Beer
Cambridge Brewing Company Arquebus, ABV 12.0%, Barleywine Ale, Massachusetts
Absolute beast of a barley wine that is 100% bottle conditioned. The ale is brewed with malted barley, local honey, and fresh Semillon grape must. It is then finished in French oak white wine barrels. Frankly, this reminds me a lot of Dogfish Head's Noble Rot, except it is a lot sweeter and much more substantial in alcohol strength and body. The beer pours an amber golden color with a thin head but plenty of lacing. On the nose, the vinous profile is especially strong. The bouquet is concentrated and consists of wet stones, caramelized peaches, roasted malts, dried apricots and plenty of honey. The palate is viscous and complex, with just the right amount of carbonation and barely any heat despite the strength. Flavors reflect the nose and mostly consists of white flowers, honeysuckle, apricots and plums. The end is dominated by oak and the brew finishes with just the right mixture of tartness and sweetness. I have had many barrel-aged brews in the past, but this is definitely one of the more memorable ones. It is rich yet it feels so effortless, not to mention the lack of any perceptible alcohol heat. Fabulous stuff. A must seek for those who love this style of brew (and those who like Belgian Trappist ales too). 93
New Belgium Brewing Citradelic, ABV 6%, American IPA, Colorado
The beer pours a thick foamy head with minimal lacing and a golden orange color. Carbonation is light. On the nose, as the name suggests, the brew boasts plenty of citrus - oranges, tangerines, lemons, limes, you name it. Beyond these primary fruit flavors comes a mixture of floral hops, honey, malt and biscuits. There is some funk in there too. On the palate, the structure is assertive but rather soft for an IPA. Alcohol is on the light side as well. This is a refresher for sure. Just like the nose, the flavors are dominated by even more citrus and a touch of malts. The beer then ends in a restorative finish with just the faintest touch of bitterness to remind you it is an IPA. So enjoyable and so easily drinkable in the summer heat. 85
2014 Aaron Burr Cidery "Appinette", ABV 8.3%, Cider, New York
Purchased this bottle during my summer trip in the Catskills region. Utilizing a blend of 30% Finger Lake Traminette grapes and 70% Orange County apples, this cider pours a deep, cloudy golden color with hints of amber and fine, delicate effervescence. On the nose, this cider is rather vinous and displays notes of toasty brioche, caramelized apples, peaches, rosemary, rosewater and mint. This is quite atypical of a cider but is expected nonetheless given the presence of grapes in the blend. On the palate, the mousse is stupendously delicate and caresses the cavity like an aged champagne - soft, beguiling yet full of unspoken power. Surprisingly, the flavor profile is dominated by a mineral backbone which is supported by a tertiary cast of grapefruit, apples, stone fruits and lychee. The cider then ends with the faintest touch of smoke and astringent, lingering, mineral-laden finish. From the nose to the palate, the cider has such a unique signature, and it certainly registers to me as more of a blanc de blanc champagne than as a cider. This is incredibly well-crafted and delicious, and most certainly worth the price. 180 cases made. 95
Sake
Denshin "Natsu" Daiginjo Nama Sake 【伝心： [夏] 袋吊り大吟醸生酒】(ABV 16.5%, Seimai-buai 50%), Fukui Prefecture
Being a limited seasonal sake, this sake is arguably one of the best value buys I have made lately. From production techniques (shizuku, meaning bag dripped by means of gravity, and daiginjo, rice polishing ratio of at least 50%) to taste profile, this sake well and truly punches above its weight as its price would suggest. The sake pours a clear off-white color with fabulously long legs. On the nose, the bouquet is concentrated and consists of muscat grapes, jasmine tea, melon, white peaches and banana candies. Just as the legs suggest, the structure is unctuous with much sweet viscosity. Flavors of cookie dough, concord grapes, glutinous rice cakes, peach candy and bananas are all there. The finish is slightly smoky with a touch of acidity. As a summer drink, this may be a bit heavy. Nonetheless, for someone seeking a quality sake with a full, rich profile, this may just fit the bill. I personally find this extremely enjoyable with an extremely high QPR to boot (US$ 40). 92
