Omakase, the Japanese sushi equivalent to the prix fixe menu in the Western sphere. It has been a fashionable dining trend in the States as of late, with a couple shops opening every year. In New York City, in particular, there are no shortage of options for a traditional, high-end omakase meal. And when I receive word that Chef Yoshihiko Kousaka, who once hailed from Jewel Bako, is to open a new shop in Manhattan, I cannot wait to try. I was not impressed with my visit to Jewel Bako last time, and so I hope I am proven wrong tonight at Kosaka. At 145 USD per head, this places Kosaka in the mid-tier range of the omakase offerings.
Kosaka opened three months ago. The restaurant boasts a small and intimate space, one which includes a sushi bar that sits a maximum capacity of 12 people and four additional behind a black, slate wall. The interior is dimly lit in general but with a brightly lit sushi bar. As far as the decor goes, they are modern, hip and are awash with block minimalistic colors. In essence, this decoration, coupled with a rather quaint dining room atmosphere, does create a somewhat Zen-like moment for the diners. Luckily, the staff does not object to my setting up of the camera, which I am sure destroys the tranquility of the environment. And so I happily snap away.
Taro Potato with Soybean Sauce and Spinach
Our first dish of the night is an amuse bouche of taro potatoes. Here, we get two lumps of taro and blanched spinach. It is certainly surprising to see so much starch in the prelude of the meal. Nevertheless, there are clean flavors here and the potatoes are delicately sweet and soft. The sauce, in the mean time, acts like a goma-ae (胡麻和え) that dresses the bland-tasting but other fresh spinach leaves. This is a simple dish that lets the freshness of the ingredients speaks for itself.
With a short interlude comes the procession of the sushi pieces. In general, the gari (ガリ) here is on the sweeter side with a sharpness burn and distinct brine. Meanwhile, the rice is grainy and has a bite and sweetness to it. It is generally warm and the acidity of the vinegar is not particularly prominent. Throughout the sushi progression, I also notice that the staff wipes my plate clean after every two pieces. This attentive yet non-invasive service is a respectful nod to the finer details in the entire dinner service. Props.
Striped Horse Mackerel - Shima Aji 【しま鯵】
Starting off is the shima aji. Surprisingly, for a fish with high oil content, this fish does not taste fishy at all. Rather, it is tastes meaty with the distinct silver-skinned fish flavors. Oily fish does get oxidized quickly so this taste profile means it is very fresh. As a whole, the fish is on the warm side which matches well with the temperature of the rice. I also like the balance in the ratio between the shari (しゃり) and the neta (ねた), in both proportion and flavor. The rice is not overly acidic and that lets the flavor of the fish shine through. This is a very good start.
King Salmon with Smoked Soy Sauce - Masuno-suke 【マスノスケ】
I am generally not a big fan of the salmon family. Nevertheless, I can spot a well-done specimen easily, and this is no exception. The fish is nicely scored with the skin still on. In addition to the meatiness taste, I also get distinct unctuousness, along with smoke, from the flesh. This fatty texture also accentuates the graininess and the sweetness of the rice, which acts as a suitable foil to the fish. I quite prefer this as the fat is not as in-your-face as some other samples of salmon. Maybe this salmon is aged?
Stone Snapper with Yuzukosho - Ishidai 【石鯛】
I have had a few snappers before but the ishidai is a first for me. On first inspection, it looks like the Chef retains the moisture in the fish quite well. The flesh is white in color with a pinkish tinge on the edges. Despite the appearance, the fish is not fatty at all. Rather, it boasts a decent amount of chewiness, resistance, and tastes clean and meaty. The pinpoints of spice from the yuzukosho (ゆず胡椒) and the acidity from the shiso (紫蘇) also helps accentuate the flavor of the fish. However, the flavor of the rice is dwarfed by the strong flavors here. Nonetheless, I like the compactness of rice in this piece as it reflects the texture of the fish itself.
Japanese Halfbeak - Sayori 【針魚】
Sayori, although commonly found in Asia, is rather rare to find in the City because of its spring-time-only seasonality. Shimmering under the light, the translucent flesh is beautifully cross hatched, brushed with soy and topped with a dab of grated ginger and scallions. Just like the other piece before it, the flavors here are subtle and clean, with the ginger highlighting the freshness of the fish. I also get a hint of oceanic flavor in the flesh too. As the flavor of the fish is rather delicate, I do pick up the acidity in the rice. Good stuff.
Skipjack Tuna - Katsuo 【鰹】
The skipjack tuna found during the spring is called hatsugatsuo (初鰹). Unlike its winter brethren, this tuna possesses a meaty, reddish flesh and lacks the fat lines. Usually, the katsuo is marinated by soaking the fish in soy sauce, a marinating process called zuke (漬). This particular rendition is presented without the curing. Instead, it is topped with ginger scallions and truffle soy sauce. Although the fish is meaty and clean, and frankly quite tasty, the prominent truffle scent masks the delicate flavors of the neta. Also, the fish is noticeably colder than the other pieces. The giant slice also throws the ratio off balance and makes eating the sushi requiring more effort. This is a good rendition of the style, but the accoutrements and execution are left to be desired.
