Beer
Cigar City Brewing Jai Alai, ABV 7.5%, American IPA, Florida
The moment I tried this, I am instantly worried that this relatively easily-found IPA will soon become rare commodity. Boasting a similar profile as Captain's Daughter, Maine Brewing Co's creations and other "West Coast style IPA", this delicious brew may soon disappear quickly once everyone finds out how good it is. Pouring a hazy light amber color with a substantial, lacy off-white head, the beer is extremely refreshing. The bouquet is a fruit-forward, zesty melange of tropical fruits, citrus, pineapples, mangoes, pine cones, hop oils, white flowers and substantial malty, biscuit sweetness. On the palate, the beer is frothy and remarkably light in stature. The alcohol is barely perceptible thanks to the high carbonation. Just like the nose, the flavors are mostly fruits supported by piercing hoppy astringency and balancing sweetness. Finish is very rounded without any harsh edges. There is the slightest touch of bitterness to remind you that this is an IPA. That the beer can go down that smoothly and deliciously is a clear indicator that the beer is as tastily drinkable as it is dangerous! This is well worth stocking up. 96
Sundström Cider - Hudson Valley Lot 15, ABV 8.5%, Cider, New York (2015 Release - 74 cases made)
Picked this up, along with an Aaron Burr, while I was in Catskills last year. Using a blend of 65% Northern Spy, 26% Wild Seedlings, 9% Somerset Redstreak, Harry Masters Jersey and Binet Rouge apples, the cider is then left to ferment spontaneously and 1/3 fermented and aged in neutral oak. This rural, minimal-intervention approach gives the cider a character more akin to that of wine than of beer. It pours a golden champagne color with very a very fine mousse and streams of delicate bubbles. On the nose, the cider is quite yeasty, much like that of a toasty Champagne. With it comes notes of apple skins, mint, nutmeg, celery, honey and white flowers. On the palate, the juice is quite thick and generous as the mousse lifts and elevates the structure. That said, it is by no means cloying as there is enough yeastiness and minerals to keep it fresh and the power rolling. Much like the nose, the flavor profile yields much complexity and boasts plenty of apple skins, lemon peel, crushed rocks, saltwater and honeysuckle. The finish is admirably long, smoky and complex. This is an incredibly stellar cider, the balance of which is particularly impressive. There is just the right amount of acidity, sweetness, salinity and funk to craft a memorable nosing and tasting experience. 96
Avery Brewing Maharaja, ABV 10.2%, American Imperial IPA, Colorado
Compared to the junior cousin, this Imperial IPA pours a darker, ruddier amber. The head is just as thick and the retention of which is just as lengthy. On the nose, the characteristic tropical fruitiness takes a backseat. In its place is a foreground of pine, herbs, resin, spice. Though a tad muted, the background of citrus zest, mangoes, pineapples and peaches is still there. On the palate, the carbonation is not as apparent since the strength of the alcohol makes itself known. That said, the structure is still adequately creamy and rich. Hoppy bitterness is more apparent in this one as the brew rolls with pines, citrus zest, dried flowers, toasted malts and caramel. The finish is lingering and the astringency carries on. For an 10%+ Imperial IPA, this is surprisingly drinkable and is an unquestionably excellent brew. However, I do find the Raja more enjoyable given the balance of flavors, a more refreshing feel and the sweeter profile. 95
Avery Brewing Raja, ABV 8.0% American Double IPA, Colorado
Glad to try this next to the souped-up version the Maharaja. The Raja pours a thick, heavy white colored head that leaves plenty of lacing around the glass. Color-wise, the beer is pale, almost golden orange. On the nose, there are plenty of fresh tropical fruits. In particular, pineapples are right there on the forefront. Then comes a fruity and floral bouquet of passion fruit, citrus, fresh cut grass, stone fruits such as mangoes, pine and the faintest of caramel and hops. On the palate, the structure is generous and the carbonation yields balancing lightness to the otherwise heavyweight. The texture is smooth and the the strength of the alcohol is barely perceptible. The flavor profile, which is mostly dominated by pineapples, mangoes, citrus and light hops, is very similar to the nose as well. The finish is tropical with a malty, sweetish kick to it. This is outstanding, not just for the melange of delicate flavors, but also because of the drinkability and balance as well. 97
Grimm Artisanal Ales Zap, ABV 8.0%, American Double IPA, New York
I am starting to see the appeal of Grimm, who arguably are like Mikkeller in the nomadic brewing, limited release practice. Naturally, I have high expectations for this and it does not disappoint. Pouring a hazy, dark orange amber color, the beer boasts a short, frothy head that leaves plenty of lacing around the edges. On the nose, the IPA yields a primarily fruity bouquet - peaches, mangoes, guavas, citrus zest, white flowers resin and pine. I suspect that this is brewed with plenty of Mosaic, Azacca and perhaps even Citra hops. On the palate, the beer is generous, refreshing yet light in structure. In particular, the prominent carbonation elevates the experience. Taste-wise, this beer boasts the archetypal "West Coast IPA" flavors - guavas, apricots, grapefruit, pineapples, spice and even pepper. I am surprised to see the malt and yeasty flavors take a backseat in this. The finish is rather astringent and dry; and the beer leaves just as easily as from how it comes. Time and time again, Grimm has proven itself to be monumental IPA brewers. And this is a perfect example to showcase that. 95
