Beer
Goose Island Bourbon County Brand Stout 2014 Release (From Tap), Imperial Stout, ABV 13.2%, Illinois
What a surprise it was when I saw this being served on tap at my favorite beer shop in the City, not to mention that this is the vintage release. In this version, the brew is made in rye barrels with Cassia bark (cinnamon), cocoa nibs, panela and coconut water. And it certainly shows. This brew pours a pitch black color with minimal head. The color makes it seem like drinking a glass of oil, but the nose and taste is anything but. These special brewing ingredients certainly reveal themselves in the nose as I get layers upon layers of vanilla, smoke, bourbon, roasted coffee, coconut cream, chocolate and cinnamon. The mouth feel is quite remarkable too - viscous but light while the alcohol does not bite despite the strength. More flavors of chocolate, roasted coffee beans, spice and vanilla cream dominate the palate. Surprisingly, the strength is masked very well and the alcohol does not bite. Finish is very long with a candybar-like finish. This is top class in every aspect for sure, with bonus points for balance and drinkability. 99
Niigata Beer, Belgian Pale Ale, ABV 5.0%, Japan
Finally got my hands to try this after being invited to the Mutual Trading Company trade show. The beer pours a hazy, straw-golden color with a quickly receding head. On the nose, the beer is slightly sweet with a mixed bouquet of malts, tropical fruits and white grapes. Certainly a very interesting profile. On the palate, some carbonation is apparent while there is minimal hoppiness to boot. Even more interesting flavors as pineapples and bananas dominate. Finish is rather short, however. This is a light ale alright, as the color certainly shows. But I am not sure how this is Belgian in style at all. Where are those hops? 82
Niigata Beer Golden Kölsch, Kölsch, ABV 8%, Japan
Going to give Niigata Beers a second try with the Kölsch. And unlike its cousin, this is certainly a much more substantial brew. Off the bottle, the beer pours a hazy, murky brown, auburn color with decent lacing and foam retention. The smell here is a lot more potent for sure - brown sugars, butter, caramelized peaches, smoke and spice. The beer certainly flexes its weight in both flavor and alcohol on the palate which is dominated by flavors of butter. There are also other flavors of raisins, tart apples, and stone fruits afterwards. Finish is slightly longer with a sweet-ish conclusion. Interesting flavor profile, and certainly better than the Belgian Pale Ale cousin, but I would still take a Belgian Dubbel/Trippel over this any day. 84
Kizakura Kyoto Bakushu Kura no Kahori "Flavor of Sake Brewery", Pale Lager, ABV 4%, Japan
At the trading show, I also have the chance to drink two other brews that are not on the market yet. These are made by the Kizakura Sake Brewery (黃櫻) with an emphasis of imparting sake brewing techniques in the beer. For this beer, the brewery uses water from Fushimi and Seishu sake yeast for the fermentation process. As a result, the beer pours a very pale orange/amber color with medium head. Just like a sake, the nose of this beer is very clean, almost slightly grassy. There are aromas of citrus, hops, rice and fresh-cut grass. This beer is rather thin on the palate with moderate effervescence to keep it lively. A slightly sweet flavor profile as well with stone fruits and malts. Sadly, the finish is quite short with bitterness in the end. Drinkable, but I am not a particularly big fan. 80
Kizakura Kyoto Bakushu Yamadanishiki, Japanese Rice Lager, ABV 5%, Japan
The other beer Kizakura that is featured in the trading show. Very interesting brew here again as this lager uses the same type of rice that is used to brew sake, specifically, Yamadanishiki (山田錦). It pours a cloudy gold color with a quickly receding head. The nose definitely draws parallel with the sake cousin - rice, white peach, jasmine, toast are all in abundance. On the palate, the beer is light and creamy with a delicate effervescence. There are flavors of tea biscuits, citrus and spice. Finish is quite short without too much bitterness or complexity either. An uncommon taste profile. This admittedly tastes more like a sparkling sake than a beer. Interesting, and great as a summer drink. 84