Hakurakusei Tojo Akitsu 【伯樂星：東条秋津山田錦】(ABV 16.0%, Seimai-buai 29%, Brewed in 2016-03), Miyagi Prefecture
Another sake courtesy to M as this is not imported into the States at all. A subject to massive destruction during the earthquakes in Japan, Niizawa Jozoten Brewery (新澤釀造店) needs no introduction as they are famous for the ultra premium sakes "Super 8" (殘響 8). This is a special version of Hakurakusei (伯樂星) which utilizes yamadanishiki rice from the Special Area A in Tojo, in particular, the Akitsu area. It is then brewed with the house strain of yeast. As the stringently high rice polishing ratio would suggest, this sake pours a crystal clear color like that of vodka with very thick long legs. The concentration of the nose is incredible. The bouquet consists mostly of muscat grapes, white flowers, banana candy, shinpaku (米芯白) and cantaloupes. On the palate, the sake is viscous and broad yet possesses clearly defined lines. Much like the nose, the flavors are dominated by white grapes, melons and peaches. The sake then ends with slight alcoholic heat and grape skin aromas. From the nose to the taste profile to the man hours in production, this is one truly fabulous effort. If the Isojiman that I had earlier this year is of any indication (their sakes use the same strain of rice), this one truly reminds me of that brew, if not even slightly better given the improved balance. 93
Wine
2003 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red, Napa Valley, California
Absolutely complex and unquestionably robust. This wine pours a dark garnet, purplish color with very thick long legs, no less because of the 15.1% ABV. This cabernet-dominated proprietary red blend displays the classic Californian nose of red and blue fruits in the forefront, which is supported by a secondary cast of smoke, cigar box, cedar, coffee, truffle and even licorice. Just like the nose, the palate is equally unctuous, the viscosity of which is moderated by finely integrated tannins. I can only marvel at the balance of this wine as the alcohol heat does not really kick in despite the monstrously high strength. Palate displays the archetypal Californian profile of stewed cherries, macerated berries, oak, cigar, vanilla and even Asian spice. The finish is long and the wine ends in a smoky, complex kick. This is undoubtedly a fruit bomb. But nevertheless, the moderate usage of oak, coupled with the balanced extraction levels, imparts unrivaled finesse and class in this bottle. Great stuff from Pahlmeyer in an off-year in Napa. 93
2012 Georges Lignier et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy
This is a classically-styled Gevrey Chambertin in every sense. After being decanted for half a day, the wine pours a dark musky red color with brick orange tints and medium legs, like that of an aged Bordeaux. On the nose, the bouquet yields plenty of cherries, cigar box, sous bois, eucalyptus and damp earth. On the palate, the wine is well-structured with fine but undeveloped tannins. Alcohol is very mellow despite the 13% ABV. Just like the nose, the wine tastes of red fruits, blackberries, plenty of sous bois, truffles, burnished leather and spice. The wine then finishes with a smoky kick and plenty of sous bois. Respectable intensity and concentration throughout. Great price quality ratio to be honest, and a wine that truly reflects the terroir well, one that actually reminds me of Graves in profile, minus the weight. Would definitely improve when the tannins are well-integrated into the wine. But for now, this Gevrey shows aged wine characteristics at such youth. Wow. 90
2010 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis 1er Cru Sechet, Chablis, Burgundy
Chilled, popped and poured in a light, rustic golden color with thick long legs. On the get go, the concentration of the nose is just remarkable. Plenty of citrus, honey, lemon curd, polished stones, and just a touch of gunk. Really refined and vibrant nose. On the palate, mouthwatering acidity hits first. Lushness and checking minerality then follow to keep things in perfect balance. Just like the nose, the palate is mostly comprised of citrus, minerals, wet stones, honeysuckle, and a faint touch of oak. Finish is long and complex with lingering acidity. This really hits the spot and is a fine specimen of the region's style - bright, acidic, plush and well-defined. Despite the relative youth, this is drinking well now. 92