This is a long overdue post. Alas, GMAT and MBA apps took up a lot of my time in the past half a year. But thankfully they are done now and I have time to look back and organize my pictures and notes.
This place used to host Vicky Cheng a few years ago. It was here that he struck fame within the Hong Kong dining scene with the creation of Liberty Private Works. Since, he has parted ways and gone on to open his new venture VEA Restaurant and Bar. Inhabiting this empty space now is 26 by Liberty. Helming this spot is Chris Keung, a chef who hails from the same college as Chef Cheng. Stepping into the restaurant, it is nice to see that the previous incarnation's decor is kept in its entirety, in particular that horseshoe shaped dining bar. I particularly like this design as it makes for an intimate and interactive dining experience.
Upon advice from an old classmate whom I met in New York, who runs the kitchen at 26 now, I decide to give it a try. The meal, of course, is nothing short of great, at least until the desserts arrive. The hospitality side of the business is equally impressive and littered with details. For example, there are two temperatures of tap water. Or how about petite square-shaped mats for placing your phone on the counter? The front of house even uses tongs to pick up used hand towels. All these minute details show a dedication towards excellence.
On to the food. This is a tasting menu only restaurant at 800 a pop. Not bad at all as far as pricing is concerned.
"Ham and Egg" - Smoked Quail's Egg, 36 Month Iberico Ham, Ikura, Citrus Powder, Black Garlic Puree
This is a bite of molten, gooey joy smack full of umami. The smoke, the ham, the salmon roe and the garlic all contribute plenty of savoriness to the bite. Interestingly enough, despite the robust tasting ingredients, I do not get an overwhelming sense of saltiness. Rather, there is balance, as the sweetness from the black garlic wrestles with the salinity from the ham and the smoke on the egg. I also like the contrasting textures between the liquid yolk and the popping notes of the roe. Fantastic bite to start off the meal.
"Radish" - Heirloom Radishes, Crab, Nasturtium
This is my friend's signature dish on the menu. Using black and purple radish slices, he encases crab mousse within the slices and makes a roulade out of it. Accompanying the crab roll is a green water that is strained from pureed nasturtium leaves. The mousse itself is very meaty and quite substantial in portion. Though Maryland crabs are used rather than local flower crabs (花蟹), which are priced at the whimsical mercy of local vendors, there is still remarkable freshness in the meat despite it having traveled a long way. In fact, the sweetness of the crab pairs well with the astringent freshness in the radish and the spice within the nasturtium leaves. Each ingredient contributes to that unbelievably uplifting freshness on the plate. Very nice.
"Brussels Sprouts" - Hazelnuts, Green Apple
Another one of my buddy's creation, this is essentially a salad of Brussels sprouts done three ways - raw, shaved and charred. Tying the three textures up is a light white balsamic dressing. Though I am not a salad person, I do find this dish tasty as it is harmonious looking. The key here is balance and variety. The crunch from the charred leaves and hazelnuts. The acidity from the dressing. The sweetness from the nuts and the apple slices. All these different facets create bite after bite of pleasure. Now if only this is not so white basic in appearance.
"Duck" - Ravioli, Ricotta, 36 Hour Consomme
Instead of a singular ravioli, this comes in two, or ravioli dopli. One of it is filled with a blend of ricotta and spinach. The other, duck confit. The two dumplings are then topped with a julienne of fried ginger and scallion oil, and then swathed in a hearty consomme. I particularly like the texture of the confit as it is almost molten, an evidence of detailed work with the chinois. The ginger on top certainly adds earthiness to the meat without being too abrasive in flavor. Meanwhile, the other ravioli displays a luxurious tasting ricotta and somewhat muted flavors of spinach. Finally, the soup is the best part. Boasting plenty of anise, the broth is welcoming as it arrives piping hot and packed full of umami. This is great for the frosty weather.
I am not sure what the point is regarding the scallion oil that comes in eyedropper pipettes. Last time I saw these was at Morimoto in Napa Valley and they were absurdly gimmicky. I think the same way now too. Pity as it detracts from an otherwise solid dish.
"Hamachi" - Kombu, Heirloom Tomatoes, Lemon Verbena
The best dish of the night in my opinion by a long shot. The smattering of colors makes this visually appealing; while the multitude of flavors makes this delicious. Six different varietals of tomatoes are served here, all dressed in lemon verbena that is grown in-house. The dish is composed of a base of lemon verbena cream with coconut, a thick slice of hamachi cured in kombu (昆布締め), tomato jelly cubes and olive oil "caviar". The smoke game from the charred fish is very strong and wafts across the restaurant. This charring helps create a delicate texture where the exterior is crispy but the interior retains the inherent oiliness of the fish. Meanwhile, the lemon verbena is exquisitely smooth and not over-whipped. This contributes to the slick, oily texture of the fish, which is counterbalanced by the sweetness, crunch and vibrant acidity of the various strains of tomatoes. Though there are a lot of harmonious flavors in here, I am not sure what the jelly or the caviar contributes, other than for adornment.