Medium-fat Cut Tuna Belly - Chu-toro 【中トロ】
One thing that often plagues the tuna belly is the sinew that is strewn between the layers. Kosaka’s version, however, lacks these undesirable lines. This truly helps make the chu-toro come across as buttery, supple and deliciously fishy upon mastication. Just the slightest touch of soy is necessary to highlight the freshness. I particularly like the shari-neta balance in this piece. There is not too much rice nor is there too much fish. Also, the temperature of the fish matches that of the rice as well. This is a superb effort.
High-fat Cut Tuna Belly - O-toro 【大トロ】
If the chu-toro is of any indication on the quality of the tuna, the o-toro is tuna belly on steroids. Sourced from the waters around North Carolina, this cut of the fish has even more fat and oils. And of course, it is appropriately delicious. It is nice to see the Chef incorporating more rice as a result to let the acidity and texture cut through the richness of the fish. The temperature is on point as well so the balance is there. Sadly, there is a little bit of sinew upon chewing.
Hokkaido Sea Urchin - Bafun Uni 【馬糞雲丹】
This particular sea urchin, bafun uni in particular, hails from the Kanetachi supplier (かねたち水產) from Hokkaido. The tongues are beautifully golden in color without the slightest sign of melting. Taste-wise, the urchin is cold, mineral-laden, and buttery. So the rice acts as a good accompaniment especially with the graininess in texture. What shines through, however, is the sheet or nori that is used to wrap the gunkan (軍艦) as it is smoky and delectably crisp. While the piece on a whole is tasty, I find the uni too cold; and therefore, the sweet and saline flavors are somewhat muted. I also do not get the sharpness from the wasabi either. Nevertheless, these are moot points as the urchin itself is a very fine sample of this echinoderm.
Salmon Roe - Ikura 【イクラ】
This is the other archetypal gunkan sushi that is served in omakase. Just like the uni gunkan, the seaweed in this piece shines again. The texture in particular matches well with the popping joys of the fish roe, one which is harvested from Alaskan salmon and marinated in-house. I find this ikura extraordinary as it is sweeter and not like those saltier, smokier or over-cured samples often found in other shops. The roe itself is also not aged. This preparation adds a new dimension of flavors as every component to the bite is so balanced and nothing sticks out. Superb.
Cherry Blossom Trout - Sakura-masu 【桜鱒】
What a treat it is to have yet another spring specialty from Hokkaido. The cherry blossom trout is special as it possesses a pinkish colored flesh, much like the color of cherry blossoms. When compared to salmon, its closest cousin, the flesh is meatier and oilier at the same time. Chef Kousaka's rendition of this bite is an excellent one. The temperatures of both the shari and the neta are right and match well together. Meanwhile, when paired with such an oily fish, the graininess and the acidity in the shari truly shine through as the fish takes on a sweetness in the backdrop. A random note - the rice is more tightly packed in this piece. I wonder why that is the case.
Yesso Scallop - Hotate 【帆立貝】
This is one delicious scallop from Japan. Topped with a chiffonade of shiso and sprinkled with salt, the scallop is sliced in half width-wise and layered over the shari, sans soy. The scallop is deliciously sweet and fresh, with the shiso and salinity from the sodium shining through. The texture of the bivalve is very supple, and the shari is done accordingly to reflect that too as it is not as tightly packed as the previous piece. Perhaps it is the Chef's intention to create one effortless, soft bite. While everything is on point, I feel that the scallops can be served at a warmer temperature.
Japanese Seaperch - Suzuki 【鱸】
Yet another highly seasonal treat, and one that is probably the epitome of all shiromi-dane (しろみだね), or white-fleshed fish. After all, it is the beginning of spring and it is time for the seaperch to start storing up fat in preparation for the mating season. Brushed lightly with soy, the fish is very meaty, if not slightly turgid even. The dab of wasabi and the rice help accentuate the delicate the texture. The ratio between the neta and the shari is on point as well. However, the temperature seems to be a bit off as the fish is just too cold, though this may be a result of the arai (洗い) method in which the flesh is shocked in ice water to remove bacteria and excess fat. As far as taste goes, this one tastes very clean and fresh, even more so than the other white-fleshed fishes in the previous pieces.
