A somewhat new-comer to the New York sushi scene, David Bouhadana is famous for being the brains, and the hands, behind Sushi Dojo, a place renowned for its competitively priced omakase menu. Sadly, because of moronic judgment (are there even any high-end sushi chefs who wear gloves across the world?) from the Department of Health, Sushi Dojo was closed down last year, prompting Bouhadana to part ways with the establishment. The saga only came to an end when the chef decided to start afresh with his new venture Nishiwaki, slated to open in late 2016.
While all this is happening, Bouhadana recently partnered up with Derek Feldman to open a pop-up omakase spot in the newly-built micro food alley, The Bowery Market. Aside from a similarly price menu (i.e.: 50 USD for 12 pieces), Sushi on Jones, as it is called, is a far cry from Dojo. Firstly, the restaurant is outdoors and only seats four people. Forget about seats with back rests as they are now replaced by wooden stools. Diners eat at a short wooden bar and the space is somewhat cramped. Secondly, although I do see David behind the bar, he is not the one handing me the pieces. Thirdly, the dining time limit is fixed at a somewhat unaccommodating 30 minutes, nothing more and nothing less. This roughly translates to 2.5 minutes per piece as soon as I am seated. And despite the fixed time slots, there is still a 1.5 hour wait on a Wednesday evening. All these characteristics truly remind me of those high-end sushi-yas one would find in the metro stations in Tokyo. Tiny space and nondescript entrances. But I am here for the food, so what the hell?
The service is rather nice and treated my dining partner and I each a side of seaweed salad and a glass of sake. Although both of them are nothing to write home about, this is a friendly gesture on the house and I appreciate it very much. As implied, the menu is fixed and soon the pieces come raiding down.
Yellowtail - Hamachi 【鰤】
Certainly surprising to see this piece being served first as yellowtail is an oily and heavily-flavored (重口) fish. This is a good specimen. Adequately luscious and deliciously fishy with marked spice from the scallions. The rice, however, is not acidic enough to cut through the fat. Fish is superbly fresh though and I quite appreciate the oils. I do need quite a bit of gari (ガリ) after eating this.
Scallop - Hotate 【帆立貝】
Certainly a pity that I only get half of the bivavle. Nonetheless, the piece, with a singular shiso (紫蘇) leaf sandwiched between the seafood and the rice, looks just as captivating. The scallop is sweet, snappy and succulent. Its flavors are even more enhanced by the acidity and the burst of freshness from the leaf. Prototypical, but very nice.
Salmon - Sake 【鮭】
Alaskan salmon is used and the fish is topped with a dollop of yuzukosho (ゆず胡椒). I am usually not a fan of salmon as most of them are farmed. But not only is this specimen fresh, but it is also snappy, crunchy even, in texture. However, the spice from the adornment is too potent and it just overpowers the delicate oiliness of the salmon. In fact, I can only taste the fish in the background as it clouded by the acidity and spiciness. Pity really.
Snow Crab - Zuwaigani 【楚蟹 - ズワイガニ】
Summer months mean it is the season for snow crabs. This one is very good. The texture is firm and compact, though just loose enough so that it yields to bite. The crab itself is very fresh; hence it is especially sweet. This highlights the barely noticeable acidity in the rice and the contrasting flavors are captivating. Truly enjoyed this one.
Tuna - Akami 【赤身】
A very prototypical sample of akami, the leanest part of tuna. This piece is simply topped with ginger and, judging by its color, probably not aged. As such, the fish is fresh and unabashedly meaty. There is barely any perceptible trace of fishiness. This is what perplexes me, as I see no need to top this with ground ginger. It is not a silver-skinned fish after all. And so, much like the yuzukosho on the salmon, the ginger downright overpowers the meaty kick of the fish. Though the fish quality is good, it is a pity to see the flavors get masked.
Seared Albacore Tuna - Aburi Shiro Maguro 【白鮪 - ビンナガ炙】
Very glad that this white tuna is albacore instead of the food hazard that is escolar. The fish is first torched and then dressed with a spritz of lemon and chopped scallions. The char imparts smokiness to the flesh and surely brings out the fish oils, both of which are very palatable. Texture-wise, the fish is meaty, robust and stands quite well against the punchy flavors, all of which are moderated by the acidic touch in the end. Very good.