Hitachino Nest Commemorative Ale 2015, Eisbock, ABV 9%, Japan
From memory, the Commemorative Ale 2014 Vintage was a blast and I am dying to try this year's release. It pours a hazy, dark amber, almost maroon color with a thin head and little lacing. Quite a bit of sediment and carbonation upon inspection. On the nose, this Eisbock yields spice, dried fruits, sherry, vanilla, oak and toasted nuts. Despite the alcohol content being high, the beer does not bite. Rather, the structure is oily, thick and viscous. Flavors of malts, pine, vanilla, a lot of spice, honey and stollen are all the more present. The length is quite long and the beer ends in a hoppy, bitter finish with the carbonation rounding things out. Fabulous brew and I am especially impressed by how clean the beer drinks. To me, this almost drinks like a Belgian Tripel and is certainly an enjoyable, even spectacular, brew. 92
Brouwerij De Molen - Heaven & Hell, Russian Imperial Stout, ABV 12%, Netherlands
This beer pours a jet black color with no head at all. In fact, it actually pours like a flat Coke. Very typical Imperial Stout nose of charred oak barrels, vanilla, dark malts, caramel, molasses, coffee, chocolate and spice. The palate yields much structure, as one would expect from this alcohol-fueled monster. The body is quite thick, and the heat from the alcohol definitely tingles a bit. Otherwise, this goes down rather smoothly. Flavors of caramel, vanilla, oak and spice are there with some hoppiness towards the end. The finish is somewhat complex with more caramel malts and smokiness to boot. Surprisingly, this is a much more astringent, and less sweet, imperial stout when compared to its peers such as Goose Island Bourbon County Stout and World Wide Stout from Dogfish Head. Great effort for sure, but not sure if I am a particular fan. 87
Sake
Dassai Beyond 【獺祭：磨の先】(ABV 16-17%, Seimai-buai <23%, Brewed 2015-06), Yamaguchi Prefecture
The first of these incredible sake brews. The Dassai Beyond is made purely from Yamadanishiki rice (山田錦) and took 10 years of experimentation to create. This eventually leads to a sake that is way beyond Dassai 23 in terms of aroma, flavor, quality, and just about everything else. For example, although the seimai-buai is a commercial secret, it is definitely below the already-impressive 23%, leaving only the shinpaku of each rice grain for brewing to achieve cleaner, more intense flavors. Upon pouring, the Beyond pours a very thick, viscous texture with very long legs. On the nose are all the hallmarks of a great brew - effortless power and concentration. The aroma is so incredibly pungent with layers upon layers of white peaches, musk melon, white jasmine tea, rice, wet stones, strawberries and orange blossoms. With time, tertiary notes start to develop and I even get notes of sweet honey, turnips and marmalade. On the palate, the sake is very viscous and just coats the entire tongue with notes very similar to that of the nose. The finish is super long with a rich, floral and honeyed note. Despite the alcohol strength, this does not bite at all. This is definitely some legendary stuff. 98
Nanbu Bijin "10 Years" Junmai Daiginjo Koshu【南部美人：十年貯藏古酒】(ABV 17-18%, Seimai-buai 35%), Iwate Prefecture
What a serious privilege it is to be able to try this absolute beauty, considering that the brewers do not even sell this elixir in Japan! Made by the late toji Hajime Yamaguchi, this sake is made in the most traditional of methods including shizuku (雫), or gravity drip process. What first strikes me is the appearance of it. Being a koshu (古酒), the sake is aged for a full 10 years under extremely cold temperatures in full isshobin (一升びん), or 1.8L bottles, before being transferred to normal 720 mL bottles for packaging. Surprisingly, rather than the customary dark amber color for aged sakes, this koshu actually pours a crystal clear color with delicate long legs, thanks to the excessively cold refrigeration during the aging process. The nose of the sake is incredible, with a very mellow (again, thanks to aging) yet concentrated profile filled with apples, white grapes, jasmine and a hint of Shaoxing (紹興) towards the end. On the palate, the stronger-than-normal alcohol does assert itself. Despite that, there palate is supple and mellowwith a cascading effect that just coats the tongue like whisky. The flavors are at first a bit muted, but they soon reveal notes of melon, bananas, muscats, lychee, white peaches and rice. The finish is silky and extremely long, almost lasting a good full minute as the sake fluctuates between umami and sweetness. Wow! This is an incredible sake that drinks like an aged, unoaked chardonnay like the Montrachet Grand Crus in both profile and complexity. Simply ethereal and divine. 100
