Following 福 1088, this is yet another post documenting one of my more remarkable dinners in Shanghai. I have always loved crabs, especially mitten crabs (大閘蟹). Although the quality of mitten crabs this year is somewhat mediocre, I still choose to go to a restaurant that specializes in them. After all, I am in China and I will not get these for sure in New York City.
蟹王府 is one of the premier destinations for eating crabs and crab-related food items in Shanghai. Located on a rather quaint street, the restaurant is demarcated by a store front boasting ancient Chinese architecture and grandeur. Big wooden panels, chiseled stone slabs and hanging lanterns can all be found. Stepping through the wooden doors, I arrive in a two-storied dining hall with private rooms aligning the perimeter of the space. Just like that of the exterior, the interior decor of the restaurant is redolent of ancient Chinese tea houses, like those during the Qing dynasty, with its preponderance of dark, brown walnut wooden beams and planks. Hell, there is even an old couple seated in the foyer, one strumming the pi pa (琵琶) and the other plucking the gu zheng (古箏) in sonic harmony. The ambiance truly brings diners anachronistically back to an era of simpler, more relaxed times.
But I digress. The food here is just as solid, generally speaking, as the dining environment with a couple of really standout dishes. Crab season is over as the time is now in the deep throes of winter. And so in lieu of eating freshly steamed mitten crabs, I choose crab-related food items and other dishes instead.
特色蟹鉗凍 【Crab Claw Meat Aspic】
A wonderful way to start the dinner. Here, we have shelled crab claw meat set in an aspic. The broth used in the jelly is heavily laden with rice wine and Chinese spice, in particular star anise. All these flavors provides a beautiful foil to the crab meat as they highlight the sweetness in the crab. The gelatin texture is just right - not too rubbery nor too soft. The presentation too, is on point as the aspic is set in crab-shaped moulds. This is tasty, though it is short from being memorable. Also, I just have no idea what the green peas and chrysanthemum petals are supposed to do for the dish as they add nothing to the enjoyment in eating this dish. In fact, they just lay there haphazardly and even move around when I turn the plate. I wonder if the restaurant is just trying to be gimmicky with its presentation.
酒香草頭 【Sautéed Bur Clover in Rice Wine】
I am not going to lie. The below picture and this description are not going to do justice to just how stellar this plate of vegetables is. This is absolutely incredible. Bur Clover, also called 草頭 or 三葉草 in Chinese, is of the pea family and is a very seasonal dish. The bur clover is just like a normal clover leaf, with the exception that it contains three heart-shaped leaves rather than the customary four, hence the eponymous name in Chinese. This is a very simple dish but it is executed to perfection. The timing and heat is just right as the vegetables comes out piping hot with plenty of wok hei (鑊氣), yet the color and texture of the leaves are both preserved despite the heat. Combined with the fragrance of lard and the heady depth of the rice wine, these greens are such a joy to eat. Fantastic.
招牌王府蟹醬 【House Special Crab Cakes】
This is a fabulous dish and definitely a far, far cry better than the its Louisiana brethren. There are Chinese elements in this dish but the composition and thought are squarely haute cuisine influence. Here, crab roe is infused in cream. The resultant mixture is strained before being set in a gel in a mould just like the aspic, replete with the company name's Chinese characters across the body. Sitting below the gel is a thin slice of savory butter cookie, which in turn sits on a bed of puffed rice (鍋巴), spherifications of Chinese rice wine and tapioca. Finally, a dollop of caviar is spooned on top to make this dish all the more decadent. The flavors are quite typical here, with the wine cutting through the richness of crab roe gel. However, it is the assortment of textures that steals the show. There is crunch from the puffed rice, bursting pops from the "wine caviar", and buttery fat from the crab roe. Very disparate textures, but they all work to elevate the dish. Two minor gripes, however. First, the caviar is surely an overkill and the salinity even clouds the delicate nuances of the crab roe. Second, just what on earth is the mint leaf doing there? The emphasis of plating, again, detracts from the main point that everything on the plate is meant to be eaten. I, for one, am just not sure how the mint leaf is supposed to enhance the dish.
