Beer
Baird Beer Wabi-Sabi, ABV 6.0%, American Pale Ale, Japan
Famous for their bottle-conditioned brews, this Japanese brewery creates a twist to the classic American Pale Ale in this offering. Pouring an opaque apricot brown color with a thin off-white head, the brew yields plenty of sediment as it is unfiltered and double-fermented. On the nose, the beer hits hard with caramel, pineapples, grass, biscuit, musk and plenty of green tea, sencha (煎茶) to be exact. I do not pick up any wasabi at all as the name suggests. On the palate, the beer is very lively, with fine effervescence and a refreshingly linear structure. Flavors of herbs, more green tea, raisins, black pepper and malts come to the fore. I particularly enjoy the combination of bubbles and the tannic grip of the green tea leaves. The beer then ends in a rather sweet note, a la Belgian-quad-like caramels and dried fruits, coupled with an astringent, herbal kick. Very interesting brew indeed, and it definitely works. At least, this is better than Dogfish Head's Rosabi, a similar creation by the Delaware brewery. 85
Greenport Harbor Brewing Hopnami, ABV 9.4%, Double IPA, New York
Bought at the brewery in full size growler. Brewed with four kinds of hops under rotating availability, this incredibly fresh brew pours a hazy amber color with minimal head and delicate lacing. On the nose, the beer yields plenty of natural sweetness and citrus freshness. Citrus rinds line the core, which is supported by a cast of mangoes, resin, pine, fresh cut grass and just the slightest touch of funky hops. Structure-wise, the beer delivers fine effervescence and the alcohol does not bite a single bit, nor is there any alcoholic heat. The palate, which is comprised of tropical fruits, citra hops, malts, honey biscuit and spice, reflects the nose and is on the sweeter end of the spectrum. Finish is quite long and the brew ends in a vibrant, grassy and honeyed finish. This is a very easily drinkable and enjoyable DIPA, the alcohol of which is very well hidden. Dangerous slope indeed. 88
Maine Beer Company MO, ABV 6.0%, American Pale Ale, Maine
Where do I even begin? This is an incredible brew, on par with the much-fabled Lunch and the legendary Dinner. Just like Captain's Daughter from Rhode Island Brewing Company, MO is very much a Western-style pale ale. It pours a hazy straw orange color with a respectably thick, foamy head. The froth recedes slowly and leaves behind delicate lacing along the sides of the glass. On the nose, the brew predominantly yields concentrated aromas of citrus, from oranges to tangerines to grapefruit. It is accompanied passion fruit, pineapple, malt crackers, floral herbs and just a touch of pine and hoppy bitterness in the end. So incredibly fresh. Thick, racy and fine in texture, the palate reflects the nose and is just as vibrant and fresh. Flavors of citrus and tropical fruits line the core, which is supported by a backdrop of pine cones and floral hops. Finish is lengthy and refreshing as the beer ends in a mouth-puckering note. Where this bottle picks up points are the incredible balance and restraint shown towards the hop bitterness. Hoard up and drink fresh. 95
Wine (and plenty of it this time...)
1964 Fratelli Minuto Barolo Riserva Speciale, Langhe, Piedmont
Got this for 60 USD, which is somewhat of an impulse buy to try some very aged Barolo from a legendary vintage and a maker oft compared to the likes of Gaja. This is the first wine I have ever had that is this old, let alone one where the winery exists no more. Surprisingly, the cork came out in one piece despite the age. The bottle is not decanted, for fear of disintegration, but given a good 2 hours to let the wine stretch its legs. It pours a garnet, brick orange color with incredibly long, uniform legs and considerable amount of bricking. It is somewhat cloudy even. On the nose, the wine sings beautifully with a thickness that is redolent of properly aged Bordeaux. Tertiary at core, the concentrated bouquet yields plenty of musk, burnished leather, sous bois, truffles, smoked meats, macerated cherries, thyme and tobacco. Voluptuous, intense and masculine in stature, the generous palate mirrors the nose and certainly vouches for the pedigree and the vintage. Mild acidity attacks first, followed by finely integrated but once-grippy tannins. Flavors of sour cherries, anise, burnished leather, old books, tar and tobacco dominate. As time goes on, the muskiness and acidity blow off a bit and the wine gains in richness. Finish is very long for a wine that is 52 years of age, lasting almost half a minute. The juice then ends in a licorice-laden, intensely smoky and slightly acidic note. This is my first Barolo, and the first red I have ever tasted aging 50 years and more. Without much experience to compare with, I still find the wine immensely enjoyable, no less because of the price quality ratio but also because of the old-school, traditionalist approach (for example, seeing very little oak). Very few producers do it like that these days for sure. What an incredible find. 92
That mesmerizing brick orange, cherry color.
