Beer
To Øl Likeweisse Director's Cut, ABV 10.5%, Berliner Weisse, Denmark
Where should I even begin with this? This is a very weird beer. Just from the get go, I cannot even classify whether this is a Weisse or an Imperial Sour Ale. It pours a dark, hazy amber color with a thick, dense foamy head that laces well. The beer is very concentrated as the bouquet just leaps out from the glass. This brew boasts a nose of plenty of funk, Brett, plums, passion fruit, mangoes and some floral hops. The tartness is especially apparent. On the palate, the beer is clean tasting with a thick, unctuous body. What strikes me the most is the streak of acidity and carbonation that runs down the backbone, along with notes of brown sugar, sour plums, vinegar, Brett and even coriander. Surprisingly, at an ABV level of 10.5%, the beer barely shows any sign of alcohol or heat and drinks rather easily. The finish is not terribly long nor interesting. But rather, it is very fresh with a fruity, acidic and malty profile. This is a very interesting and thoroughly enjoyable beer, one that is particularly balanced, vibrant and clean. Really good stuff. 92
Wine
Champagne Savart L'Accomplie Premier Cru Extra Brut Vieilles Vignes (Disgorged Sept 2015), Écueil, Champagne
Although I have long heard good things about Savart, this is my first from the champagne house. This particular one is pinot noir dominated, totaling 80% of the blend with the other 20% comprised of chardonnay. The bubbly is popped and poured into wide-based glasses to help open up the tightly-wound bundle. It pours a somewhat deep golden color with very fine beading and long legs, all of which are signs to prolonged aging of the wine itself. On the nose, it is still somewhat tight, possibly because it is still relatively young. Nonetheless, there is a bountiful, concentrated bouquet of granny smith apples, plenty of citrus, sugarcane, pine, almonds, pears, white jasmine flowers and even some smoky spice towards the end. On the palate, the champagne is very supple and drinks like a well-constructed white blend. In fact, there is just the barest of hints of carbonation. However, much like the nose, the palate is rather compact as well and only yields very primary citrus, fruit-dominated flavors. There is also a particularly strong mineral backbone and adequate acidity in the end to keep things fresh. Just the slightest of smoke towards the end as well to draw this champagne to a close. Admittedly, drinking this now is infanticide. However, I see great potential in this and additional aging would surely help bring out the mesmerizing qualities of the pinot noir. 92
2007 Tardieu Laurent Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Speciale, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone
The wine is popped and aired for half an hour before drinking. Typical of hot, ripe vintages of Rhone Valley wines, this one in particular pours a dark, inky purple color with very thick long legs. The nose is particularly concentrated and displays high levels of extraction. Decadently built, it reveals notes of bacon fat, plenty of preserved plums, tobacco, sous bois, blackberries and hay. To me, this spells copious amounts of Grenache in the wine. Just like the nose, the body of the wine is effusive and expansive. Thick and unctuous, it is mineral driven and supported by well-developed, integrated tannins. Bountiful flavors of smoke, garrique, smoked meats, black fruits, cigar box and tobacco line the core of the taste profile. There is just the right amount of elevating acidity in the end, as well as smokiness, to keep things light. This is a beautiful wine, one that is fruit-driven with a good amount of astringency and body. Although young, this is starting to enter into its prime drinking window. Definitely a great effort and a reminder that Tardieu Laurent is indeed a great producer in the region worth seeking out. 95
2000 Maison Leroy Savigny-lès-Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Blanc), Burgundy
Even though this is a village level wine, the pedigree of Leroy is particularly present in the expression. At 16 years old, the wine starts to show its age as it pours a plush, yellow gold color with moderately long legs. On first pop, the wine is very much closed. But with time the nose is concentrated and yields notes of white flowers, plenty of citrus, toasted almonds, oak and even some plasticine. On the palate, the wine is somewhat thin with a streak of acidity which keeps its fresh. It is also very mineral-driven. There are flavors of almonds, lemon zest, honey and even some mint. Just the faintest of smoke in the finish to punctuate the long, complex end. Decent wine. 91
Sake
A rather impressive sake lineup this month round.