Baby Red Seabream with Orange and Lemon Foam - Kasugo 【春子】
The kasugo is essentially a baby red sea bream, or madai (真鯛), that is less than 15 centimeters long. From the taste, I am guessing that the preparation involves koujime (昆布〆) as the fish is relatively dry and I can taste a faint kelp flavor. Every piece so far has been grounded in classical preparation techniques until this. This kasugo is presented with a dab of lemon foam squirted from an iSi dispenser. In place of soy, there is salt. The fish itself is very oily, as expected. Therefore, the foam, being ethereally airy and acidic, helps cut through the fat of the fish along with the help of the rice. The fish itself is very tasty and gives off an unabashed oiliness and texture, both of which I find enjoyable in sushi. I also note a detail in the preparation - the flesh is smooth and there are barely any nicks in the fish from the deboning process. If there is one quibble, it is that I find the temperature of the fish a bit too cold.
Tuna Belly Hand Roll with Daikon Pickles and Scallions - Toro temaki 【トロ巻】
Not much to be said here as this is a pretty prototypical sample of a tuna belly hand roll. Essentially, this is a chu-toro tartare wrapped in rice and seaweed along with pickles and scallions. I like how generous the portions are for this particular bite as the tuna just oozes out from the edges. The crisp from the nori and the crunch from the pickles go so well with the mushiness of the tartare. Meanwhile, the scallions just sing in the background while providing just the right amount of sharpness. All these elements are tied together with the sweet, grainy rice. This is simply divine.
Whitespotted Conger Eel - Anago 【穴子】
It is certainly interesting to see saltwater eel being served after the hand roll as the latter usually marks the end of the meal. Nevertheless, the sweetness and the umami eel sauce surely makes sense to serve as a conclusion. The fish itself is first filleted and poached. This cooking process gives it a very supple and soft texture, along with discernible yet edible tiny bones. Needless to say, such an airy, ethereal texture acts as a suitable foil to the grainy rice. Other than a match in textures, the temperatures within the fish and rice match as well. This is a very good rendition of this fish. And it is a sure joy to eat this every time.
Firefly Squid with Tosazu Jelly - Hotaru Ika 【螢火賊】
Feeling excited by the stellar pieces I have had so far, I opt for an additional piece showcasing seasonal specialties. The hotaru-ika, or firefly squid, is a rather rare tane (種) as it is only available during the spring. Presented in gunkan form, the tiny cephalopods are first poached and then topped with a jelly made from mirin (味醂), dashi, yuzu and soy. Boosting a great amount of acidity, the gel is particularly useful in cutting through the unabashed fishiness of the squid ink. Needless to say, the delicate flavor of the rice is lost within the mixture of strong, bold flavors. Nevertheless, the textural contrast does come through. And it is such a joy to get the crisp from the seaweed, the pop from the squid heads and the grainy rice all in one bite. This is fantastic work.
White Miso Soup - Shiro misoshiru 【白味噌汁】
With the omakase finally over, we are presented with the miso soup to close out the meal. There is nothing particularly special here. The broth is of the white variety and is particularly hearty. There are slivers of yuzu zest and ginger to adorn the bold umami flavors. I particularly like the hotness of the soup as it is very fitting for the cold outside.
Sesame Cookie and Yuzu Cream
The second to the last bite is an immensely buttery cookie boasting a remarkable sesame fragrance. While the cookie is a bit dry for my liking, the yuzu gel is very appetizing. In particular, the cream has just the right amount of acidity to cut through the richness of the butter. The cookie is a bit big for a one-bite, but it does get the job done as a delicately tasting mignardise.
Japanese Mochi with Cherry Blossom Leaf and Cherry Blossom, Azuki (アズキ) Red Beans
Despite this not being a sushi, it may well be the most interesting piece I have had tonight. I am not a big fan of red bean desert derivatives. But this is quite something. The mochi itself is made from actual glutinous rice instead of glutinous rice powder commonly found in other mochi's (think ice cream mochi). As a result, the outer shell is a layer of beautifully translucent rice, which although mushy, are discernible to the grain upon chewing. The red beans encased within is rich, earthy and not too sweet, while the cherry blossom adds the extra bit of salinity to provide lightness. I have never had mochi done this way before. But this dessert certainly has an intricate presentation and delectable flavors. What a great way to end the meal.
In general, this meal exceeds expectations in terms of ingredient quality, execution and service. I particularly appreciate the diverse selection of seasonal items found throughout the omakase, of which the point should aim to reflect the periodicity of nature. Although the pacing is a bit quick, I still have enough time to settle in between the pieces. Throughout the meal, I notice that other diners do get pieces with other neta from mine. One in particular got shiro ebi (白海老). Another even got the prized kamatoro (カマトロ)! It is as if the selection of fish is under the whim of the Chef. I am not sure the reason behind this disparity. However, judging purely on the quality of the pieces I have had, I think the preparation is excellent and the sushi at Kosaka is on par with some of the best the City has to offer so far. I will definitely come again. (4/5/2016)