono (漬物). Humble yet filling.
Pieds Paquets a la Marseillaise (Lamb Feet, Neck, Tripes - Marseillaise style)
As a Cantonese, I particularly identify with the philosophy behind head-to-tail cooking. And to be able to transform the least-used cuts into flavorful bites points to pure genius and superb technique. This is essentially what is on the plate - various parts of the lamb paired with a quenelle of black olive tapenade. All of them are downright delicious.
Starting from 12 o'clock in clockwise motion are slivers of fried lamb feet. These strands, much akin to beef tendons, are collagen heaven. The seasoning is on point and the spice in the braising liquid is exciting. But it is the contrasting textures between the crunchy exterior and the supple, chewy interior that make the dish.
On the right side is a nugget of lamb neck. Evidencing a perfect sear, the crust on the meat is crispy. This is decadently rich and pliable to bite. Moist and supple, the interior of the meat oozes out fat and juices, all of which are preserved despite the long braising process. I also particularly enjoy the relative lack of game flavor, which can be overbearing sometimes.
Next up are strands of tripe. The exquisitely tender texture screams of decadence, no less because of the long braising process. Boasting herbal, wine-laden flavors, the tripe tastes big and broad, gamey even. This is very good, though a bit salty for my liking.
A quenelle of olive tapenade serves as the perfect foil by adding salinity and even spice to the various bites.
The final presentation is a dumpling encased in a thin layer of tripe. Made out of breadcrumbs, shallots, garlic, meat, etc., the dumpling is arguably the weakest of the four. This is because of the mushy, if not soggy, texture. Maybe a bit too much breadcrumbs? That said, the dumpling does soak up a lot of the braising liquid and this makes for a tasty bite bursting with umami.
Lait d'Amande et Sel de Mer(Almond Milk, Sea Salt)
This intermezzo before the dessert is surely interesting. After all, using the astringency from kale and piercing acidity from grapefruit to cleanse the palate is a first for me. The differing flavors between the vegetable and the fruit are moderated effectively by the silky smooth almond milk. Meanwhile, the bitterness from the kale is quite front and center. Novel method aside, this works out so, so well. Cannot really taste the salt though but that is minor.
Nougat Glacé Cannois(Frozen Nougat - Cannes style)
What an incredible dessert. Paired with coulis de framboise and dusted with caramelized almonds, the nougat is downright velvety. Gone is the teeth-breaking hard crunch which is often associated with this confectionery. Instead, the texture is airy and light, evidencing the superb work behind the meringue. Inside the multi-faceted sweetness are preserve citrus peel, candied nuts (pistachios?), almond cream and citrus honey (?). Of particular mention is the duet between the moderating acidity from the berry sauce and the nuttiness of the cream. This is a truly mesmerizing dessert because of its simple yet flawless execution, the lightness of which is particularly commendable. What a fitting end to the meal.
This is the fourth dinner in the series now and the second for me. Just like the Halibut Feast, La Riviera is just as memorable. This is simple food that is devoid of fussy presentations but is replete with maximum flavor. Such a cooking philosophy fits squarely with the Southern France Provençal style, the seeming simplicity of which appeals to me. The food is not ostentatious, but the underlying technique is unquestionably apparent. Though this is my second time eating the food prepared from ALT, I feel just as deeply privileged as my first time tasting the food created from those 3 pairs of magical hands. Long may this series continue. (2/26/2017)