Vegas. The name itself conjures feelings of opulence, lavishness, glitz, glamor and decadence. From the landmarks on the Strip to those off Strip, everyone is trying to get lucky in this culture of extravagance. And as one can expect, the high-end restaurants here are over-the-top. Guy Savoy. Joel Robuchon. These established names seek to satiate and indulge every whim of their patrons in classic French fare. Like them, é ranks as one of the top fine dining spots on the Strip. But unlike them, this whimsical establishment serves to push the boundaries of dining, conceptually, through the advanced cooking (or scientific?) techniques of José Andrés, a protégé under the tutelage of Ferran Adrià of the now-defunct elBulli.
Luxury implies exclusivity. And é adequately fulfills that role, starting all the way back from the reservation system. The reservation confirmation comes in via a golden ticket in the mail, just like the ones in Willy Wonka's fictitious Chocolate Factory. With tickets in hand, I step into the dining room, a small enclave within a larger restaurant (Jaleo) serving rustic tapas and paella. Being seated across a horseshoe-shaped bar, ten diners are entertained nightly. The bar itself boasts curved edges and a reflective, golden coat of paint that casts off glitz and shine from the soft, red light beams above. Behind the bar is a counter, where a team of 3 chefs reside, prep and plate the food in front of the diners. What is about to happen is not a dinner, but a magic show.
Reservations a la Willy Wonka.
Whilst waiting for the whole party of ten guests to arrive, we are presented with the first amuse bouche of the evening.
"Branches of the Dessert" - Kalamata Black Olive Sticks with Wild Edible Flowers
A rather poetic name; and the food does not slouch either. Settled on a bed rocks are two gnarled black twigs dotted with flowers. Biting down, the cracker sticks exude a heady olive scent. The dabs of red puree is certainly as interesting to see as they are tasty. The flowers add a deft touch to bring the crackers to live to resemble the wild nature of Vegas, that is, a lot of sand with paltry wild life.
As we finish nibbling on the sticks, the box is whisked away. In turn, a whole acrylic hand of José Andrés is laid in front of us. In it holds a bouquet garni of Meditteranean herbs wrapped in a wet towel. The presentation is theatrical as it is thoughtful, and arguably the most over-the-top towel presentation I have ever encountered.
"The Perfect Bite" - A Cocktail of Cherry Pearls, Fresh Mint, Red Wine Sangria, Compressed Watermelon
Again, it is the thoughtful presentation that wins it for me. What better way to serve sangria than to serve it in red wine bottles, split down the middle lengthwise? Spooning the multiple elements together, I get flavors of wine, fruits and plenty of spice. The temperature is blisteringly cold, so much so that I get a bit of brain freeze after every bite thanks to the liquid nitrogen. The watermelon is absurdly sweet and a tad chewy. The texture contrasts well with those crunchy pearls. This is tasty and interesting, but it does not wow me.
A trio of cheeses followed.
"Beet Rose" - Beet and Manchego Rose, Walnut Raisin Wafer
Beet juice and manchego cheese are mixed, whipped, and piped in the shape of a rose onto a singular walnut raisin wafer. The presentation of the rose is truly spectacular, as the color of which closely resembles real pink roses. It is then dusted with dehydrated (beet?) juice. Biting down, the sweet, earthy beet flavors are immediately apparent. They are moderated by the umami and savoriness from the cheese. The winner for me is the wafer as it is just so impeccably thin!
"Stones" - Idiazabal, Jamon Iberico, Rosemary Oil
First the presentation - it really looks like a minuscule version of the ubiquitous New York Black and White cookies. But this is savory, and so mind-bogglingly good. A pebble-shaped pellet of Idiazabal cheese (from Basque region) is glazed in a layer of jamon iberico fat and rosemary oil. The cheese is decadently creamy but not abrasive. The flavors harmonize with the porcine flavors of the ham and the specks of spice from the herb. This bite is rich, but it also seems very light as the "stone" is airy and devoid of mass.
