Booze Bulletin Issue 4 (November 2015)

Beer

To:Øl Final Frontier, Imperial IPA, ABV 9%, Denmark

The beer pours a deep, hazy amber color with decent lacing and head retention. The head itself is foamy and creamy in texture. On the nose, the brew yields a yeasty aroma that is dominated by tropical fruits, toast, caramel, pine, butterscotch and citrus. This bouquet is almost redolent of a Belgian tripel. On the palate, the texture is creamy and thick with well-delineated carbonation. What is remarkable about this beer is the balance as the alcohol does not bite at all; nor is there any discernible residual heat. Flavor-wise, the bitter hop oils almost take a backseat to the sweetness of the malts, chalk, orange peel, toffee and fresh cut grass. Finish is long and dry with a malty end to it. Again, the alcohol is barely present. This is immensely enjoyable, and certainly a very easy drinker. In fact, it is so balanced and easily drinkable that it masks the true strength of the brew. Good stuff, but definitely one of those beers that can be classified as a 'slippery slope'. 93

 

 

 

 

 

To:Øl Jæmes Braun, Imperial Brown Ale, ABV 10.5%, Denmark (Not pictured)

This brew pours a deep cola-brown, almost close to black, color with a very thick, tan-colored head and a fine amount of lacing. What surprised me most is the amount of residue (most likely dead yeast sediment) that comes out from the bottle. On the nose, the brew yields a concentrated, powerful bouquet of cocoa, espresso beans, roasted malts, caramelized peaches, brown sugar, oatmeal and even tea biscuits. The body of the beer is quite thick, with a copious amount of carbonation followed by the tingle of alcohol heat. This beer is bold, with brazen flavors of toasted malts, oats, chocolate, soy sauce, and doughy yeast. Finish is super long and the end has a well-defined, bitter and astringent cut along with a boozy kick. Although the beer drinks more like an imperial stout than a brown ale, it is masculine, strong and in-your-face in terms of both alcohol strength and flavors. Immensely enjoyable. 93

 

To:Øl Dangerously Close to Stupid Imperial IPA, ABV 9.3%, Denmark

The beer pours a hazy, golden apricot color with a very thick head that just perpetuates with fine lacing. There are definitely yeast particulates floating in the brew, but that doesn't matter. This is basically a hop bomb from To:Øl with the nose dominated by floral hops, sweet bready malts, plenty of citrus, and honey. Despite the warning, the beer drinks very easily without any perceptible alcohol. On the palate, there is a sweet, toasty backbone of melon, caramel, rose jam, grains and honeycomb. Despite how heavy the beer sounds, the acidity from the citrus oils and bitter hops sure keep things light. Meanwhile, the body itself is thinnish as the delicate carbonation helps make it an easy drink. Finish is very good with a toasty, citrus bitters note, very much similar to that of a grapefruit rind. I really like this as it is a very good example of a DIPA - strong enough to bring out the flavors and subtleties, yet still easy enough to quaff without making you fall off your chair. Therefore, this is another "slippery slope". 92

 

 

 

 

North Coast Brewing Company Barrel Aged Old Rasputin XVIII Aged in Rye Whiskey, Russian Imperial Stout, ABV 11.3%, California

Although this is a Blond, the alcohol and color surely indicate otherwise. At 10.5%, the beer pours a hazy, dark amber/orange color with a dense, thick head. The carbonation just dissipates mildly, leaving behind a decent amount of lacing. On the nose, this brew smells of flowers, bananas, sweet apples, spice, honey, and dried fruits. In fact, such a floral and fruity nose actually evokes similarities to a Tripel or a seasonal Belgian winter beer (such as Kasteel). On the palate, the structure is bold, rustic and creamy. Surprisingly, the high alcohol strength is masked very well behind the veil of richness and does not yield the slightest indication of warmth. Yet despite the sweetness, the beer is well-balanced and easily drinkable. Just like the nose, there are flavors of sweet apples, caramel, roasted malts, honey and Christmas spices. The finish is rather long and the beer ends on a saccharine note. This will go very well with desserts. 92