Born Yume Wa Masayume "Dreams Come True" 【梵：夢は正夢】(ABV 16-17%, Seimai-buai 35%, Brewed in 2015-02), Fukui Prefecture
This is a very limited production koshu from Born Brewery where the sake is aged for 5 years at -5 degrees Celcius. As a result, the sake has a remarkable balance. It pours a clear color with a slight yellowish hue to it because of the aging. At first, the sake is rather muted. But given time, it opens up and yields a balanced yet subdued nose of flowers, honeysuckle, steamed jasmine rice, stone fruits and melons. On the palate, the sake asserts itself with a deceptively silky structure that just rolls down the tongue. Flavors of rice, jasmine tea, peaches are all there, tied together by a muskiness and a mineral backbone. Despite the richness, the finish is super clean and clear cut with a sweet tinge to boot in the end. Very good stuff that especially strikes me because of its balance and penetration. 95
Kikusui Kuramitsu 【菊水：藏光】(ABV 15%, Seimai-buai 23%), Niigata Prefecture
This is a brew that specifically features a Niigata prefecture specialty - Uonuma Koshihikari rice (越光米) which is especially sticky and is often used to make the shari in sushi. In terms of brewing, this sake pours a crystal clear color as one would expect from the incredibly low milling rate. On the nose, the sake is light but very fragrant. Notes of cut grass, mint, stone fruits and berries are apparent. It is remarkable that the perfume is especially sweet and creamy, possibly as a result of the rice strain. On the palate, this daiginjo is smooth with an effortless lightness to it. Despite that, the palate is still concentrated with notes of floral botanics, rice sweetness and tropical fruits. The finish is slightly sweet and somewhat short. Nonetheless, this is a very elegant sake that serves as a good testament of Kikusui's brewing prowess. 94
Kokuryu "Kuzuryu" Nine Headed Dragon Junmai 【九頭龍：純米】(ABV 14-15%, Seimai-buai 65%, Brewed in 2015-07), Fukui Prefecture
This is the first Kuzuryu (九頭龍) offering by Kokuryu Brewery in the United States, and also the first junmai (純米) that is ever produced under this label. This sake is named so after the underground Kuzuryu river that flows beneath the brewery, the water of which is obtained from this natural spring. As with Kokuryu's other offerings, this sake uses the Gohyaku mangoku (五百萬石) strain of rice and pours a crystal clear color with medium legs. On the nose are notes of peaches, jasmine, musk, Fuji apples, mineral and a bit of yeasty funk. On the palate, the sake is rather soft and supple with a creamy, brooding texture - nothing too brazen or angular. Slight heat from the alcohol hits first, followed by a mellow concentration of tarte tatin, cinnamon, apple cider, ripe melons and pears. Decent kick of acidity in the end to make a clear cut. Meanwhile, the finish is quite expansive yet mellow. Quite a decent brew. 85
Hanaabi Junmai Daiginjo "Shizukushibori"【花陽浴：袋吊瓶囲無濾過原酒】(ABV 16%, Seimai-buai 48%) Saitama Prefecture
This genshu (原酒) sake, made from 100% Hattan-nishiki rice (八反錦), uses the shizuku method. As a result of the painstaking production methods, the sake pours a faint yellowish color with a abnormally thick legs. The nose is particularly delicate yet concentrated. On it, the alcohol hits front and square; this is followed by notes of maltose, saltines, melons, strawberries, jasmine and baby carrots. On the palate, the alcohol is rather subdued while the structure is robust, creamy and unctuous. There is a umami and mineral streak throughout the sake as it travels down the throat, bringing with it flavors of rice, malts, smoke, soy, melons and berries. The finish is slightly hot, thanks to the high alcohol content. But despite that, the end is smoky, complex and somewhat astringent. A rich, powerful brew which can be improved if there is more balance. 87
Wine
A Night with Krug @Aldo Sohm.
