Booze Bulletin Issue 11 (June 2016)

Beer

Bell's Brewery Two Hearted Ale, ABV 7.0%, American IPA, Michigan

This may arguably one of the the most enjoyable off-the-rack IPA's that can be commonly found in neighborhood delis. For me, this beats out 60 Minute IPA, Sierra Nevada IPA, and Lagunitas IPA, all of which are competitors within the same category. This brew pours a golden copper color with a long-lasting clingy head that leaves behind significant, delicate lacing as it subsides. On the nose, the ale boasts plenty of floral hops supported by a cast of citrus, grapes, malts, tropical fruits and even some yeastiness. It smells clean and refreshing, a profile that belies the strength of the beer. On the palate, the entry, supported by a decent amount of carbonation, is smooth and balanced. In fact, I do not even detect any scent, taste, nor strength of alcohol. Flavors match the nose and consist of a profile of citrus, hops, and malty sweetness. The finish is quite long and the brew ends with plenty of hops, citrus astringency and cloying malts. This is excellent for its class, if not superb for the price point. No wonder I always find myself coming back to a 6-pack of this whenever they are available. There is just so much to offer! 93

 

 

 

 


Wine

2005 Guiborat Fils Champagne Les Caurés 46, Cramant, Champagne

The bottle (no. 550/1300) is of the 2005 vintage, hails from the Grand Cru plot Cramant, and is disgorged on Sept 3, 2013. This Chardonnay-only bottle surely screams of handmade heaven, as even the wire cage is not of steel but of strings of twine. Such a privilege to taste this as production is very low. As per the typical practice of the new wave of growers, viticulture at Guiborat is of aggressive pruning and low yields. Compounding the low yields is the fact that Guiborat sells five hectares of the fruit to Laurent Perrier. The wine itself pours a light golden color with moderately thick legs. On the nose, this bubbly is rather honeyed and clean. It is rather fruit-forward with notes of granny smith apples, lemon, honey, and yeasty brioche. There is a fine mousse on the palate as the bubbles are delicate and tiny. Acidity hits first, which is then followed by some alcoholic heat and sweetness from the juice. Much like the nose, the palate is also fruit-forward with plenty of citrus, apples, toast and nuttiness. Finish is of moderate length with a yeasty and smoky end. Although the champagne is young and the flavors are primary, I find it to be lacking in intensity (that extra oomph). Nevertheless, given the performance now, this is no doubt this is a great growers champagne with a lot of aging potential. 90

 

 

1971 Hessische Staatsweingüter Eltville Steinberger Riesling Spätlese, Rheingau, Germany

Truly a gem and privilege to drink this as this bottle is a piece of history, given that it is produced in a country no longer present - West Germany. Popped over dinner with Q, this riesling pours a brooding, dark auburn gold color with very thick long legs, both of which are testament to its age. Thankfully, it is not corked. The nose is particularly mesmerizing and concentrated on the get-go. Despite all the years, it still offers plenty of honey, leather, citrus, caramelized apples, roasted pineapples, petrol and nuts. There is a hint of spice to it too. On the palate, the entry is thin at first but the wine soon expands into a full and voluptuous structure. The acidity is there to keep the sugars in balance while the alcohol is barely present. The palate reflects the nose and yields plenty of honey, white flowers, apricot, lychee and even some oak. The sweetness comes at the very end, with an expansive finish that is also redolent of smoke. Very impressive Spätlese with remarkable balance between sugars, esters and acid. 93

 

2011 A. et P. de Villaine Bourgogne Blanc Les Clous, Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy

This wine pours a deep golden color that is more characteristic of an older wine rather than one at such infancy. Legs are somewhat thin. On the nose, this Bourgogne yields plenty of and different variations of lemon, wax, apples, mineral and a faint touch of oak in the end. A somewhat subtle nose that lacks concentration and power. On the palate, the wine is very fresh and well-defined as it screams of a mineral backbone and robust acidity. Despite the thin legs, this wine is actually quite unctuous, silky even, and offers a smattering of citrus, minerals, grass, and oak. Although the wine is somewhat linear, there is plenty of weight in the juice. Great strength with a well-defined cut and an abundance of fruit. It is hard to fathom that a simple Bourgogne has that much to offer. Great pedigree indeed. 88

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2012 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis 1er Cru La Forest, Chablis, Burgundy

This wine pours a very light straw color with a decent amount of viscosity on the legs. Initially tight, as is expected from young Burgundies, the Chablis opens up more after an hour of airing. On the nose, this is a very prototypical wine of the region. There are plenty of citrus, white stone fruits, wet stones, sea air and even honeysuckle. The palate is where the wine shines as it wrestles with great energy, concentration and remarkable precision. The wine is so well-defined with a distinct cut but without the roughness. The mineral backbone is particularly pronounced as well. Alcohol hits a bit at first, and with it brings flavors of lemons, grapefruits, peaches, white flowers and salt. The finish is quite long and the primary notes just linger around as the wine ends refreshing cut. Very enjoyable now but probably infanticide drinking this at this moment. 91