Wine
2001 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
Happy to find another bottle of von Schubert, and what a wine this is. At 16 years old, it pours a deep, brooding golden color with moderate legs. The bouquet is light in concentration but possesses penetrating deftness and power. It contains copious amounts of quince, sugarcane, honeysuckle, petrol, melon, white flowers and peaches. This is a very mesmerizing nose. On the palate, the wine is a bit thin, no less because of the lower sugar levels (probably off-dry) and alcohol. Nevertheless, there is a racy streak of minerals and acidity to balance out the sweetness. Just like the nose, the palate tastes of stone fruits, jasmine flowers, honeyed nuts, finger limes and crushed rocks. There is just the slightest whisper of oak towards the end. Finish is on the simple side as the wine ends in a smoky, honeyed tone. In all, though the wine lacks a bit of complexity, it has balance, is immensely enjoyable and has outrageously good QPR. Would definitely buy more to enjoy. 90
Vranken "Diamant" Brut NV, Champagne
The wine pours a deep golden color with fine streams of bubbles and moderate legs. On the nose, the 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir Champagne is absolutely lovely. Concentrated and powerful, the bouquet yields plenty of toasty brioche, leather, musk, citrus oils, stone fruits and roasted nuts. Such an oxidative character almost suggests a certain amount of age to this bubbly. On the palate, the wine is low in acidity. Nonetheless, there is adequate balance thanks to the salty minerals that unabashedly hit the tongue. Effervescence is delicate, indicating plenty of life in the bottle. Flavors of bread crust, lemon curd, vanilla and honeysuckle dominate the palate. The wine then ends in a toasty, smoky and yeasty note. Though the wine may be a bit too oxidative for some, it still boasts plenty of balance and character, both of which undoubtedly make this an interesting spectacle. 92
2011 Pierre Morey Pommard 1er Cru Les Grand Epenots, Pommard, Burgundy
From the maker of Leflaive, this wine is definitely no slouch. On the first pour, the wine exhibits an indescribable richness. It pours a inky purple color with clear ruby and long legs. The bouquet consists mainly of red and black fruits, spice, smoked meats, strawberries and a sparing suggestion of new oak. On the palate, the wine is lush, generous and even creamy. For such a young wine, I am surprised to find the tannins so harmoniously integrated already at this stage of its development. Palate harkens the nose and offers primarily red fruits, supported by a cast of gentle spice, pepper, licorice, tobacco and sous bois. The finish is equally enjoyable as the wine leaves with ethereal, smoky raciness behind. This is superb stuff and is drinking well now. In fair honesty, the weight and the approachability of the wine really reminds me of an Aubert. The pedigree is undeniably there. For this price point, it is a steal. Worth seeking out. 92
1992 Haut Bages Averous, Pauillac, Bordeaux
This aged Bordeaux pours a garnet purple color with thin legs and some bricking at the edges, no less because of this less than stellar year. On the nose, the fruit takes a back seat as the bouquet yields primarily tertiary notes of leather, graphite, lead pencils, cigar and even a bit of petroleum. There is just the whisper of blackberries to suggest that this was, at once, a wine. On the palate, the body is quite thin despite the well-integrated tannins. Nevertheless, contrary to the nose, the flavor profile is all the more generous, yielding strawberries, macerated cherries, preserved plums, smoked meats, hay and tobacco. The finish is smoky with clean, flinty end in tone. The acidity is low and the wine is arguably savory. This is quintessential Pauillac stuff with Cabernet-dominated blends. Despite the tough year, this is still a beautiful wine due to its harmonious balance. Very pleasurable but drink up now. 90
Sake
Sasanokawa Shibori Daiginjo Genshu 【笹の川：袋しぼり大吟醸原酒】(ABV 17%, Seimai-buai 40%, Brewed in 2014-06), Fukushima Prefecture
A special bottle that I have brought back from Hong Kong as the brewery suffered harsh destruction during the 2011 earthquake. As I have been told, the brewery, which is helmed by Mr. Sasaki (佐々木 幸充) of Nanbu Toji (南部杜氏), no longer works after BY24, or 2012. A limited run of 500 bottles, this one in particular is bottle 171. Brewed with 100% yamadanishiki (山田錦) rice from Ono-shi (小野市) in Hyogo Prefecture (兵庫県), the sake pours a milky white color with very thick legs, no less because of the sake's age and the fukuro-shibori (袋しぼり) bag-pressing process. On the nose, the sake is exquisitely soft and nuanced, yielding a multi-layered bouquet of roses, white flowers, fermented rice, koji, soy, cantaloupe and peaches. This is a simply intoxicating nose. Due to the age, the sake is starting to display more tertiary notes instead of the primary floral fruits. On the palate, the body is exceptionally viscous and evne a tad spicy. I particularly like the funky, mineral streak that runs through the structure. Consisting mostly of flavors of fermented rice, the palate is supported by a cast of bread dough, canned peaches, jasmine tea and cinnamon. I particularly enjoy the subtle rice sweetness. The finish is rounded, soft and replete with a spicy kick. This is a fabulous brew, though would probably be better if drunk somewhat earlier. Now I just have to hope I do not get radiation poisoning... 95