Beer
Back to basics. This is an IPA-focus issue.
Shmaltz Brewing Company Bittersweet Lenny's R.I.P.A. on Rye (2016 Edition), ABV 10.0%, Imperial IPA, New York
This is a special beer as it is only once every two years. In this particular version, the beer is aged in Jim Beam Rye Whiskey barrels. The brew pours a rusty copper color with a thick foam that recedes slowly with thick amount of lacing. As expected, the nose is concentrated and reeks of whiskey sweetness, supported by a cast of caramels, spice, rye, pine, oak and vanilla. This is a particularly grain-heavy nose. The palate is surprisingly slick and the carbonation does help cut through the layered richness of this "winter warmer". Remarkably, despite the high strength, the alcohol does not bite. The flavor reflects the nose and boasts plenty of hops, bitter oak, spice, burnt caramel and coconuts. The brew then winds down in an earthy, tanninc, and smoky note. It is the balance in this brew that impresses me the most. From the nose to the alcohol strength to the palate, everything is in perfect proportion and nothing seems out of place. Strong, hefty, but still immensely drinkable. Fabulously well-brewed beer. 94
Sixpoint Brewery Resin, ABV 9.1%, Double IPA, New York
Probably one of my favorite beers that comes in a can, and no less because of the high alcohol strength. This brew pours a deep golden color with orange tinge. The head is quite frothy and recedes slowly with plenty of lacing around the rim. On the nose, the floral hoppy nose is especially concentrated. And with it comes malty sweetness, citrus, tropical fruits, pine cones and spice. On the palate, the brew is weighty but remains effortless because of the carbonation. The heat from the alcohol is quite apparent though. Flavors of caramel, pines, resins, lemon zest and spice dominate the core. The brew then finishes in a boozy, bitter manner with plenty of resinous sweetness. Very good effort and immensely drinkable, no less because of the combination of opulent sweetness and the hoppy profile working together to create balance. 92
Grey Sail Brewing of Rhode Island Captain's Daughter, ABV 8.5%, Double IPA, Rhode Island
Incredible freshness and profile. The beer pours an apricot golden color with a moderate layer of head, the retention of which is outright incredible as it never recedes. Brewed with pilsner malts and flaked oats, this double IPA certainly masks its potency. On the nose, the beer opens up with a fruit-forward nose as the hops take a backseat, as is the case with many Western style IPA's. Copious amounts of pineapples, mangoes, blood oranges dominate the core as they are supported by tertiary notes of floral hops and pine. On the palate, the beer yields very fine carbonation and no indication of alcohol, along with subsequent heat, whatsoever. Grapefruit and citrus zest comes to the fore as the beer then rounds out in dank hops, toasted grains, coriander and graham crackers. The brew then fleets away in a chewy finish, leaving behind a trace of hoppy, zesty bitterness that just lingers on, almost like that of Earl Grey tea. This is truly remarkable, no less because of the alcohol strength being hidden around the smattering of complex flavors. To me, however, the impressiveness in this brew lies in the texture and the very delicate balance between sweet and bitter. Simply world class. 96
Knee Deep Brewing Hoptologist, ABV 9.0%, Double IPA, California
Have had good experiences from the Knee Deep Simtra and so I picked up another one of their offerings. The Hoptologist pours a dark orange amber color with a very thin head which leaves behind a delicate lattice as it recedes. The beer certainly asserts itself as a heavyweight on the nose as it boasts plenty of dank hop aromas, pine cones, cedar, dried herbs, and finally some grapefruit zest. On the palate, the beer has an oily body that is accentuated by fine delicate carbonation. Despite the strength, the alcohol does not bite at all. So bonus points for that. Flavor-wise, the palate reflects the nose and yields plenty of pine cones, floral hops, herbal tea, citrus zest and fresh cut grass. The bitter hoppiness does not end there as it extends from start to finish which lasts for over 30 seconds. This is undeniably well-crafted, and definitely one for the hop heads as it is easy drinking despite the strength and pungent hop aromas. But for me, I would prefer more freshness and balance, especially from the citrus tones. 86
Ishikawa Brewery Tama no Megumi Bottle Conditioned Pale Ale, ABV 5.5%, American Pale Ale, Japan
Just like the Ozeno, this brew pours an amber copper color with plenty of sediment, no less because the beer is bottle conditioned (bottled January 2015). Head is of a foamy, creamy and thick. It recedes rather slowly and leaves behind plenty of cobweb lacing around the glass. The nose of this brew is very clean, almost like that of a lager even. There is plenty of rice, pineapples, mangoes, sweet citrus and even a touch of brett. Hops are pretty much non-existent which is surprising. Just like the nose, the palate is clean and linear while the carbonation is delicate and smooth. There are plenty of sweet caramel malts, floral honey, citrus, tropical fruits, fermented rice, and just the faintest touch of hops. Finish is just as forward and direct, leaving behind a touch of fruit-laden sweetness. While I struggle hard to see this as a pale ale (given the lack of hop characteristics), I enjoy this a lot nonetheless because of the cleanliness. Some people may argue this as a lack of character, but I see the beer as a cross between Japanese lagers and west-coast style IPA's. Both are crisp, direct and boast plenty of fruits. And this is what the brew excels at. 93
Ryujin Shuzo Ozeno Yukidoke "IPA", ABV 5.5%, American IPA, Japan