"Spanish Pizza Margherita" - San Simon Crema, Freeze Dried Tomatoes
San Simon (a type of smoked cow cheese) is beat into a cream and dotted on yet another wafer thin crisp. Accompanying those dots are specs of freeze-dried tomatoes and slivers of micro-basil. I am not going to lie. This looks like doll house food, especially since the pizza is encased in an accompanying pizza box. The level of detail is truly respectable. Looks aside, this truly conjures up the typical flavors of a margherita pizza. Zesty, smoky, umami and spicy all at the same time. What I truly like is that despite the concentrated pizza flavors, this bite does not boast much mass, unlike those hefty pies that one would commonly find in pizza parlors.
"Wonderbread" - Apple Meringue, Foie Gras, Harry's Berries
This is arguably the most wonderful, whimsical, mind blowing and tasty dish of the night. Apple meringue is molded into the shape of white bread, replete with a browned exterior to resemble bread crust. Sandwiched in between these two "slices of bread" is the most decadent foie gras mousse and the most succulent of strawberries from Harry's Berries. These berries are famous and arguably the best in the world. Hailing from California, they are shipped daily to the restaurant. The mousse is concentrated, luxurious and airy, which pairs well with the crispy, ethereal meringue in texture. The strawberry slices act as the most fitting counterpoint to the liver given the sweetness and light acidity. The pictures make this sandwich seem small. But in reality, it is anything but and I am all the more happy to munch down on this whimsical, playful and delicious creation.
"Pan Con Tomate" - Espuma of Tomato Water and Olive Oil, Jamon Iberico, Air Bread
This is a very modern take on the Catalan classic of bread with tomato spread. Instead of a normal slice of toasted baguette or the equivalent, the Chef uses what he calls "Air Bread", essentially a pastry with only the crispy shell and a hollow interior. In place of dough, the center is piped with an espuma of tomato water and olive oil. The extraction of tomato flavors is very intense and this helps with the flavor profile. I also get a distinct acorn flavor from the jamon. This is a pretty tasty bite that showcases attention to details. But it does not wow me.
"Chupuito Sphere" - White Wine Sparkling Sangria with Nectarines and Mint
For those who experiences spherification for the first time, this may be surprising. But not so for me. With the bubbles and refreshing fruits and herbs, this bite is a proper palate cleanser. But nothing more than that. Bonus points for serving this fresh so the outer coat is not rubbery at all.
"Uni and Lardo Cracker" - Hokkaido Uni, Iberico Lardo
Arguably a deconstructivist's take on sushi. And a very good one at that. The base, which has a texture of rice crispies, is actually made of dehydrated sea urchin. It is so crispy that I would have mistaken it for tempura batter, had it not been the subtle saline flavors. These echinoderms are then filled into square molds and fried. Layered on top the base are tongues of fresh Hokkaido sea urchin and a slice of translucent lardo from Iberico pigs. The flavors of the bite switch between seawater salinity and seafood sweetness, tempered by the umami from the pig fat. With that many expensive ingredients, it is hard to disappoint.
"Esparragos Escabeche" - Holland White Asparagus, Escabeche Air, Sasanian Royal Oseitra Cavia, Frozen Egg Yolks
Instead of serving one gigantic, thick white asparagus, the creative team uses a bundle of lanky, tender spears instead. The spears are then cooked in unison and the entire bundle is sliced so that each diner gets a cross section. The vegetable is succulent and delicately sweet. I appreciate the woody and greenness of flavors too. The texture is on point as the spear segments yield to the bite. That said, I cannot really taste the cured egg yolks, nor the escabeche, within the melange of flavors. What I do get though, are the pricks of salinity from the caviar. Nothing too fancy here. But the technique in preparation and harmony in flavors are quite impressive
"Txangurro a la Donostiarra" - Dungeness Crab with Spanish Sofrita, Crab Broth, Toasted Panko Bread Crumbs
Very theatrical presentation as the crab is served a la thermidor within its shell. This is a solid contestant for being the best dish of the night. Essentially a deconstructed crab cake, the dish is prepared by boiling Oregon Dungeness crabs and then picking out their meat. The remaining shells are then fried and brewed to make the broth. As can be imagined, the broth is extremely, superbly concentrated, the flavor of which resembles that of lobster e-fu noodles served during Cantonese wedding banquets. The salinity in the liquid interplays naturally with the inherent sweetness of the fresh. You do get some crunch from the accouterments as textural contrasts too. Just wow.
