Going to shift things up and write about a particular dish, rather than a restaurant review. An ode to savory greatness, I should say. After all, much can be found online easily, from Yelp to blogs to the media, about Scarpetta. It is an institution; and the tomato and basil spaghetti is arguably its crown jewel, a combination flavors that I simply cannot find elsewhere. Needlessly to say, it is love at first bite.
Competition in the food industry in New York is tough. It is an environment where eaters are inundated, if not spoilt, with fancier, more complex choices. Red-wine braised octopus fusilli. Sea urchin cream spaghetti. Or even agnolottis or raviolis that come in all shapes and all types of filling. These all scream of posh; and when this plain looking tomato basil spaghetti is juxtaposed with them, its austerity is all the more apparent. Perhaps it is the harmonious simplicity that lets it stand out from the rest. And so over the years, I find myself coming back time and time again, just to order this plate of carbs adorned with a viscous red sauce and basil ribbons.
Where do I even begin? The pasta itself is tubular in shape and is of just the right thickness. Not too thin to be considered vermicelli, and not too thick either to be considered bucatini. Giusto. The pasta is cooked al dente with a delicate chewiness to it. It is just so incredibly fresh. The sauce – unctuous, rich but not overly cloying. The deep flavors surely highlight the ripeness of those in-season plum tomatoes (or maybe even some San Marzano ones in the base?). I also get spice from the pepperoncino flakes, woodiness from the basil and astringency from the garlic. Combined together, the sauce is a smattering of uplifting acidity, fruity sweetness and sharp spice. All parts are in harmonious balance. It is simple, yet so complex at the same time. And this makes every bite such pleasurable joy.
Scarpetta’s spaghetti is a pure and unpretentious dish, yet it is one that is executed flawlessly and cooked with soul. And that, to me, is what cooking should be about.
fuck this is good.