Homare Tatsumigura Junmai Ginjo 【ほまれ：巽蔵純米吟醸】(ABV 15%, Seimai-buai 50%), Fukushima Prefecture
This sake is a first for me, or at least, the first sake from Fukushima after the stricken nuclear power plant in the region in 2011. Worries of radiation aside, this brew pours a crystal clear color with moderate legs. Instead of boasting power and concentration, the nose of this sake has a feminine profile as it is clean, soft and mellow. First come the floral notes, which are then supported by secondary scents of melon, stone fruits, rice and goji berries. Just like the nose, the palate is clean, smooth and lacks viscosity and body. Flavors of rice, jasmine flowers and cantaloupe dominate. With such a taste profile, my guess is that the water used for brewing is particularly soft. The finish is just what you would expect as well - clean, simple and rather short. Although enjoyable, this is a very straightforward sake without much complexity. And at such a milling rate, daiginjo level to be exact, I expect a bit more extraction and finesse. 83
Isojiman Ginjo Genshu 【磯自慢；ぼりたて吟譲生原酒 - 平成 27 年 BY】(ABV 17-18%, Seimai-buai 55%, Brewed 2015-12), Shizuoka Prefecture
This sake is a very special treat as it is not an export product found in the States. Rather, this is brought to me by M from Hong Kong (many thanks). Isojiman needs no introduction as it is certainly one of the best sake brewers out there. Specifically, the brewing process involves making the koji from scratch, a process calls koji zukuri (麹作り) as well as using traditional Shizuoka (静岡県) yeast. Utilizing 100% extra super high grade Yamadanishiki (山田錦) rice from Special Area A in Tojo (兵庫県 - Hyogo Prefecture), this sake is a genshu (原酒) and thus naturally, boasts higher than normal alcohol content. It pours a translucent color with long, viscous legs. The nose is quite unlike anything I have smelt before. It is concentrated, powerful and yields prominent notes of overripe bananas (very pronounced), white peaches, musk melons, jasmine flowers, passion fruit and kiwi. That strong banana aroma - I wonder if that has to do with the type of yeast used. On the palate, the sake is supple yet expansive, light yet powerful at the same time. The alcohol heat hits first, which is then followed by even more notes of bananas, tropical fruits, caramelized peaches and muscat grapes. In fact, the flavors are so fruit-forward that I do not even detect the slightest hint of rice at the very end. The finish is sweet and complex as the sake ends with remarkable finesse. It is so concentrated yet so deft on its feet! Truly remarkable stuff. 92
Dassai 23 【獺祭：二割三分】(ABV 16%, Seimai-buai 23%, Brewed in 2015-11), Yamaguchi Prefecture
My second time having this, with the first tasting note published here. It is always a treat having something spectacular as this. After all, a milling rate of 23% means that the amount of rice grains used to make one bottle of Dassai 23 could have been used to make 2 bottles of other daiginjo-level sakes. Utilizing Special-A grade yamadanishiki rice from Hyogo Prefecture, this sake pours a crystal clear color with thick, clingy legs. The concentration is remarkable as the bouquet just leaps out from the glass. Fruit-driven, this nose boasts notes of peaches, musk melons, lychees, yuzu, apricots and even mangoes. Much like the nose, the structure is rightfully viscous with a sharp attack of alcohol to boot. The palate is just as beguiling as the nose and offers plenty of stone fruits, muscat grapes, jasmine flowers and banana candy. The finish is particularly complex and leaves a trail of rice-tinged umami in the end. To me, this is always a solid brew as it is one of remarkable balance. In particular, the flavors are neither too acidic, nor sweet, nor umami-laden. Everything is in the right proportions. This is certainly a good study on balance, complexity and technique. 93
Kokuryu Hachijuhachigo 【黑龍：八十八号】(ABV 15.5%, Seimai-buai 35%, Brewed in 2015-11), Fukui Prefecture
This sake represents the entry level of Kokuryu's lineup of limited series sakes. A daiginjo-level sake, this brew takes its name from the 88-th sake tank, the number of which is believed to bring good luck. This special sake combines yamadanishiki rice from the Special A region in Kato City (Hyogo Prefecture) along with the famed mineral-rich waters from the subterranean Kuzuryu River (九頭竜川). As a result of the high degree rice polishing, the sake is exceptionally refined and pours a crystal clear color with thick long legs. The nose is particularly concentrated and with time, notes of mangoes, lychee, melon, red apples, jasmine and pears just leap out from the glass. On the palate, the sake is expressively supple and unctuous, powerful yet light on its feet at the same time. I would even say there is some chewiness to the texture. Flavors of bananas, pear candy, white peaches, muscats and lychee are particularly apparent. In the end, there is just a whisper of astringency and a note of rice-laden umami to finish things. This is quite an incredible brew with many points given to its balance, power and expressiveness. Really good. 94