Krug Clos du Mesnil 2003, Reims, Champagne
Purchased by Krug over the phone in 1971, the Clos du Mesnil is a 4.5 acre walled plot planted only with Chardonnay grapes. This vintage is marked by extreme hot weathers which made different plots of land yield different maturation levels. As a result, the berry picking span over 2 months than the customary 2 weeks. Aged for 9 years before release, this champagne pours a light straw color, almost like that of a Sauvignon Blanc, with thick legs and very fine beads. A somewhat austere wine, this Blanc de Blanc yields notes of toast, white peaches, citrus oils, Comté, mint, chalk, tobacco smoke, slate and cream desserts on the nose. On the palate, the wine first caresses the tongue with robust masculinity, followed by a string of very fine bubbles and a mineral-forward backbone. Surprisingly for a vintage with very ripe berries, the champagne has vibrant acidity while maintaining an unctuous structure. On the palate, the champagne is dominated by notes of chalk, honeysuckle, leather, smoke, charred oak, brioche and smoked fish. With time, there are even notes of citrus oils. The finish is very long and spins with more smokiness. Although the wine is very young, as shown through the astringency towards the end, it surely shows the promise in years to come. 95
Krug Vintage 2003, Reims, Champagne
Aged for 11 years with multiple disgorgements before release, this wine is composed of 46% pinot noir, 29% chardonnay and 25% pinot meunier. It pours a deep gold color with very thick legs. On the nose, a very strong brioche note supported by other notes of sugarcane, musky cheese, game, hazelnuts, beurre noisette and citrus oils. With time, there are even copious amounts of caramel popcorn. Compared to the 2000, the 2003 is more expansive and fruit potential but less forward and linear than the 2000. On the palate, the wine is fruit-dominated supported by a robust, mineral backbone and higher levels of residual sugar than that of the 2000. The effervescence is just lovely, delicate yet intense. There are notes of citrus oils, cheeses, spice, truffle and nuts on the palate. The finish is incredibly long and incredibly smoky, with a suppleness to boot. For me, I prefer this to the 2000, mostly because of the fruit-forward approach and generous body. This is just as Aldo Sohm puts it, sugar to champagne is like makeup. It allows it to blossom beautifully from otherwise austere, abrasive wines. And in this vintage, it certainly proves true. 96
Krug Vintage 2000, Reims, Champagne
A blend of 42% pinot noir, 43% chardonnay and 15% meunier, this champagne pours a lighter gold color and thinner legs than those of the 2003. The nose is complex and heady driven by minerality and citrus. There are supporting notes of tropical fruits, granny smith apples, fresh cut grass and aloe. In fact, there are even whiffs of saline ocean air, almost like fishy smells, to it as well. On the palate, the structure is definitely thinner than that of the 2003. Nonetheless, the creamy mousse is still present with a bready character and a lightness to it. Notes of nori, smoked salmon, cider, toast, and citrus oils dominate the palate. Towards the end, the champagne yields a clean cut and a somewhat more restrained smoky scent than that of the 2003. Nonetheless, there is a raciness and balance to it like a great Montrachet. Although somewhat acidic now, this will age well and develop into a more balanced champagne marked by concentration, finesse and lightness. 95
Krug Grand Cuvee NV, Reims, Champagne
Can't find the consumed bottle. Specimen will have to do.
The Grand Cuvee, according to Nicole and Aldo, is the hardest wine to make amongst the lineup because of consistency; that is, to create a wine that maintains the same profile regardless of vintage and vineyards. To do that, the tasting panel tastes 250 base wines over a long period and compiles 4000 tasting notes as a result. The panel then tastes 150 reserve wines (base wines made from past years) before Eric Lebel, the Chef de Caves, proposes 5 blends as candidates for production under the Grand Cuvee label. As a result of this arduous process and aging in the cellar, this champagne pours a deep golden color with pin-sized bubbles and thick long legs. On the nose are copious amounts of lemon custard, apricots, hazelnut oils, honey, leather, brioche, smoky hay and citrus. The palate is generous with a restrained character in both taste and effervescence. Notes of brioche, almonds, white peaches, Meyer lemons, brie, honey and mint dominate the core. Minerality is all the more present too. The finish is very long with a clear cut as the acidity levels maintain the balance. A very masculine wine, and one that is definitely age-worthy. This is even better than the last time I tried it. 94
Krug Rose NV, Reims, Champagne
Made by the bleeding of pinot noir grape skins (saignée), the final champagne pours a deep salmon color with very long legs and fine bubbles. Surprisingly, for a rose, this champagne is very masculine with remarkable intensity. The nose is powerful, concentrated, and definitely dominated by pinot. Spice, currants, cheries, brioche, Kool-aid, and chalk are all there in the bouquet. On the palate, the wine is silky, toasty, robust yet light with remarkable finesse. In fact, the bubbles are barely there. Notes of walnuts, cheeses, berries, toasted almonds and mineral are there. The finish is long with a clean and elegant cut in the end. This is fabulous stuff and definitely one of the best Rose champagnes I have had in my life, ever.
One interesting story here from Nicole. The story goes that the first unofficial rose vintage is made in 1915 when Jeanne, the wife of Joseph II, accidentally bled pinot noir skins into the wine during World War 1. As a result of the sentimental value to the family, the rose wine was never replicated by the grande marque. In 1983, this all changed when Henri and Remi Krug decided to make it again, consciously. At that time upon tasting, their father Paul was so alarmed as he thought someone was replicating the Krug flagship. But in the end, he was placated when explained by his sons. And that was how the rose line was born. 94
A night with good friends and a couple of nice bottles, especially for one who just finished her GRE's.