1998 Domaine Latour-Giraud Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, Meursault, Burgundy
Lucky to have another Meursault Charmes from another producer to compare against the Jadot version. This Charmes pours a deep golden color akin to that of sherry-oaked whiskies. On first whiff, the wine is quite angular with quite a few harsh edges, most notably in acidity and oak. With time (around 3 hours), the nose starts to unravel itself into a beauty. Honeysuckle, white peaches, lemon curd, oak chips, vanilla, nutmeg and pecans all come in layers. On the palate, the wine reflects the long legs and is adequately viscous. Despite its fat and juicy profile, there is more than adequate acidity and minerality to prevent it from being too cloying. In fact, the wine is quite vibrant despite the age, complete with just a touch of alcoholic heat upon entry. The palate consists of stewed peaches, nectarines, lemon peel, honey and even cloves. Finish is quite long and lasts for over half a minute before the wine ends in a smoky and astringent note. Very beautiful wine that is drinking beautifully now, and certainly shows much better balance and finesse than the Jadot Meursault Charmes. Only gripe is that there is sediment, much like spent tea leaves, towards the end. 91
@La Compagnie attending the Nuits St. Georges Burgundy social.
2011 Chanson Père et Fils Nuits St. Georges, Nuits St. Georges, Burgundy
First of the pack and featuring whole cluster maturation, this is a village wine with just a touch of age. It pours a light ruby color with a purple rim and moderate legs. Nose is somewhat expressive, displaying primary notes of mint, stewed cherries, game, and strawberry jam. Oak is kept on the down low. On the palate, the tannins are surprisingly still quite restless, abrasive even. There is adequate acidity to keep things in check. Taste-wise, the wine displays a profile of smoked meats, sous bois, black berries, smoked meats, and plenty of mushrooms. Fruit is ripe and the wine is actually on the jammier, sweeter end of the spectrum. The juice then ends in a smoky and very tannic finish, like . Interesting to say the least, as this is quite atypical of the pinot fruit. A truly masculine wine that shows too much power and not enough finesse and charm for me. 85
2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers, Nuits St. Georges, Burgundy
Arguably the best of the bunch, by very fine margins.
This is from a blockbuster vintage and arguably one of the best producers in the region. At least, they are one of the first houses to practice domaine bottling. The wine pours a deeper crimson with thick long legs. On the nose, the pedigree of the wine is clear. Pungent and concentrated, the bouquet features plenty of smoked meats, barbecue tar, brambles, blackberries, hay, earth, stewed plums, sage and a touch of anise. Palate is voluptuous and incredibly silky despite the young age (obviously, tannins very much integrated at this point). Despite that, the wine still exhibits much power while maintaining lightness on its feet. Taste reflects the nose and comprises mostly of sous bois, hay, and smoked meats as fruit take on the backseat. Finish is quite long and the wine ends in a jammy, spicy note. True to its style, this is a pinot that displays ethereal lightness and finesse. 91
2006 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forets St. Georges, Nuits St. Georges, Burgundy
En magnum, after a couple hours of aeration. Made from a monopole vineyard, the wine is starting to show its age and pours a maroon color with a purplish rim and moderate legs. On the nose, the juice yields plenty of power and concentration as it displays a bouquet of red berries, macerated cherries, barnyard hay, grain, game, burnished leather, Chinese spice and musk. There is a good touch of oak in the end too. The palate is appropriately viscous and lush, while the tannins are still on the way of integrating. Power is undoubtedly there and primary fruit is still very much abashedly in-your-face. Taste-wise, the palate reflects the nose and boats strawberry jam, wood, earth, truffles, leather and cigar box. Finish is very long and the wine ends in an astringent, smoky way. Somehow, the fullness does not carry towards the end and the wine is somewhat thin in the conclusion? I may be wrong. Nonetheless, this is classically NSG in style. 90
1999 Jean-Jacques Confuron Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaboeufs, Nuits St. Georges, Burgundy