This is one of my favorite beers although it is somewhat uncommon. It pours a dark copper color with a thin white head (along with sediment and lees) that dissipates rather quickly. On the nose, the brew is concentrated and yields plenty of citrus, green tea, grapefruit zest, caramel malts and coriander. Hops are on the floral side. Very vibrant. The palate is where this beer showcases its strength. Bottle-conditioned and brewed at Ryujin Shuzo (龍神酒造), this beer is made with the same water as the brewery's eponymous sake Ozeno Yukidoke (尾瀬の雪どけ). As the name suggests, this water is collected from melted ice and is on the soft side. As such, the structure and the effervescence are incredibly delicate. Just like the nose, there are flavors of tangerine, citra hops, brown sugar, spice and brett. The beer then ends in an astringent finish, leaving behind a hoppy pucker. Incredible balance with remarkable crispness that makes the brew all the more refreshing. Superb stuff. 92
Sapporo Breweries Premium Black, ABV 5.0%, Dark Lager, Japan
Premium or not, this beer reminds me yet again why I am not a fan of Japanese rice lagers. Brewed with roasted malts, hops and rice, the beer pours a dark auburn, almost black color with a thin frothy head which dissipates rather quickly. Lacing is minimal. On the nose, the brew is particularly light and smells of lemon-scented dish soap, rice, iodine, coffee and just the faintest of caramel sweetness and hops. Not too pleasant and lacks concentration. On the palate, carbonation is overpowering which removes body and structure from the brew itself. It is almost like drinking carbonated, malt-and-hop-flavored soda which packs a ton more calories than the kid-friendly version. Or the frothy bubbles from said dish soap. Either way, the beer then ends in a weirdly astringent note that leaves a mouth-puckering, bitter finish.
I can imagine myself drinking this only on two occasions: 1) if I am slugging this during drinking games and making terrible decisions, and 2) if I hate my life and there is absolutely nothing else inside the fridge. There are too many good domestic craft beer for the same price in this country to choose from instead. Avoid it like the plague. 65
Sake
Born Chogin 【梵：超吟】(ABV 16.0%, Seimai-buai 20%, Brewed in 2015-11), Fukui Prefecture
It has been a while since I have had ultra premium sake, and what a bottle this is! It is, after all, the sake gifted to the Japanese Imperial family during Masako and Crown Prince Naruhito's marriage in 1993. Brewed with yamadanishiki rice hailing from Hyogo Prefecture (兵库县) "A district", in-house yeast and underground water 184 meters below, the sake is then aged for 5 years at -8 degrees Celcius. The stringent polishing ratio at 20%, coupled with the slow and cold aging process, makes for a koshu (古酒) that boasts incredible depth. Ergo, this bottle, which I have hand carried form Hong Kong, is decanted for 3 hours before drinking.
This sake pours a crystal clear color with light golden tinge and very thick long legs. Appearance-wise, it resembles that of a young bourbon-barrel matured whisky. The nose is anything but. Pungent, concentrated and powerful, the delicate aromas just leap out from the glass. There are layers upon layers of cedar wood, jasmine flowers, peaches, hay, dried apricots and even a touch of vanilla. On the palate, the sake is exceptionally viscous, full even, and boasts plenty of power yet light in weight. Such a profile almost reminds me of the ethereal Burgundies from the likes of Leroy and Leflaive - robust yet effortless. Flavors of bananas, peaches, Fuji apples, toasted nuts, white flowers and hay dominate the core. The finish is incredibly long, lasting almost 45 seconds. The sake then ends in a whisper of malted rice sweetness and alcohol heat. This is beautiful beyond words. 98
Wine
2013 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot (Rogue), Chassagne Montrachet, Burgundy
The wine is popped and decanted for a good 3 hours before drinking. At first it is quite closed but opens up after a while. The wine pours a light reddish color with a brickish orange rim and thick long legs. On the nose, the wine consists primarily of red fruits, licorice, cigars and leather. It does lack a bit of weight and concentration. On the palate, the wine meets first with delicate streak of acidity, followed by an opulent profile of raspberries, strawberries, spice, smoke and plenty of oak. There is certainly an understated rusticity, ergo power, in the wine, most likely because of the oak used. Finish is of medium length with a distinct cut, almost like that of a razor. Tannins still a bit abrasive and I can certainly see it getting better. However, while this is charming and delicate, I find the lack of power an issue. 86
2003 Hospices de Beaune Meursault 1er Cru Charmes Cuvee Albert Grivault Louis Jadot, Meursault, Burgundy
Had great experience with the 2002 and so I purchased another 2 bottles of the 2003. This is a hot year wine and it definitely shows in the profile. This Meursault pours a beautifully advanced golden color with thick long legs, almost like that of a mature Sauternes, no less because of the maturity of the fruit. On the nose, the bouquet is concentrated and quite evolved as well, as the color suggests. It consists mainly of lemon curd, honey, buttered biscuits, autumn autumn spice, caramelized apples, and even a touch of lemon marmalade. The palate is fat and oozing with richness, with a beautiful streak of minerality running down the core to maintain balance. Much like the nose, there are honeyed biscuits, butter, lemon zest, cinnamon and nutmeg. Just a touch of acidity and oak kick in to maintain balance, which are then followed by the prickly alcoholic heat. The finish is long and the wine ends in a drying, mineral-laden manner. Enjoyable premier cru Meursault that displays the pedigree and is drinking beautifully now. Would score more points if the heat is tamed a notch and more fruit/acidity is present. 90