"Gambas Naturales" - Lemon Pith and Mayonnaise Espuma, Santa Barbara Spot Prawns
In addition to sea urchin, Santa Barbara is famous for producing spot prawns too. And these specimens are no slouch. Plump, fat and juicy, this crustacean is packed of oceanic sweetness and a snappy consistency. The tomalley is concentrated and is bursting with prawn essence too. It is rich, unctuous, and packed full of umami. Though the prawn is served with mildly acidic sauces, I do not find them necessary at all. The prawn, from tail to head, is delicious as is. Mi cuit.
"Foie Royale" - Australian Summer Truffles, Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Plum, Almond Milk
The plating is beautiful and every element is well thought-out on this dish. The chicken jus gel brings umami, while the plum slices add zing, and the almond milk yields sweetness and nuttiness to balance out the richness of the foie. The texture is rich and airy too, much like that of molten tofu. And shavings of truffles. What can go wrong with tubers on livers?
"Platija" - Fluke, Chicken and Pork Base, Chicken Jus
This is the Chef's take on "surf and turf". A large piece of fluke, served seared, is rested on a pile of minced pork and chicken. The meats, coupled with the overly extracted chicken jus that has the consistency of demi-glace, if not treacle, pair well with the meatiness of the fluke. In particular, the fats in the mince contrast with the flesh of the fish. That said, I do find the sauce over-extracted to the point of being too salty. Also, given the previous hits, this dish seems a bit lacking in originality and imagination. The feeling I get is that this is a "filler" dish to add substance to the meal.
"Fricando" - Australian Wagyu Beef Cheek, Pine Nuts Praline, Morels, Gnocchi
As the name suggests, these are your prototypical beef cheeks. They are first sous-vide (?) and then finished off on the stove. The reduction screams of bovine flavors and the morels act as a natural complement with their earthiness. The most impressive part on the plate is the gnocchi, as they are essentially elongated spheres of potato puree which uses the same technique shown in the sparkling sangria. Just like the previous dish, this is yet another "filler" to add substance. Alas, the sauce is too salty for me as well
"Empanada" - Foie Gras and Corn Nuts
This is the last contender for being the best bite of the night. In lieu of a tortilla, the team creates empanadas out of cotton candy. To do that, they push candy threads, along with the filling, into a mold and press it tightly to form the dumplings. The result is mesmerizing, playful and tasty. Texture-wise, the exterior feels like felt cloth. Biting down reveals alternating textures of luxuriously smooth foie and brittle corn nuts. There is so much going on with the flavors too as the shell gives candied sweetness, while the foie is gamey and the corn nuts are saline. That interplay within the taste and texture realms is mind-boggling. And all these seemingly incoherent ideas get distilled into this toy-shaped dumpling that rests in my hand. It is really hard to fathom what type of playground José Andrés's mind is.
This is the perfect segue between the savory and sweet courses as the empanada possesses both.
"Miel Y Mato" - Ricotta, Honey Gelee, Hazelnut Praline, Brown Butter Croutons, Walnut Cream
The first of five dessert courses. With the emphasis on the hazelnut pralines, this dish is essentially a deconstructed Ferrero Roche. The flavors are what you would expect from the list of ingredients. I particularly enjoy the honey gelee as the waxy flavor is quite apparent. I also like the balance in the sugar department as the dessert, though somewhat rich, is by no means sweet. Very good start.