 

Knee Deep Brewing Company Simtra, Triple IPA, ABV 11.25%, California

Really spectacular effort from Knee Deep, even better than the Hopraillo Triple IPA from the same brewers. This Triple pours a deep golden color and a thin head that leaves remarkable lacing around the glass. As expected, this is a hop bomb and the nose is incredibly floral and concentrated. There is just so much going on with layers upon layers of pine, hop oils, grapefruits, orange zest, tropical fruits and sweet malts. As expected from the ABV, the body is bold, full and smooth with just a minor touch of heat and light carbonation. Alcohol hits the palate first, followed by flavors of intense hops, straw, grapefruit oil, and copious amounts of rounded sweet malts. The finish is long and bitter with the hops keeping things dry and not overly cloying, just like citrus peel. Despite the alcohol, this brew is so remarkably crisp and tasty, so much so that it warrants an honorable mention in the “slippery slope” category. 95

 

 

 

 

 

Ommegang Tripel Perfection, Belgian Tripel, ABV 8.9%, New York

It is certainly ironic that this beer from New York is probably one of the best Tripels, traditionally brewed by Belgian monks, I have ever had. Ommegang’s take on the Belgian Tripel style focuses on extracting fruity phenols and malty sweetness from the yeasts themselves. And to compliment the style, the brewery added additional spice to boost the flavors. The end result is a beer that pours a hazy amber color with a thick, foamy head. The nose itself is the archetypal Tripel nose. I pick up a lot of bananas, citrus zest, honey, melon, anise, bready yeasts and malts. Structure-wise, this brew has a creamy consistency with delicate, soft carbonation. The alcohol strength is just masked so well. Meanwhile, the palate supports the nose and boasts notes of malts, honey, orange, tropical fruits, cloves and yeast. Finish is rather long and the brew ends in a complex, fruity and malty note. This hits all the hallmarks of a great Belgian Tripel – light enough to be refreshing without the alcohol heat biting, yet at the same time complex enough that allows you to ruminate and dissect the distinct layers of flavors and aromas. This is probably as good as it gets. 93

 

Brouwerij Van Steenberge Piraat, Belgian Blonde Ale, ABV 10.5%, Belgium

Although this is a Blond, the alcohol and color surely indicate otherwise. At 10.5%, the beer pours a hazy, dark amber/orange color with a dense, thick head. The carbonation just dissipates mildly, leaving behind a decent amount of lacing. On the nose, this brew smells of flowers, bananas, sweet apples, spice, honey, and dried fruits. In fact, such a floral and fruity nose actually evokes similarities to a Tripel or a seasonal Belgian winter beer (such as Kasteel). On the palate, the structure is bold, rustic and creamy. Surprisingly, the high alcohol strength is masked very well behind the veil of richness and does not yield the slightest indication of warmth. Yet despite the sweetness, the beer is well-balanced and easily drinkable. Just like the nose, there are flavors of sweet apples, caramel, roasted malts, honey and Christmas spices. The finish is rather long and the beer ends on a saccharine note. This will go very well with desserts. 92

 

 

 

 

 

Brasserie Dubuisson Cuvee des Trolls Triple, Belgian Strong Pale Ale, ABV 7.5%, Belgium

Now switching gears to heavier beers. This 7% Belgian pale ale pours a hazy, bourbon color with a short head that fades very quickly without leaving much lacing behind. On the nose, this beer smells more like a farmhouse ale than a pale ale. The nose is rather green and there is a distinct tartness (think Granny Smith apples) that is supported by notes of citrus, hay, malts, brett and a little funk. It is certainly interesting that the nose does not feature much hops. On the palate, the ale is light in body and displays much carbonation. Hops are much more discernible now along with citrus, spice, grains, malts and yeast. The finish is somewhat on the light side with remarkable acidity in the end. Although not bad, the beer has nothing particular to write home about either. This tastes like a Stella and a Dogfish Head 60 Minute mixed together – not really my style. 82

 

 

 

 

 

