Beer
Shmaltz Brewing Company He'brew Genesis 20:20, ABV 16.7%, American Barleywine, New York
There always seems to be 2 recurring themes with Shamltz Brewing - Biblical-themed labels and high alcohol percentage. This is rather rare as the juxtaposition of those two is just weird. Nonetheless, Shmaltz makes very tasty brew and this is no exception. Pouring a deep nut brown color, the beer leaves no detectable head, no less because of the monster alcohol percentage. On the nose, the bouquet is pungent and concentrated. There are plenty of biscuit malts, Christmas fruit cake, raisins, baking spice and even toasty oak. The barrel aging (?) is particular apparent in this one. On the palate, the brew is slick like jet oil. Interestingly enough, the alcohol does not burn nor does the sweetness cloy, thereby making the brew highly drinkable. Flavors of vanilla, stone fruits, cinnamon, honeyed nuts and oak dominate the flavor profile. The finish is equally complex and leaves a toasty, smoky sweetness in the mouth, almost like that of s'more. This is a fantastic and highly drinkable brew. 96
Mikkeller Spontandryhop Citra, ABV 5.5%, American Wild Ale, Denmark
The beer pours a hazy golden amber color with a thick foamy head. As the foam thins, the head leaves delicate lacing around the glass. On the nose, the bouquet is fresh, floral and concentrated. Copious amounts of citrus, pineapples, stone fruits, white flowers and yeasty funk line the core of the nose. This is indeed a very summery brew. On the palate, the beer is soft while the supple effervescence keeps the beer vibrant and clear. The acidity is there ringing in the background. And with it are notes of cantaloupe, lemon zest, fresh cut grass, peppers and straw. Yielding notes of musty funk and citrus bitterness, the finish is complex and robust. This is a damn good hoppy pale (?) ale. 90
Wine
2008 Minière F & R Champagne Brut Zéro, Montagne de Reims, Champagne
Wow. Monster wine that definitely needs a decant. A blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier and 20% chardonnay, this wine pours a beautifully golden color with fine streams of vivacious bubbles and long legs. Though the color indicates a rather advanced stage of oxidation, the juice is anything but. Instead, I would actually think that drinking this now is infanticide. On the nose, the bubbly yields a concentrated and powerful bouquet of smoked meats, toasty brioche, lemon zest, shellfish and wet stones. It is big and punchy. Much like the nose, the palate is viscous, generous, yet incredibly well-defined. It possesses Chablis-like angularity yet at the same time plenty of elegance too. Mouth-watering acids and minerals are all over the place to give this a clear, resolute structure and a remarkable precision akin to laser. In short, the body is really sexy. Notes of seawater, shellfish, finger limes and Granny Smith line the core. Surprisingly, for a wine that does not go through any malolactic fermentation, the 15% usage of reserve wine, coupled with aging of 6 years on the lees, is still able to give it a nutty, oxidative flavor. Finish is exquisitely long and smoky, with plenty of delicious toastiness to boot. So, so good. Worth buying more. 93
2005 Pierre André au Château de Corton André Ladoix 1er Cru Le Rognet, Corton, Burgundy
This is what I call solid price-quality ratio. For 15 USD, this bottle has it all. It pours a deep golden color with thick long legs, which is a bit surprising as the color is quite advanced given the youth of the wine. The nose is adequately pungent and concentrated though light for its weight. The bouquet, which consists of honeyed nuts, beeswax, citrus cream, vanilla, sugarcane and wet stones, does start to show the first signs of age. This makes for a very interesting wine. On the palate, the wine has moderate weight and adequate acidity and minerality to strike a delicate balance. In fact, the mineral backbone is clear as day. Alcohol heat does attack a bit. Like the nose, the palate is starting to yield tertiary notes, such as vanilla, sugarcane, oak, hay and honey, as the primary notes of citrus and wheat grass take a backseat. I would dare say the flavors are even a bit fat. While the finish lacks weight, power and precision, the end does boast enough smoky toastiness and minerality to keep the wine moving forward without being too cloying. For what it is worth - a premier cru from a decent producer - the wine is enjoyable and is a solid bargain. 87
2011 Benoit Ente Bourgogne Blanc Golden Jubilee, Burgundy
Picked this one up at Union Square Wines. It pours a light straw, golden color with long legs. The color itself belies the age of the bottle. On the nose, the wine yields plenty of lemon zest, minerals, Granny Smith apples, floral, hazelnut and buttered popcorn. The toastiness from the oak is rather pronounced too. The palate says a different story. There is so much acidity and minerals that the wine is almost Chablis-esque. To moderate such an angular profile, there is adequate weight to the wine in the form of butter, smoke, oak and even vanilla. The finish is strong with minerals. I particularly like this because of the precision and power. This is a clear step above the typical Bourgogne Blanc, and it certainly shows in the price as well. Good, but not cheap! 90
2014 Domaine de la Borde Côte de Caillot, Arbois Pupillin, Jura
This is my first ever Jura wine. It should be interesting to see what other terroirs can produce for the ubiquitous Chardonnay grape. This juice pours a medium golden color with very thick long legs. On the nose, the wine yields plenty of bananas, honeycomb, lemon curd, ocean air, apple pie, baking spice and just the hint of oak. On the palate, the wine is surprisingly viscous. That said, the wine is by no means cloying because of the piercing acidity and the raspy streak of minerals, both of which almost instantaneously hit after the generous body subsides. Creamy yet precise in texture, the palate yields plenty of lemon zest, saltwater, wet stones, honeysuckle and spice. The finish is equally salty with a zesty zing towards the end as well. There even is a wisp of smoke as the wine subsides. This is an interesting wine as it combines the opulence of a Meursault with the angularity of a Chablis. Very enjoyable, and drinking well now. 91
1992 Domaine Michel Voarick Corton-Renardes, Corton, Burgundy
Fearing for the worst as the capsule is oxidized and sticky, I stick the corkscrew in as gently as I can. Luckily, the cork comes out in one piece. On first whiff, it appears that the wine is madeirized. With a good couple hours of aeration, the wine starts to unravel itself. It pours a musky cherry color with clear hints of browning. Long legs cling onto the glass. On the nose, the bouquet is just so mesmerizing. Carrying adequate weight and concentration, the fleshy nose consists of stewed cherries, macerated strawberries, plums sous bois, cough syrup, truffles and smoked duck. I am pleasantly surprised to see how much fruit there is despite the wine's age. On the palate, the juice is viscous, powerful yet velvety, a clear evidence that the tannins are all the more completely integrated. Such a mesmerizing, silken structure! Acidity is somewhat low and so the wine appears to be overly extracted and on the sweet side. Nonetheless, the flavors of smoke, truffles, leather and hay help balance the profile. Finish is of respectable length as the wine leaves smoky, jammy, earthen notes that linger on. Not sure why, but wine appears somewhat thin in structure towards the end. Nonetheless, this is highly enjoyable and the aging process is a true sight to behold. Fantastic bottle. 92