"Intxaursaltsa" - Walnut Cream, Fresh Cherries, Walnut Praline, Strawberries and Cream
This is a rather whimsical dish again as walnut pieces do not visually resemble their forms. The walnut is actually made of walnut cream, while the walnut shell is crafted from walnut pralines. Surprisingly, the nuttiness goes well with the fruity luxuriousness of the strawberry and cream snow. I particularly enjoy the cherry slices too as the acidity from the stone fruit, along with the cool temperature, helps prevent this dish from being super cloying. Very nice.
"Flan" - Vanilla Custard, Bitter Caramel, Orange Syrup, Spanish Snow
Instead of a traditional custard plopped onto caramel, the flan is set with gelatin inside a hollow, metal tube. Prior to serving, the team of chefs cut the tubular custard into three segments and plate them. I like the bitter caramel sauce, which goes well with the paired rum that is brewed with coffee beans, cinnamon sticks and lemon zest for 20 minutes over open flame. The custard itself is smooth and viscous, while the refreshing citrus flavors help maintain balance. For me though, it is still a bit too syrupy and cloying. Tasty, but I cannot go past more than a few bites. The rum coffee, I do finish every single drop of it.
A duo of one-piece dessert bites then followed.
"Turrón" - Almond Ice Cream Cup, Marcona Almonds
To mimic the traditional Spanish childhood memory, Chef Andrés recreates this almond ice cream cup in miniature form, replete with a marcona almond encased in a cloth of 20 karat gold. The texture of the custard is nutty yet exquisitely smooth. The ice cream is not too sweet as well so points for that. Not sure why but there is a cheesy salinity to it. Very tasty nonetheless.
"Cherry Bomb" - Cherry Vinegar, Ginger, Merlot Cherry Puree
Unlike the sphered sparkling Sangria, this chocolate sphere is not dropped into a calcium chloride bath. Instead, the molten center is encased in a chocolate shell. As the shell bursts, the liquid interior gushes out, revealing a bitter, spicy and astringent mixture. Though I do not quite get the vinegar, the kirsch flavors are particularly strong in this. Very good.
"More Things"
A trio of one-bite desserts comes about as the meal concludes.
Freeze-dried Nectarines with Nougat - Dipped in liquid nitrogen, the citrus segment is crispy with a muted acidity and salinity that runs throughout. This is nice, almost ethereal and disappears as quickly as from whence it came.
Chocolate and Maldon Salt Tablet - Not much here but a prototypical chocolate nugget with a stab of salinity.
Gin and Tonic Marshmallow - Just like the nectarine, this is dipped into liquid nitrogen too. This is more on the sweet end with a bit of acidity. Refreshing and fleeting, almost like those Listerine sheets.
"After Eight"
The meal concludes with the most whimsical, playful bites. Hidden inside a mint bush are mint chocolate leaves. Diners are to dig through the bush with tweezers and rummage for the chocolates. This is an ingenuous play on the British After Eight chocolate thins. Though the chocolate leaves are quite ordinary, the playful nature of the presentation deserves special mention. Plus, this is perfect with coffee.
Wow. What an exquisite meal, or dare I say, show. From start to finish, we are all taken care of intimately as the team puts on a mesmerizing performance that deserves rounds and rounds of applause. Many restaurants these days pride themselves in "molecular gastronomy" cooking techniques. Yet many of them either fail to make an impact in terms of "wow factor", or fail to make the guests feel satiated, intellectually or physically otherwise. Other times, the restaurant may create such cerebral dishes that diners feel hard to relate. Worse yet, some restaurants charge exorbitant amounts just to ride on the hip bandwagon but fail on all accounts. In this respect, é by José Andrés truly hits it out of the park by creating a modest (though by no means cheap), thoughtful, whimsical and playful menu. Not only do I feel full, but I also get to peer into the culinary philosophies and experience the technical precision of the great Catalan chef. Most importantly, I can relate to many of the dishes served albeit them presented in groundbreaking ways. This meal is truly a spectacle. I will wait till the menu changes substantially and come back to wow myself in due time. Until then. (6/8/2017)