Wine
2014 Domaine Prieure Roch Bourgogne-Grand-Ordinaire, Burgundy
As expected with young, robust wines, this juice pours a dark garnet color with a brick orange rim and long, lingering legs. The nose is rather closed at first. But with time, this Gamay-Pinot blend is particularly herbal and fruit-forward. I find prominent notes of red berries, cherries, licorice, game, blackberries, and just the faintest touch of smoke and leather. Frankly, this does not smell like the prototypical Beaujolais at all. On the palate, the wine is particularly viscous, almost cloying even, but never overpowering. The tannins are well-integrated and not raspy either. Acidity is at a high and there are prominent notes of green strawberries, cherries, rose, and smoked meats. The finish is particularly impressive, as despite the young age, the wine wrestles with power, finesse and complexity. After all, the wine alternates from sweet entry to an acidic body before ending in a smoky finish. This is basic stuff, but nonetheless top notch highlighting the DRC pedigree. Fabulous. 91
2000 Marc Sorrel Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone
At 16 years of age, this wine pours a deep amber golden color with thick long legs. The nose still has some fruit, though the majority of the bouquet has shifted to tertiary notes. Quite floral, mostly jasmine, supported by a cast of caramelized peaches, roasted pineapples, honey, nuts, butterscotch and faint vanilla. On the palate, the mouthfeel is appropriately voluptuous, with a robust structure coming from the oak. The alcohol does hit a bit and wrestles with strength, however. As far as taste goes, the wine is almost devoid of freshness. Instead, the taste profile is centered around a musty taste with tertiary notes of leather, smoke, vanilla, honeysuckle, vanilla and oak. Although somewhat complex and expansive, the wine is still rather fat. The finish is not particularly long, acceptable in fact. The wine ends in a smoky, vanilla, honey sweetness. This is a bit too broad for me and there is not enough acidity in this. Nonetheless, this is a bottle with great QPR, especially when purchased at a restaurant. 88
2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault Les Narvaux, Meursault, Burgundy
The wine pours a golden straw color with thick long legs. Judging from the visual profile, the wine looks very full, almost like that of a young Californian chardonnay. On the nose, however, it is anything but. Concentrated, pungent and powerful, the bouquet yields plenty of fresh citrus notes, pineapples, minerality and acidity. The oak is barely detectable. Upon entry, the wine reflects the nose and displays a viscous and unctuous character without any alcoholic heat. Acidity and minerality are both rather high to keep balance and prevent the wine from being too fat. Citrus notes then take over, along with wet stones, honeysuckle and sugarcane. There is a touch of mint and again, barely any oak as well. Finish is full but electrifying, no less because of the acidity. The wine is mostly primary for now, with a clear, distinct focus and laser-like precision. There is certainly lots of power in this and the wine needs more time to develop. Nonetheless, this is very atypical of a Meursault, and frankly, feels more like a Chablis. For the style, I am expecting something different. Nonetheless, still enjoyable and a well-crafted effort. 91
2005 Olivier Leflaive Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir, Chablis, Burgundy
At eleven years old, this wine pours a mesmerizing deep golden color with long legs, no less because of the ripeness of the vintage. On the nose, the juice displays the trademark chalky characteristics supported by notes of minerals, wet stones, fresh-cut grass, plenty of tropical fruits, lemon curd, honey and oak. Still relatively primary. On the palate, the wine is full and viscous, with a weight commensurate of of Grand Cru status. While acidity is rather subdued, there is a streak of minerality in the wine to keep things fresh and interesting. Just like the nose, the wine tastes of primary notes - mostly citrus, grass, plenty of minerals, and just a touch of butter and cream in the end. The finish ends in more minerals with just a faint touch of smoke. Very complex, very fragrant and very beautiful. This is a solid bottle of Chablis. 92
2005 Chateau Clerc Milon, Pauillac, Bordeaux
Another blockbuster year wine. This Pauillac is first popped and aired for two hours before consumption. It pours a dark garnet color with an inky black color. As expected from this stellar vintage, the wine pours with very thick long legs, evidence of an above average alcohol content. With time, the nose unravels itself and reveals notes of black fruit, dark earth, plums, blackberries, leather, lead pencil shavings and smoke. This is undoubtedly a very classic Pauillac nose. The palate echoes the nose and is suitably textured and viscous with evolved, velvety tannins to boot. There is barely any detectable trace of alcohol. As with the nose, the flavors are dominated by black fruits supported by a cast of scorched stones, graphite, cigar box and sous bois. Towards the end, there is some smokiness as well. The finish is long, complex and mysterious. Although the wine is still very primary as of now, it is drinking well, though an additional 5 years of aging should reflect more complexity. Will revisit this only in at least 3 years time. 91
1993 Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon, Champagne
The wine pours a somewhat light golden color with hints of amber. Legs are thin and there is not much carbonation in the wine, which is kind of expected for a wine at 23 years of age. On the nose, this champagne is quite focused with respectable concentration. The bouquet consists of coconuts, citrus, toasty brioche, nuts and a touch of sugarcane. While the nose does excel to a certain degree, the palate is quite the opposite. It is feminine, soft and supple but lacks power. Perhaps this is due to the age, or the vintage, I do not know. To me it is a wine of guile and not of assertiveness. Minerality and acidity dominated the core, and just like the nose, the tastes revolve around citrus, tropical fruits and yeast. Finish is somewhat smoky with acceptable length and complexity for a wine of this stature. There even is a bit of umami in the end to boot. But then again, I cannot find that distinct cut or precision which I often like in champagnes. While this is delicious, it is not the style for me. Also, it is certainly time to drink up now as additional aging may only lead to oxidation at this point. 91
Whisky
Aberlour a'bunadh Batch 46, ABV 60.4%, Speyside
Despite not having an age statement, this rendition of Aberlour is one of my favorite whiskies of all time. There really isn't much you can fault with this sherry monster at the price point as it punches far above its weight. The whisky pours a dark copper, almost brick red color with very thick long legs. Surprisingly, at 60.4% ABV, the nose is still remarkably subdued and not overpowering. There are plenty of dark chocolate, nuts, Christmas fruit cake, marmalade. Remarkably, there is not that winey, and there even is some bourbon-laced vanilla too. On the palate, alcohol hits first with full force though it is not as harsh as some of the other new make bourbons. The mouthfeel is remarkably viscous and full. Flavors of molasses, caramel, chocolates, cherries, nuts and preserved stone fruits dominate the core. The finish is markedly long with a complexity that can be described as sulphuric, astringent and smoky, all held against a backdrop of Christmas fruits and honey. Frankly, this reminds me of the Glenfarclas 105 in both profile and strength, though it is of much less complexity. 87