Definitely flexing its weight and showing the age, this wine pours a musky ruby color with thick long legs. On the nose, the wine is still somewhat closed. Nonetheless, it still shows notes of burnished leather, licorice, spice, fermented Chinese black beans, game and even salty smoked meats. With time, I finally get a bit of spiced black cherry jam. This wine yields a very rustic and powerful palate, the silky tannins of which are coming in full force. Jammy on the forefront, the palate then evokes tertiary flavors of grape-flavored cough syrup, hay, fermented beans, cigar leaves and a lot of smoked meats. Acidity is surprisingly somewhat muted. Despite the age, the wine is still surprisingly astringent. Finish is very long and lasts over 45 seconds. The wine finally concludes in a smoky and meaty fashion. Very expressive wine, and experience of which is akin to that of eating a juicy, perfectly charred steak. 90
2014 Moreau-Naudet Chablis Pargues "Vielles Vignes", Chablis, Burgundy
The bottle is popped and let sit for a good 3 hours to let the temperature settle and the wine to stretch its legs. As expected from this youthful Chablis, the juice pours a very light straw golden color with medium legs. On the nose, this is just such a typical Chablis - steely, mineral-laden and angularly acidic. There is a definite yet understated power and concentration to the bouquet. With time, it starts to unravel and yields more luxurious notes of stone fruits, honeysuckle, citrus and shellfish. Somewhat surprisingly, despite the laser focus and linearity of the nose, the structure, voluptuous and generous, is anything but. There is even oiliness in the texture, think oil rags on the docks. Upon entry, brazen acidity hits first, which is then followed by a raspy streak of minerality and finally citrus, honeysuckle and wet stones. The juice, quite frankly, resembles liquid steel, one that boasts a razor sharp edge in fact. There is barely any traceable oak. The finish is long and the wine wraps itself up in a shroud of minerals and acidity. This is so classically Chablis, a wine where minerals arguably take precedence over fruit. And to that end, this is a solid example of the style as it encapsulates linearity and directness fully. Drinking window-wise, it may be wise to let this beast sit for a few years to tame its profile down. 90
1992 C.H. Berres Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
The wine is popped and aired for a good 3 hours before consumption. At 24 years of age, this juice surprisingly pours a straw golden color (much like that of bourbon-casked whiskies) with thin legs. On the nose, this is classically German riesling in all aspects - steely, distinctly cut and petrol-tinged. The bouquet, which consists of fresh-cut grass, Granny Smith apples, plasticine, wet stones and honeysuckle, is on the shy side. Likewise, the palate is somewhat thin and shy on fruit, although the mineral backbone and the acidity are both strong and penetrating. Flavors of wet stones, lemon curds, roasted nuts, slate, pineapples and spice are all there. The wine then concludes rather quickly in a smoke-tinged, honeyed fashion. Albeit linear and direct, coupled with the fact that 1992 is not the ripest of vintage, the wine is still enjoyable, and the pedigree apparent. This is simple but lovable, all at the same time. Good stuff. 87
2010 Réyane et Pascal Bouley Monthélie 1er Cru Les Clous, Monthélie, Burgundy
At $19, I really cannot ask for more given the extremely high quality-price ratio, not to mention that this producer is one of the overlooked gems in Volnay. The wine is popped and poured after airing for a good hour. With incredibly long legs, the juice exhibits a purple, light cherry color and a ruby core. The nose is powerful, concentrated yet restrained. With it comes a bouquet of cherries, brambles, forest floor, anise, plums, and a touch of smoke char. Thankfully, the usage of new oak is quite restrained. On the palate, the wine demonstrates powerful strength and medium extraction. There is a streak of minerals along with delicate yet still-non-integrated tannins. Balance again is the key here given the staggeringly bountiful vintage. Just like the nose, cherries line the core of the palate, which is supported by a cast of blackberries, scorched stones, licorice, spice and cigar smoke. Finish is of respectable length and the wine ends in a smoky, astringent note. This is a well-crafted wine, one which showcases the classic Pinot profile. This is drinking well now but will definitely develop in the stellar. The experience definitely reminds me of some of the more masculine, tannic NSG Burgundies. And for this quality at this price? Simply mind boggling. 89
Thanksgiving lineup in Boston.