"Lobster" - Barley, Whisky Brown Butter, Parsnip
This is the first of the two substantial dishes, and what a dish it is. A generous portion of hommard bleu, tail and claws, is seared mi cuit and perfectly seasoned. Sitting under the shellfish is a bed of pearled barley that is cooked in lobster consomme distilled from the remains of the crustacean carcass. These saline, shellfish-flavored grains go very well with the burnt sweetness of the beurre noisette. Though a somewhat incongruous pairing, it works. The parsnip chips add a new dimension of textures and lends earthiness to the dish. In all, this is a very safe, filling and tasty dish.
"Beef" - Wagyu, Duo, Chimichurri, Maitake, Baby Onion, Celeriac
Two different cuts of wagyu - the cheek and short ribs - are slow cooked for 36 hours. This dish is a study of differing textures of beef and a platitude of flavors. Equally bursting with bovine flavors, the cheek is incredibly tender while short rib is on the stringer side. I particularly appreciate the fact that a moderate amount of fat is left in the beef and not all is rendered off during the cooking process. As for the accouterments, they all scream of umami. The chimichurri sauce is infused with Sichuan peppercorns for a slightly numbing effect. The maitake mushroom adds plenty of earthiness and crisp, thanks to the alternating blasts of heat and cold from the basting. Meanwhile, the onions are pickled in Zhenjiang vinegar (鎮江醋), a black rice-based vinegar. The acidity helps soften the robust flavor profile while adding a distinct layer of sweetness and fragrance, much like that of Peking Pork Ribs (京都骨). All these different elements create a distinctly Asian taste profile boasting of sweetness, sourness, savoriness and spice. A filling and undoubtedly heavy dish. But very delicious and generous, portion-wise, nonetheless.
"Molecular" - Tofu, Honeycomb
As a palate cleanser, this dish cannot be more fitting as it barely contains any mass. Essentially, this is 26's take on the Cantonese classic Sweet Tofu (豆腐花). Instead of actual tofu, a foam of tofu infused with ginger syrup is created by mercilessly beating the tofu liquid and setting with lecithin (?). This creates an insanely airy texture. Instead of yellow sugar which is oft used as a condiment, crumbled honeycomb is sprinkled. Biting down, I get the sweetness as well as the spice from the ginger. But the pest part is the foam as it makes me feel like I am eating clouds. The lightness certainly helps as I am beyond full at this point.
"Sunchoke" - Hazelnut, Caramel, Porcini, Meringue, Ice Cream
This is where it falls apart completely. Other than the sunchoke ice cream, I find the others somewhat unpalatable. The earthiness coupled with the sweetness is too challenging for me to accept. The interior of the porcini cake (mushroom cake, lol?) is dry, while the caramel sauce is too sweet. I like the thought of adding pumpkin seeds for a textural contrast. But this dish is just too weird for me to enjoy.
"Mignardises" - Ginger Bonbon, Mint bonbon, Smoked Beef Fat Caramel, Pistachio Financier, Lemon Zest Madeline, Oversized Raspberry and Cream Cheese Macaron
Some of these are quite good, as I did not eat all of them. The best and most interesting is, arguably, the beef fat caramel. I like the unctuousness of the bite without it being too fat nor too sweet. Meanwhile, the financier boasts of a crusty exterior and a fluffy interior. The faintest whisper of lemon zest in the baked finger cake makes for a refreshing conclusion to the meal.
This is an enjoyable meal. At this price point, I think there certainly is value for money, as evinced by the serving of one whole lobster per person. Does it live up to the bygone era of Liberty Private Works? Not quite. But is the food carefully prepared and precisely executed? Undoubtedly so. The flavor pairings are generally quite classic and the preparation techniques are safe. But behind the food, I see a lot of thought in the menu design. For example, radish, an inherently turgid, crunchy, juicy root vegetable, can add plenty of freshness to the crab. Or how about letting the glutamate in the tomatoes have a go at that inside the kombu? This is precisely what my friend excels at, tying ingredients of the same vein and marrying them on the plate, so the flavors can meld and complement one another. And to see him accomplish that feat here at 26, is quite a spectacle indeed. (1/6/2017)