黑椒蒜香黑豚肉 【Braised Pork Belly with Pepper and Garlic Sauce】
Yet another highlight of the dinner. The combination of flavors is what makes this dish so unique. Here, a slab of pork belly, specifically the five flower meat (五花腩 - a reference to the two layers of meat and three layers of fat) is roasted and then braised. As a result of the prolonged cooking process, much of the fat has been rendered off and is incorporated in the sauce. The texture of the meat is incredible. It is not too fatty and still possess a bite, along with the crunchy skin. The best part though, is still the sauce. It is just so deep and concentrated. Black pepper flavors takes the spotlight here. The flavors and textures of the meat are further enhanced when it is eaten with the accompanying deep fried garlic crumble. A very well-composed dish with superb execution. However, the same problem still remains - gimmicky, fussy presentations. The plate is cold while the mint leaves add nothing to the dish at all. The worst, however, is the presentation of the sauce. It just looks like blood seeping out from a corpse. Why can the professionalism not extend in the presentation as well? With the meat being executed so well, it is truly a pity to see the plating lacks attention to details.
蟹粉釀雞翅 【Crab Roe Stuffed Whole Chicken Wings】
This is not a common presentation of crab roe but it does not matter. Despite being a very pedestrian food item, the deep fried chicken wing here is no ordinary fare. This is insanely tasty. Texture-wise, it is on point. The skin is delectably crispy while the deboned interior is soft and supple. The temperature is on point. Biting into the piping hot center, steam just comes out. The biggest surprise though, is the combination of flavors. Who would have known that a filling of glutinous rice (糯米), crab roe, ham, bamboo, ginko nuts (銀杏), conpoy (瑤柱), and mandarin peel could work wonders? This is a sensational dish. However, just like the problem with the previous dishes, the presentation is a problem. Am I supposed to eat the Maraschino cherry, or what?
And now a point of contention. While every dish is execute rather well, the service is questionable. Why on earth are we served rice first before all the other small bites, especially the sweet dimsum? How am I supposed to eat all the other food when I am stuffed with carbs? There ought to be better communication between the kitchen and the front of house.
蟹粉撈飯 【Crab Roe Lathered Rice】
One word - decadent. This may look like a simple dish. After all, it is just pure crab roe lathered on rice. In reality, it is anything but. The rice itself is cooked in chicken stock. Hence, it already possesses a base flavor. Coupled with the silky, umami-rich crab roe and an assortment of condiments which range from peanuts, gari (Japanese pickled ginger), scallions, preserved vegetables (榨菜), and even century egg (皮蛋?), the rice transforms into a luxurious treat. This is a very comforting dish as nothing is better than sauce over rice, or what Hong Kong people call 碟頭飯. The flavors are familiar and this truly hits home.
香酥山藥糕 【Mountain Yam Fritters】
Frankly speaking, I am very surprised and impressed at the level of dimsum cookery here. After all, this is a crab-centric restaurant in Shanghai and not a tea parlor in Hong Kong. Nonetheless, this is a stellar testament to the chef's dimsum frying skills. The fritter has just the slightest of crunch on the exterior which crumbles like snowflakes inside the mouth. Meanwhile, the interior is molten and texture is similar to a cotton ball. That textural contrast is simply spellbinding. Flavor-wise, this is somewhat sweet given the base of mashed yams. I even detect a distinct egg custard (奶黃) fragrance too. So beautiful. What is more impressive is that the oil paper beneath the fritter barely has any spots. This may well be the best bite I have had throughout the entire dinner.