Mikkeller Peter, Pale and Mary, American Pale Ale, ABV 4.6%, Denmark

As is typical of light beers, this pale ale pours a hazy, golden orange color with a frothy head which recedes very slowly, leaving delicate lacing on the glass as it goes. On the nose, the bouquet is enticing. There is a concentrated aroma of citrus, tropical fruits like mangoes, grapefruits, grass, malts and faint hop oils. Meanwhile, the palate is just as promising with a light and frothy, carbonated body. Flavor-wise, hops take over and are supported by notes of citrus oils, sweet stone fruits, pine, and malts. Finish is rather linear and short but that is expected given the ABV and the style of the beer. Despite the lack of complexity, I still find this very enjoyable as it is straightforward, tasty and immensely refreshing. Standard stuff from Mikkeller, done very well. 87

 

2014 Dogfish Head 120 Minute IPA, Imperial IPA, ABV 18%, Delaware

Being so high in alcohol content, the beer pours a dark amber, almost honey, color with minimal head. On the nose, the beer packs a bouquet of apricots, dried fruits, pralines, spice, caramel malts, honey roasted nuts, and even some dried fruits. Surprisingly, there is only a faint trace of hops despite this being an IPA. On the palate, the structure is thick, unctuous and creamy with an alcoholic bite, which is a good thing as it brings out flavors of roasted cashews, raisins, malts, dried apricots and hop oils. This beer is definitely a lot sweeter than it is hoppy and bitter. The finish is very long, almost brooding in fact with a strong malty note. It is only towards the very end do I detect a bitter and dark-chocolate-like astringency. Compared to the 2015, this definitely shows how one year of aging can subdue the hop profile by so much. Had I not been told, I would probably even classify this as a hoppy barleywine rather than an all-out IPA. 97

2015 Dogfish Head 120 Minute IPA, Imperial IPA, ABV 18%, Delaware

Just like the 2014, the 2015 Dogfish Head 120 Minute IPA pours an amber color with minimal head. Compared to the 2014, the color in the 2015 is slightly lighter. On the nose, the beer is noticeably fresher with a more fruit forward nose. The bouquet is certainly fresher and packs a citrus punch with higher focus on hop oils. This is supported by tertiary notes of nuts, soy, honey, lemon zest and spice. The body of the beer is just as thick and creamy, though as the beer is younger, there is more noticeable carbonation. The alcoholic bite is certainly stronger as well. With it comes notes of toasty malts, citrus oils, hops essence, pine and spice before a honeyed sweetness rounds thing out. The finish is also very long and ends in a hoppy and smoky note with a malty and sweet undertone. Compared to the 2014, this is certainly brighter and displays more vibrancy. I can certainly classify this as an Imperial IPA. Juxtaposing the two bottles, this experiment certainly shows what a year of aging can do to the development of tertiary flavors, alcohol strength and hop profile. And in this case, it shows us that the beers can vary so much as if they are two different styles of beer with just a year of aging. What is left is only a matter of preference. 96 

2014 Dogfish Head Raison d'Extra, Belgian Strong Dark Ale, ABV 18%, Delaware

Compared with the previous two, the Raison d'Extra pours an even darker color - dark amber which borderlines line on the color of Coke. Somewhat hazy as well. As with the previous two Dogfish Heads, the high alcohol content stunts carbonation and the beer pours with no head at all. The nose smells just like what the name suggests - concentrated with plenty of raisins, blackcurrant, Christmas fruit cake (Stollen), nuts, spice and even some sherry. On the palate, while the structure is thick and unctuous with slight carbonation, the alcohol certainly bites. There are flavors of spice, ginger, toasted malts, brown sugar, caramel and dried fruits. The finish is long and lingering with a finish of thick raisins flavors - smoky and sweet. Crazy, and honestly crazy good as well. Though for me, I feel that this certainly drinks a lot more like a Quadrupel rather than a brown ale. The flavor and scent profile certainly points to it. 94

