Tucked in the quaint Williamsburg neighborhood is Okonomi, a place that serves up traditional Japanese fare for breakfast and dinner. At night, it transforms itself into the home of Yuji Ramen, a shop that is famous for its fish-based ramen stock. As I have time on my hands during the day, I merrily travel over in the late lunch hours on a Tuesday afternoon, only to find a short wait that resolves itself not long after. Without a single placard or any sign of indication, the exterior of the shop is rather nondescript and is easy to miss. Inside though, the shop is classically traditional in decor. On one side is a wooden-paneled wall, which stands opposite to another one that is composed of black slate. Wooden counter tops, along with earthen crockery and horizontally laid chopsticks, all scream of quintessential Japanese fare.
(Photo credit: LT)
Service is attentive enough, as we are greeted by a cup of hearty, warming hojicha (ほうじ茶) upon sitting down at the counter top. It is worth mentioning that the cup of tea is always full, an indication of attention to small details. On another note, I am surprised to find that the place has no menu. Instead, our waitress rattles off a somewhat whimsical list of items which are difficult to follow. Upon further clarification, the ichiju-sansai (一汁三菜) menu works by having the diner select the main dish amongst three daily options. Today, it is sake kasu (酒粕) marinated tuna, shioyaki (塩焼き) bluefish, and shioyaki tilefish. The main is then supported by a cast of three daily sides, a bowl of multi-grain rice, and a generous bowl of miso soup. There is also an additional three optional, fairly-priced sides, which include fermented tofu, onsen egg (温泉卵) and uni (ウニ). As I am rather hungry, I pick the tilefish and the additional sides of uni and onsen egg. Everything, inclusive of tax and tip, comes to a modest 30 USD flat. This is a very solid deal. On with the food!
Tavertine counter tops make for appetizing pictures.
Soup and Rice
As a Cantonese, I like to start the meal off with some soup to whet my appetite. This soup certainly does its job. Hearty, fresh and bursting with umami, the soup is a nice smack to waken up the taste buds. The nice crunchy scallions (or is it another diced vegetable?) receives a requisite tempering from the kombu. Towards the end, I even see some grains in the dredges. I wonder what that is, as this bowl of soup is absolutely delicious.
Meanwhile, the multi-grain rice is adorned with a dollop of crushed, dried sardines (or is it bonito?). Delicious as it is healthy, the grain itself is steamed al dente. Meanwhile, the condiment provides delicate salinity, which makes the rice extremely palatable on its own.
Main and Sides
The tile fish is expertly grilled as it boasts a deliciously flaky and crispy skin and a pool of fragrant fish oils beneath the hunk of flesh. Biting down, the white fish flakes off, yielding droplets of pungent fats unabashedly. Though the fish is somewhat under-seasoned, the meat itself is very fresh and this accentuates the tasting experience. 美味しい!
Judging by appearance, the pickles consist of cauliflower, watermelon radishes, daikon (大根), carrots and cabbages. Crunchy yet supple, the vegetables are delectable as they boast vibrant acidity and moderating umami. As the flavors of the underlying ingredients are still present, my guess is that the vegetables are pickled for a short period of time.
The blanched broccoli rabe, though simply prepared, boasts freshness and flavors of spring. Served with a dollop of shira-ae? (白和え), the vegetable retains its vibrant color and crunch. The accompanying sesame-based sauce adds clean richness to the vegetables.
Finally, the tamago yaki (玉子焼き) deserves particular mention. This is the first time I have ever seen this ubiquitous egg dish served with a brûléed top. Encased within the crunchy, saccharine crust is a bite of supple, sweet, and Jello-like eggs. It is almost like biting into a block of Turkish Delight. Flavor-wise, the egg alternates between whispering umami and subtle sweetness. This is arguably the most memorable bite of the dish.
That pool of oozing, Omega-3 rich fish fats. Love it.
Egg and Eggs
Sitting swimmingly in a pool of dashi is a perfectly soft-boiled egg an a generous serving of uni. Dusted with a dash of shichimi togarashi (七味唐辛子), the egg offers succulent richness that is tempered by the brine of the sea urchin. Though the ingredients are luxurious, this dish is just what you would expect. I am slightly surprised to find the dashi a bit sweet. Perhaps the restaurant uses sweet soy and mirin (?). Either way, I find the accompanying sauce too sweet as it masked the delicate flavors of the uni. My dining companion, however, likes the dish very much and thinks the flavors are on point.
Egg(s) porn and sweet soy. A winning combination.
In all, this is an enjoyable and pleasant dining experience, given that the ingredients are delicious as they are healthy. Although this is a short post, it is clear from the pictures that the restaurant serves up simple, integrous and authentic food. Coupled with the meal's price point, I have unreserved big props for this neighborhood spot. It is not hard to imagine that this charming, picturesque restaurant, which only seats 12 at one time, would experience long lines that wrap around the block on weekends. I cannot wait to come back again to try other menu offerings. (2017/04/18)
All packed up and ready to go.