Beer
The Alchemist Focal Banger, ABV 7%, American IPA, Vermont
Now is the time when one commonly finds stouts and porters of all sorts in beer stores. It is, after all Christmas. So imagine my surprise when I am able to pick up a freshly-brewed IPA at a local bar, let alone one that hails from the legendary The Alchemist (famous for the Heady Topper). This is legendary; and for my money, no IPA is better than this, barring special editions from Maine Brewing and a select few from Russian River Brewing. Scoring full marks on Beer Advocate, this brew pours a hazy, golden orange color with a thick, wheat-colored head. A simple waft of the aromas evinces the pedigree of this famed brewery. On the nose, this beer is extremely remarkable for its balance. Hops are on the forefront, which are then mixed with delicate aromas of pine, grapefruits, mangoes, fresh-cut grass, passion fruit, lemon zest and even a touch of spice and malts. Everything is in perfect balance and the seemingly disjointed notes just combine well to created a multi-faceted, pungent nose minus the oft-found rusticity of IPA's. In particular, I enjoy the citrus-forward profile of the nose, thanks to the usage of Citra and Mosaic hops. On the palate, the beer is just in another class of its own too. Extremely fresh and boasting lively effervescence, the beer is extremely light, creamy even but without the heaviness. Just like the nose, the flavor profile is just as balanced and boasts even more citrus and other tropical fruits. The sweetness from the citrus notes, coupled with the biscuit malts, resinous pines and a backdrop of floral hops, truly creates a spectacular tasting experience. The finish is just as impressive as well and the beer finishes in a complex manner, leaving a significant hoppy and fruity kick in the mouth. This is a fruit bomb, and one that is impeccably balanced at that. From the nose to the palate to the flavor profile, this brew just exudes class and finesse. If there needs to be a yardstick to judge all IPA's by, this would be one of them. A true spectacle. 100
Revolution Brewing Company Anti-Hero IPA, ABV 6.5%, American IPA, Chicago
The beer pours an opaque orange color with a thick foamy head that leaves delicate lacing on the glass. On the nose, the brew is rather lean and yields muted nose of dishwasher soap, floral hops, pine cones, biscuit malts, watermelon, citrus zest and mint. It is undoubtedly fresh. The palate, despite this being a very fresh (less than a week old) can, comes off a slightly clunky and heavy. For despite the bubbles, the weight of the grainy malts lingers. On the palate, the beer is quite bitter and yields plenty of pines, earthy mulch, caramel malts, herbs, resin and just the faintest touch of citrus and tropical fruits. The finish is on the shorter end and the beer concludes in an earthy, creamy manner. This is a solid IPA, one that is more geared towards the hoppy, earthy style rather than the fruitier style. Although I prefer the latter, this is still undoubtedly a well-crafted brew that is sure to bring joy to hopheads. 88
Sierra Nevada Brewing Company Celebration Ale (2016), ABV 6.8%, American IPA, California
This is even better than the 2015 version because of a more balanced profile. As the name suggests, this IPA pours a clear, dark amber color with a thick layer of frothy, cream-colored head. The foam recedes very slowly and leaves behind delicate lacing. On the nose, this brew boasts plenty of earthy hops, followed by notes of pines, herbal resin, Christmas spices (nutmeg and cinnamon) and even some pineapple. There are just the faintest touches of bready malts and citrus zest in the end. On the palate, the beer is thick, creamy and unctuous, no less because of the medium amount of carbonation. The flavor profile reflects the nose and yields plenty of Christmas fruits, pine cones, baking spices, chestnuts, and resin, all of which are tied together within a backdrop of a earthy hops. The finish is rich, creamy, and has the right amount of hoppiness to balance out the slick, malty sweetness. A true hybrid between Belgian-dominated winter beers and IPA's, this brew has what it takes to provide an enjoyable sipping experience near the warmth of a household fireplace. 92
Grimm Artisanal Ales Sumi Ink, ABV 13.5%, Imperial Stout (Bourbon Barrel Aged), Brooklyn
The weather is getting cold and now is the perfect time for aged imperial stouts. As the name suggests (i.e.: sumi, or squid, ink), the brew pours a coffee-like, jet black color with very minimal head. On the nose, the bourbon is immediately apparent and the brew is quite boozy. With time, the beer yields a more complex bouquet of toasted oak, coffee, plenty of vanilla, spice, roasted nuts, and potted cream. In other words, it is quite an unapologetically dessert beer. The structure of the brew is thick and unctuous, with a muted effervescence to keep things interesting. Despite the alcohol strength, there is no discernible heat upon entry. On the palate, the vanilla and coffee flavor profile is intense and generous. This is supported by a cast of candied nuts, licorice, charred oak barrels, toasted marshmallows, graham crackers and chocolate. Surprisingly, the bourbon profile is not as strong on the tongue. The beer then concludes in a smoky, slickly sweet finish. This is a beautiful brew, and just what I would expect from a bourbon barrel aged stout. Sublime stuff. 95
