Huddled over on the quaint Sullivan Street lies the newly-opened modern bistro MIMI, the brainchild of the incredibly young, yet ingenuous chef Liz Johnson. Serving classical, rustic French fare with a modern twist, this small bistro seats a mere 30 people despite occupying two floors. Inside the dimly-lit enclave is a displayed of modern architecture with an emphasis on marble, steel and dark, block colors, like those that are often found on the linoleum floors of old, American diners. There is even a small bar at the entrance, decked to the brim with an assortment of top-shelf liquor. The decor, along with the peripatetic chef's daily handwritten menus, undoubtedly boasts an archaic charm and transports the diners back in time. And I for one, am charmed.
First things first about the wine list and drinks. The breadth of the list is admirable, French-heavy in particular, though the prices are on the steep side (around three times retail). Corkage is at an eye-gouging, wallet-cleansing 55 dollars per bottle, sans bottle limitation. This fee places MIMI in line with, if not more so than the those of a moderate number of Michelin eateries. For example, Batard's corkage is at 50 dollars per bottle and they do not slouch in stemware or wine service a single bit.
Without hesitation, I order a vodka martini and am pleasantly surprised at how well-crafted it is. Tito's is used but the bartender is skilled enough to mask the burn. I feel like eating light tonight, and thus gravitate towards seafood dishes.
Khohada - Pomme Dauphine, Horseradish
On first glance, this looks like the offspring of a cross between French and Japanese cuisine. In particular, it looks like a deconstructed nigiri sushi in which the vinegared rice is substituted with a block of tater tot. In essence, the dish consists of a fried potato dumpling with horseradish cream slathered on and topped with a generous cut of khohada (コハダ), or gizzard shad. This is a match in heaven because the richness of the potato goes well with the oils in the fish - first comes the potato fragrance and then the oiliness of the khohada in cascading layers. The dumpling is delectably hot and crispy as well, just like a perfect breakfast tater tot. The horseradish adds just a tampering, astringent touch in the end. Fabulous.
Bluefin Tuna - Chilled Ratatouille, Verbena
Continuing with theme of Japanese inspiration comes another seafood appetizer. The star here is undoubtedly the thick cuts of premium, fresh, sushi-grade tuna of the akami (赤身) cut. The fish itself is deliciously meaty with barely any trace of sinew and just a hint of fishiness. The side ratatouille does not play second fiddle either, as the slabs of roasted aubergine, squash and tomatoes compose to form the rustic accompaniment to the otherwise focused flavors of ocean fish. I, for one, am a big fan of the ratatouille, more so than the fish, as the acidic and earthy flavors make it the perfect counterpoint, the balance, and the unsung hero. Nevertheless, I do not get any of the verbena in the dish. Perhaps it is masked by the other bolder flavors.
Roasted Porcini - Abalone, Foie Gras
This dish is a sharp departure from the relatively light flavors of the previous two. Instead, this dish is decadent and luxurious. Here, thick slices of porcini are roasted and served alongside a bed of sliced abalone, thin slivers of foie and segments of caramelized figs. That heady, concentrated earthy flavors of the porcini, as well as the similarity in texture, make the mushroom a natural compliment to the luscious foie. Together, they do elevate the dish with uplifting richness. For textural contrast, simmered abalone is used to provide a bite to the dish. This is pure genius as abalone boasts earthy flavors too. My guess is that it is simmered in a mushroom stock to boost the flavors in the dish. However, the abalone is slightly too chewy. While the flavor is on point, more braising is required to break down the muscle and make it tender. The dates do give off a subtle sweetness to counteract the richness in almost every part of the dish. Although I like the eye-opening combination of ingredients and flavors, I was looking for a more cohesiveness in textures.
Softshell Crab - Asparagus Ravigote
It is summer so it is crab season after all. This is a simple dish with few components. Three, to be exact. A singular, unlucky molting blue crab is first lightly battered and fried. Below it sits a salad of diced asparagus dressed in ravigote sauce. This dish is cohesive, simple and nice. The crab is rich and particularly delectable with the encapsulated roe. Meanwhile, the acidity in the sauce and spiciness from the Dijon mustard provide much needed balance. The texture of the asparagus is well-preserved and I particularly enjoy the crunch. If I were to pick bones, I would say that the battered crab is a bit too salty for my taste.
Tete de Veau - Roasted Garlic, Honey, Sesame
Probably the weakest link of the night for me as I am generally not a fan of sweet savory dishes (or savory sweet dishes, for that matter). But this is a matter of preference rather than faulty execution. Rather, the dish is cooked superbly as it boasts rich flavors and contrasting textures. The tete de veau (veal head) itself is incredibly tender while the bottom crust is crispy. The honey provides an unctuous, lingering sweetness as the garlic and basil inject points of spice. This is a very special dish as the flavors are so unfamiliar. Despite that, the combination works and I particular enjoy the mix of gamey flavors with the fragrance of sesame. And contrary to the impression the ingredients give, the dish is surprisingly light.
Big Fin Squid - Riz Noir, Bottarga
What an ingenious play on squid 'ink' risotto, as black rice itself is used and there is no trace of squid ink! Yet another simple, but substantial dish consisting only of two components. The "risotto" is cooked al dente with house-made squid broth. As such, the rice screams of oceanic richness and the squid aftertaste permeates. Meanwhile, the squid is beautifully scored, lightly battered, deep fried, and topped with grated bottarga. The texture is bouncy, snappy and the meat bursts with unabashed salinity. This is a play on two different presentations of squid. And damn is it a success. My only complaint? Finishing the whole plate is a bit too rich and filling for me. And I wish there was more bottarga.
As per usual, no dessert for me as I am generally not a fan of sweets. However, the restaurant is nice and sends us some complimentary madelines to nibble on post-meal.
Madeline
Pretty prototypical cookies that screams of buttery sweetness and nuttiness. The texture is a bit off though, as while the interior is soft and supple, the exterior is slightly hard. My guess is that these have been sitting for a while. But I am not complaining over the restaurant's generosity.
Without a doubt, I enjoy my dining experience here tremendously. The technical dexterity and inventiveness of ingredients surely shine through Liz Johnson's creation. All the dishes contain only a few, seemingly disjointed components each. There are even ingredients of Japanese origin, a definite departure from classical French fare. Nevertheless, when they are juxtaposed with each other, excitingly new flavor and textural combinations arise. This itself is a sure testament to Liz Johnson's stellar pedigree and creativity, both of which make for a welcoming and distinctive addition to New York's ever-buzzing yet saturated dining scene. I cannot wait to dine here again and see what other seasonal dishes there are on offer. (6/15/2016)