2013 A. et P. de Villaine Aligote Bouzeron, Burgundy
The private label of the famed Aubert from DRC. This Aligote pours a pale straw color with thick legs. On the nose are copious amounts of flint, mineral, fresh cut grass, citrus oils, hay and light smokiness. Surprisingly enough, the notes of citrus, and acid, are especially strong. On the palate, the wine drinks like a Chablis in style - unctuous with racy minerality. Citrus, peaches, lemon curd, wheat grass and barnyard straw dominate the core of the palate. The finish is of medium length with a clear cut finish. Although somewhat one-dimensional, I still find this very enjoyable. Certainly will be seeking more as I see value in this wine. 87
2003 Bert Simon Serriger Herrenberg Riesling Auslese #4, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
The wine is popped, aired for an hour, and pours a golden bronze color with delicate medium legs. Surprisingly, despite the young vintage, the cork is in quite poor condition as it was soaked all the way up to the brim and fell into the wine upon extraction. On the nose, the wine yields a concentrated bouquet of honey, apricot, beurre blanc, sugarcane, roasted pineapple and candied nuts, just like that of a boytrytised Sauternes but dialed back in saccharinity. There is also a slight petroleum undertone beneath the fruit. On the palate, the wine is very approachable with a discernible structure - no less due to the minerality. Surprisingly, the wine is not cloying at all as there is adequate acidity and alcohol to help the juice glide effortlessly down the tongue. The wine has captivating flavors of peaches and cream, pineapple juice, candied lemon peel and wet stones. Finish is quite long with some smokiness to boot in the end. Fantastic Riesling. 93
2000 Fleury Pere & Fils Champagne Extra Brut, Courteron, Champagne
After a night of tasting Krug champagnes, I definitely see similarities between this and Krug. Most notably, the predominance of pinot noir in the blend. At 15 years of age, this champagne pours a deep golden, almost auburn color with thick legs with pin-sized bubbles. The nose is dominated by fresh brioche, candied lemon peel, minerals, butter, smoke, granny smith apples and honey biscuits. With time, I even pick up some pepper and prunes. On the palate, the wine is unctuous and flaunts a creamy, delicate mousse. Minerality is definitely present, front and square. yet despite that, this wine is far from austere given the citrus, smoked fish, aloe, truffles and dried mangoes found in abundance on the palate. The finish is long as the champagne alternates between smokiness and tartness. The end is clear cut with a dry yet supple finish. The power and concentration are there, but the champagne lacks the longevity in the glass when compared to its peers. 93
2007 Comtes Lafon Les Duresses Premier Cru, Monthélie, Burgundy
The bottle pours a dark ruby color, somewhat magenta even, with long thick legs. On the nose, the wine is concentrated, powerful and tightly packed with jammy currants, blackberries, cherries, smoked meats, sous bois and burnt hay. On the palate, the wine demonstrates beautiful, velvety structure with very silky tannins. With time, the acidity starts to reveal itself too and provides a fresh backdrop behind a palate of jammy red fruits, macerated cherries, game, cigar box, and truffles. Finish is quite complex as the wine leaves a smoky trace towards the end. Quite a decent wine, but there are certain minor quibbles over alcohol strength, lack of minerality and overall balance. It certainly feels more like I am drinking a Kistler or Aubert, rather than a Comtes Lafon. 89
2005 Rene Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy
The wine pours a musky ruby color with a deep purple core and thick, long legs, no doubts to the high extraction levels from this stellar vintage. With that in mind, the wine is also let breathe for a good couple hours to let the acidity and tannins integrate. On the nose, the wine boasts a masculine, powerful bouquet of jammy red fruits, macerated cherries, Ribena, dried broccoli rabe (菜乾), roasted longan shells and tobacco box. Great extraction levels are evident just from the nose alone. On the palate, the wine is unctuous with the tannins and acidity working well together to provide harmonious balance against a backdrop of red and black fruits (berries in particular), blackcurrant jam, cigar smoke, cereal, and sous bois. Thankfully, the alcohol levels do not bite. The finish is long with a grainy, slightly astringent note towards the end. Fabulous stuff, and the power of the vintage certainly shines through a quality producer. This wine is just starting to hit its peak singing effortlessly in the glass. While it drinks well now, there are certainly many more years ahead for this juice to further develop. 93