王府蟹酥 【House Special Crab Puff Pastry】
While the previous bite is a slice of heaven, this is rather ordinary, if not poor. Continuing with the theme of crabs, these puff pastries are shaped in the form of the crustaceans and are presented on a bed of black pebbles. Surely, such presentation elicits imagery of the shore front when the tide is low and crabs are milling about. However, despite the creative presentation, the puff pastry is poor. The preponderance of butter completely masks the taste of the filling, if there is any crab fragrance in it to begin with. Frankly, this just tastes like a chicken pie sans chicken. In addition, the center is cold. I have a feeling these are probably made before hand and are just reheated prior to serving. Avoid this like the plague.
王府栗蓉酥 【House Special Chestnut Pastry】
Just like the crab puff pastries, these are also doused in butter. As a result, the butter masks the delicate flavors and sweetness of the chestnut. In fact, I only get a hint of the nuttiness in the after taste. However, unlike the crab pastries, the centers of these are piping hot. Also, the pastry layers are identifiable and flaky. These are alright, but I would not waste my precious calorie allowance on them again.
蝦子醬油燜冬筍 【Braised Bamboo Shoots in Shrimp Roe Soy】
Another undisputed favorite. While the placement of the mint leaf seems haphazard and odd (as is the problem with other dishes), this is executed beautifully. In particular, the texture is very impressive. Despite the braising, the shoots retain their texture and are delectably crunchy and juicy. There is barely any trace of fiber which means the chef only selects the center core part of the bamboo. This is a nice attention to detail. While I cannot taste nor see much of the shrimp roe, the flavors of the dish are undeniably exciting. I suspect the soy used is even a mixture of two types as there is definitely a sweetness under the overarching savoriness, both of which complement the inherent woodiness of the vegetable. Yum!
脆皮香茅乳鴿 【Crispy Lemongrass-Smoked Squab】
Where do I even begin with this monstrosity? As soon as the dish arrived, two thoughts race across my head - Thai influence, and crazy plating. Let me start with the positives. The lemon grass fragrance is intoxicating, as is the gamy flavor of the squab. Also, the zucchini blossoms are young, vibrant, colorful and juicy. And this is where it all goes wrong. Horribly wrong. I appreciate the chef's effort in trying to plate the dish beautifully. But holy shit. Digging through edible parts on the dish is like a walk through a crime scene. I cannot eat the lemon grass. I cannot eat the sudachi (Japanese limes). Why is the mint there? It just completely boggles my mind. Meanwhile, the onion rings are oily and bland. The dish is cold. The meat is overcooked and has a texture of worn socks. Sadly, this squab dies a very unjust death.
全家福砂鍋 【"Everything Goes" Hot Earthen Pot】
Not sure if that English name is correct but this is a simple dish to describe. The weather outside is freezing and so we decided to order something soupy to warm our stomachs. Served in a gigantic earthen pot, this soup-based dish consists of many other ingredients, hence the name "Everything Goes". In it, there are fish balls, smoked fish (熏魚), wontons (餛飩), braised duck, freshwater shrimp, Napa cabbage, bamboo shoots, vermicelli and ham slices. All these ingredients are tied together in a clear, chicken-based broth laden with ham and vegetables. Frankly, this looks like a cross between Napa cabbage casserole (砂鍋津白) and poon choi (盆菜). While the flavors are familiar and the soup is restorative, I find the concentration of flavors a bit lacking. A nice way to end the meal nonetheless.
At this point, we are beyond stuffed but satiated and happy. While I do appreciate the level of cookery of the chef, at times am even wow-ed by his sophistication (in particular the crab cakes), there is just no need to complicate simple dishes. The food speaks for itself when it is cooked with respect and enthusiasm. It is not spoken through plating, and most definitely not through mint leaves, which exist in 4 out of the 12 dishes tonight. There is no functional benefit in adding unnecessary garnishes. After all, the number one rule is to make everything on the plate edible. Do not get me wrong. The exciting flavors and anachronistic ambiance definitely make it worth checking the place out. It is just that the chef and his team need to focus on what they do best. And that is cooking.
Oh, and remove that Thai-inspired smoked squab. That is a pretty big fail. (12/17/2015)