Rio Brewing Uijin Yuzu, ABV 6.5%, Belgian Blonde Ale, Japan
Made in the style of Belgian fruit beers, this blonde ale is brewed with barley malts and infused with yuzu citrus hailing from Kochi prefecture (高知県) in Japan. The bottle is then re-fermented and bottle-conditioned. As such, the beer pours an opaque straw color with plenty of sediment and a frothy white head. On the nose, the beer is particularly fragrant and boasts plenty of citrus, bread, tropical fruits, fresh cut grass and white flowers. This profile almost reminds me of a well-crafted session IPA. On the palate, the beer is somewhat thin in stature despite the creaminess. Nonetheless, the flavor is on point and is geared towards a citrus-dominated profile. There are plenty of floral hops, sweet malts, and grass in the background. The beer then ends in a short, Pilsner-like finish. I do not know what it is with Japanese beers but they are all quite mediocre. This one in particular lacks the piercing astringency and the lushness I come to expect from a Belgian blonde ale. In fact, it is almost just like a watered down version of the basic Duvel with more citrus added in. Not the best I have had for this style. 83
Wine
1998 Maison Alex Gambal Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers, Nuits St. Georges, Burgundy
The wine is popped and let air for a good 2 hours before drinking. It pours a light ruby color with medium legs and just the slightest touch of brick orange hue, no doubt because of the 18 years inside the bottle. On first pour, the wine boasts a concentrated, perfumed nose, with plenty of cherries (medicinal cherries), strawberries, cassis, eucalyptus, spice, damp earth and cigar smoke dominating the core. Oak is kept on the down low to let the fruit shine. On the palate, the wine wrestles with great intensity. Alcoholic heat is rather sharp but that does help the wine produce an expansive structure. Tannins are silky and well-integrated while the acidity is racy enough to provide comforting balance. The flavor profile reflects the nose and yields, in typical NSG fashion, plenty of smoke, leather, sous bois intermixed with a fleshy, fruity foreground. This juice particularly excels in the finish as the length and complexity are both quite impressive. The wine then finally concludes in a smoky kick. Albeit Alex Gambal may not be a famous producer, for a wine that produces such high value, this is very enjoyable, especially with a little bit of age, and is definitely a bargain buy. 88
1998 Chateau Gloria, St. Julien, Bordeaux
At 18 years of age, this wine is drinking at its peak now. Popped and aired for 3 hours before drinking, the wine pours a dark ruby color with a garnet core and long legs. On the nose, the bouquet is concentrated and quite perfumed as the tertiary notes are starting to become more pronounced. The bouquet consists primarily of blackberries, cherries, cigars, sous bois, and spice. There is a even a touch of leather in the background too. On the palate, the wine yields impressive structure as the silky, well-integrated tannins lend weight and substance. Acidity is kept in check and the alcohol does not bite. Just like the nose, there is still plenty of fruit left but the wine is starting to reveal its tertiary characteristics. The finish is just as complex and the wine ends in an earthy, smoky tone. This is a well put-together effort, though for me, the finish is a tad short. This is at its peak right now and may hold for a couple more years. However, I do not see it improving anymore with time. So drink up. 88
1990 Champagne Desbordes-Amiaud Cuvee Melodie, Epernay, Champagne
This is the flagship eponymous wine made from the proprietor of the estate - Elodie, the daughter of Marie-Christine. Made mostly of Pinot Noir grapes hailing from the Premier Cru vineyards of Ecueil, this champagne pours a golden, apricot color with thick long legs and very fine bubbles. Despite the 26 years of age, the wine is still quite lively with a constant, fine stream of beady bubbles. As expected, the nose shows plenty of age. With time, the muskiness blew off and the wine unravels itself generously. Particularly honeyed, the bouquet yields plenty of Christmas fruits, honey roasted nuts, marzipan, sugarcane, mint and spice. There is even a touch of burnished leather and earthy truffles in the background. On the palate, the wine is surprisingly robust given the age. Effervescence is fine and the mousse is very detailed, in part because of an easily-discernible streak of minerality running through. While acidity is low, there is enough of it to keep things balanced and fresh. Just like the nose, the wine has a somewhat honeyed profile on the palate too. This is supported by notes of leather, nuts, dried fruits and eucalyptus. The champagne then ends in a long, complex finish with a smoky, honeyed profile to boot. This is very beautiful; and most certainly, a bargain buy. 92