2014 Founders KBS (Kentucky Breakfast Stout), ABV 11.2%, Imperial Stout, Michigan

The last of the quartet, and certainly the heaviest in flavor the weakest in alcohol strength. This beer pours a pitch black color, almost like old engine oil, with moderate carbonation. The nose screams of roasted coffee beans, which are supported by a bouquet of smoke, chocolate, bourbon, pralines and toffee. As the nose suggests, the palate demonstrates a creamy and unctuous structure lifted by the heady carbonation. Even more coffee dominate the palate, followed by some sweetness in dark fruits, chocolate, caramel malts, vanilla and bourbon. Finish is long, smoky and sweet. Just like good coffee, the beer ends with a lingering, astringent bite from the coffee. Interestingly enough, although there is a distinct booziness to the nose, the alcohol is rather well-masked and this beer drinks pretty easily. Definitely plus one to the "slippery slope" category. 94


Wine

Michel Fallon Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Ozanne, 2005, disgorged 2014, Avize, Champagne

The only wine released from the Fallon champagne house. This growers, Chardonnay-only bubbly pours a golden straw color with microscopic bubbles and medium legs. Judging by this profile, I already have high expectations from the only wine from the protege of Jacques Selosse. On the nose, the bouquet is mesmerizing. Honey, brioche, toast, Granny Smith, lemon peel, oak and fresh cut grass come in waves after waves. On the palate, the mousse is delicate and the effervescence provides a distinct structure which is dominated by a distinct mineral backbone. There are notes of citrus, honey, lemon curd and almonds as well as tertiary notes of smoke towards the end. What strikes me is the moderate to low acidity in this wine. Despite this, the finish is astringent yet super long, lasting almost 45 seconds. Just like the Krug, there is a distinct cut in the end too. Superb stuff. This champagne definitely vouches for the pedigree and quality of the producer. 94

 

 

 

2011 Domaine Roulot Auxey-Duresses Blanc, Auxey-Duresses, Burgundy

The wine is popped and pours a slick, pale golden straw color with moderately long legs. The first whiff of the nose brings about all my fear - cork taint. Luckily with time, the problem seems to have abated and the bouquet shines through. Notes of citrus, banana flambe and honeysuckle shine through along with faint notes of butter. On the palate, the wine is unctuous and well-structured. Acidity and mineral content are both high, giving the wine a boost of freshness and a defined cut. Flavors of citrus, lemon oils, fresh cut grass, wet stones, water chestnuts and buttermilk are all present. The alcohol is slightly strong in this one which leaves a warm sensation towards the end. Nonetheless, the finish is quite long despite the brazen freshness. This may only be a village wine, but it certainly drinks a class above the designation. This mere fact truly shows the quality of the producer. 92

 

2000 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Reserve, Champagne

The wine is popped and immediately served right after. Showing the first signs of age, this champagne pours a deep golden color with tiny bubbles and rather long legs. On the nose is a mixture of marzipan, apple chips, cinnamon, honey, lemon, grass and toasty brioche. The doughy yeast is particularly present too. The palate tells a familiar tale as well, with the wine flaunting an unctuous and thick structure with a precise, mineral streak. Despite the expansive structure, there is great balance indeed. Bubbles are light and effervescence is minimal. Flavors of granny smith apples, honey, lemon curd, toast and earthy mushrooms are there and on point. Despite the acidity being somewhat low, the finish is rather long with a clean, distinct cut in the end. 91

 

 

 

 

 

 

1975 Weingut J.G. Orb Westhofener Kirchspiel Silvaner/Müller-Thurgau Kabinett, Rheinhessen

The wine has aged beautifully and pours a deep auburn, amber color with medium legs. The nose has an unmistakable petrol scent, with other notes of plastic, tropical fruits such as roasted pineapples and peaches, cloves, honey, fresh cut grass, and citrus peel. On the palate, the wine is unctuous without being too cloying. Interestingly enough, there is an Earl Grey-type of tannic structure to it. Despite the residual sugar being somewhat low, this is still a palate of honey, vanilla curd, lemon tea, spice and pecans. Towards the end, the wine even exhibits some spice and bite. The finish itself is of medium length with a citrus bitterness and an astringent cut. Not sure what to make of it, but this is rather enjoyable. 85