Wagyu Beef 【和牛】
Just like the previous piece, the neta (ネタ) is seared before being topped with accouterments. This time, it is truffle salt. The earthiness of the fungi is very pronounced. It definitely asserts itself and stands up well with the bold flavors from the char and the beef. Texture-wise, the meat is stellar as it has the right ratio of fat and sinew, enough for there to be a slight chew without being overly tough. I just wish the rice is more acidic to cut through the oils in this one.
Arctic Char - Iwana 【ホッキョクイワナ】
This is rare if it is wild, as most of the arctic char found on the market these days are farmed. Nonetheless, the fish, presented with a dab of yuzukosho, is the better showing of the two types of salmon tonight. The oils in the fish is especially pronounced. This makes it a lot easier for the neta to contrast with the spice. Meanwhile, the sweetness in the rice stands out as well. I truly appreciate the multi-faceted yet harmonious balance in every component in this piece.
Freshwater Eel - Unagi 【うなぎ】
Just like in typical unagi don (鰻丼), the fish is first toasted before being pressed onto the rice, both of which are tied together with a strip of nori (海苔). Finally, it is brushed with tare (タレ), or unagi sauce as it is called in the States. Taste-wise and texture-wise, everything is on point and just what I expect it to be. But the best part of this piece is the nori, as it is still crispy after coming in contact with other ingredients and condiments. It is this preservation of textures that impresses me.
Sea Urchin - Murasaki Uni 【紫海膽 - ムラサキウニ】
As it is currently summer, the uni used is of the murasaki (purple sea urchin) kind. From the box, I see that the sea urchins are produced by Kaneki Yoshida (カネキ吉田), a producer which sources the echinoderms from the waters (Pacific Ocean side) around Miyagi Prefecture (宮城県) and Iwate Prefecture (岩手県) according to the corporate website. Surprisingly, the size of the tongues is quite big. As is typical of sea urchin, the neta is presented in gunkan (軍艦) format with a shiso leaf in between. This piece is delicious as the sea urchin is fresh and very sweet. The shiso is a stroke of genius as the imbued acidity highlights the sweetness even more. Very enjoyable indeed.
Humpback Shrimp (Spot Prawns) - Botan Ebi 【牡丹蝦 - ボタンエビ】
These days, spot prawn has become a staple in sushi omakase menus. After all, the succulent, sweet and snappy texture makes the prawn an easy crowd pleaser. This rendition is on point, if not impressive. The supple flesh and the delicate sweetness complement the shari very well. Frankly, this may well be my favorite piece of the night. Now where is that head? I want to get some of that tomalley too.
Wagyu Beef x Sea Urchin 【和牛の雲丹】
The last piece of the omakase is, frankly, one that looks like it would appear on Sushi of Gari's menu. Wagyu beef is first seared and dusted with truffle salt, before being topped by two slivers of the briny murasaki uni and a dab of wasabi. Surprisingly, the combo works quite well and the truffle does not dominate. The meatiness and smoke from the meat attack first, which is followed by the assertive truffle fragrance and concluded by the saline sweetness of the uni. Flavors and textures are both on point. But then again, this sushi screams of luxe as it is a combination of multiple expensive ingredients. How can it go wrong?
A couple of stray thoughts about the dining experience:
- Portion size is quite small. But that is expected with the price.
- Rice in general lacks acidity and is slightly mushy. Personally, I prefer a grainier texture.
- Gari is prominently spicier and less sweet than those at other omakase establishments. Definitely a big fan of this shop's pickled ginger.
- Although there are prawns and sea urchin, the menu in general lacks shellfish such as different types of clams. In addition, silver-skinned fishes, such as shima aji (しま鯵) or khohada (コハダ), make no appearance at all. They are not expensive fishes anyway so I am not sure why they are left out of the menu.
- It would be great if the pieces are ordered in flavor intensity. I definitely do not expect the spot prawn to come after the sea eel and wagyu.
- Sadly, there are no dessert options. Not that it matters anyway since the pacing is so quick. However, something sweet in the end would be nice.
- The seating is outdoors with an open roof. What if it rains?
Despite the hurried pacing of the meal and small portions and imbalance in flavors in certain pieces, the omakase definitely has its value and market. With its affordable pricing, this menu blurs the line between utility sushi (such as the ones found in a deli) and high-end sushi quite well. In a city where omakase is synonymous with poshness and lengthy menus, Sushi on Jones certainly provides a breath of fresh air to the sushi dining landscape. Hopefully, this attractively high quality-price-ratio will propel more people to try and learn about Edomae nigiri sushi (江戸前握り寿司), and ultimately, more of such similar shops in the city. Big thumbs up to what David Bouhadana is trying to do here. (07/20/2016)