2001 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
At only 15 years of age, this Riesling is still a relative infant. Nevertheless, upon opening, the cork is slightly molded and corroded already. Thankfully, the wine is not corked or spoilt. The juice pours a golden straw yellow color with thin legs. Given the age, it is surprising to see such lightness in color. Somewhat reserved at first, the nose becomes more expressive with time and offers a bouquet of petrol, plasticine, jasmine, raisins, peaches, honeyed nuts and Christmas nuts. Meanwhile, the structure is rather light yet focused. It is linear at first but becomes more expansive after, yield flavors of raisins, honey, lemon curd, fresh cut grass and grilled pineapples. All the while, the mineral streak and acidity are both there to keep the sugar levels in balance. The finish is superbly long with a gentle touch of smoke. The wine then concludes in a balanced, slightly acidic and spicy tone. This is fantastically crafted wine that shows plenty of balance and nuances. Although it is drinking beautifully now, I still see a lot of years ahead of it. 93
2011 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California
The wine pours a medium garnet color with a rich, ruby color and thick long legs. On the nose, it is forceful and concentrated, evidencing the high levels of extraction from the berries. The wine is intensely smoky and produces a bouquet of sweet plums, potpourri, blackberry jam and sous bois. Frankly, this nose reminds me of a well-crafted Bordeaux from Graves, one that is refined and masculine. Just like the nose, the palate is focused, assertive and unctuous. Tannins are silky and fine. And despite the relative youth, they are well-integrated into the structure of the wine already. This, combined with notes of scorched stones, cigar box, stewed plums and truffles, makes for a very palatable flavor profile. The wine finishes with considerable length and weight and leaves a smoky, astringent kick in the mouth. This is a very atypical Napa cab. But that said, it is still very, very nice. 91
2009 Cain Vineyard & Winery "Cain Five", Napa Valley, California
In short, this wine is a generous, straight-up fruit bomb. Still at its youth, the wine pours a dark purple color with an inky, deep black core and very thick long legs after an hour of aeration. The nose is incredibly jammy, so much so that the fruit is over-extracted by my books. Quintessentially Napa, it yields a concentrated, weighty bouquet of cough syrup, coffee, blackberry jam, sugar plums, star anise, spice and even a hint of soy sauce. This is undoubtedly hot climate stuff. Although the palate is somewhat astringent, the tannins are silky and singing already. The alcohol strength definitely asserts itself as the wine hits the tongue. Just like the nose, the palate offers blackberry jam, boysenberry, chocolate, fresh leather and a heavy dabble of new oak. The finish is of medium length and is on the sweeter end of the spectrum. There is no doubt about the thoughtful and superior craftsmanship behind the juice. Yet although the wine is still youthful and primary and stature, I am baffled by this nonetheless since it is overly opulent and lacks balance and nuances. And coupled with the high price tag (>100 USD), this wine has poor quality-price ratio and I think there are better options out there for the money. 89
2005 Château Rieussec, Sauternes, Bordeaux
En demi-bouteille. The dessert wine pours a dark golden, apricot amber color with unapologetically long legs, no less because of the stellar vintage and abnormally high residual sugar levels. On the nose, the pungent syrup is superbly concentrated and complex. This is a perfect winter warmer. Honeyed nuts, apricots, Christmas dried fruits, marzipan, oak char, citrus oils and vanilla are all there in abundance. Yet despite the multi-faceted offering, every note is in moderation and the nose as a whole demonstrates remarkable balance. The alcohol strength definitely asserts itself through heat as the wine hits the tongue. On the palate, the wine is appropriately viscous and voluptuous. Thickness aside, the wine yields plentiful layers of stone fruits interspersed with spice, smoke, and oak. I also get a hint of roasted pineapples, honey cake, lemon curd and cinnamon too. The wine demonstrates respectable length and offers a gentle wisp of acidity to keep things in check. The wine then concludes in a spicy and smoky tone, almost like that of a sherried whisky minus the heat. This is an incredibly finessed and powerful wine that is just starting to show its class and weight. Although it is drinking beautifully now, there are still plenty of years ahead of it to tame the restless spices. Mesmerizing effort. 94