After the rush of CNY-related posts, I finally have some time to sit down and sort through my notes from my Shanghai excursion. Having first visited this place back in 2009, 福 1088 (Fu 1088), along with its sister restaurants, has long been a favorite of mine in this city. Situated in a quaint neighborhood, the restaurant occupies a refurbished residential building with colonial-influenced architecture, replete with the air of exuberance which is archetypal of the French occupation era - crystal chandeliers, spacious dining tables, immaculately manicured linoleum floors, just to name a few. Needless to say, the poshness extends well into the dining experience too, as each table, or dining party, is cloistered within its own room. To the uninitiated, the quietness may be off-putting, if not somewhat ghastly even. Nonetheless, privacy demands a premium here. And for the people in the upper echelons of the society, this is one of the places to be. As for the food itself, the restaurant draws inspiration from classic Shanghai cuisine, which is then presented with a modern twist. Such twist, however, often only exceeds on the surface as garnishes. Despite this, the food is still very delicious and definitely well deserves a visit from discerning patrons.
Tonight's dinner only consists of my parents and me. With three mouths to feed, there is naturally a limitation on the number of dishes to try. As such, I opt for the classic dishes that have been etched in my memory a few years ago.
老上海燻魚 【Deep Fried Fish Fillets in Sweet Soy Sauce】
This dish is one of the hallmarks of Shanghai cuisine. Although the name suggests smoked fish, the typical 燻魚 (xun yu) is actually marinated, deep fried, and simmered in a soy-based sauce before serving. The version from Fu is a stellar rendition of the classic. Here, fillets of deep fried grass carp (鯇魚?), each about an inch thick, are served. The thickness is on point as it allows the crispy shell to serve as a natural foil to the trapped, moist steam within. The fish itself is incredibly fragrant with a sesame, oily scent. Biting down, the balance of umami, sweet soy, and unctuous fish oils is remarkable. I even get some smokiness too possibly from burnt wood of fruit trees. Although the fish is oily and on the heavier side, this is very delicious. This is arguably one of the dishes that places the restaurant on the map for me. The only gripe is that the fish itself is inherently bony and the restaurant does not debone the fish prior to cooking. One must take extra caution.
松茸燉竹笙 【Double-Boiled Bamboo Pith Soup with Matsutake】
The base of the soup is a very heady chicken double stock. As a result of the double boil, coupled with the seasonal Japanese mushroom, the soup is especially fragrant. On the palate, the stock is slick and concentrated with barely any trace of oil. The flavors of yunan ham (雲南火腿) is particularly strong. Towards the end, the soup boasts a woody, herbaceous and umami-laden finish. As for the condiments, the matsutake (松茸) still possesses a delicate crunchy, while the bamboo pith (竹笙) is juicy and crunchy. Wow! What an incredible stock. It is incredibly restorative and gives off a calm, cleansing feeling. Being the soup person I am (no less because I am Cantonese), every sip of this soup is pure bliss. Fantastic.
油爆河蝦 【Sauteed Fresh River Shrimps in Sweet Soy Sauce】
I am a sucker for crustaceans. And what is better than being able to eat them whole without shelling and eating the heads too? The shrimps are harvested in rivers; hence fresh water. As a result, they are smaller, sweeter and more delicate. There is no getting around the oil in this dish, as the shrimps are essentially sauteed in a boatload of oil. Truly a sin to eat (Hello calories! Hello cholesterol!) but also truly a delicacy to savor. The shells are fried perfectly and possess a crispy texture akin to that of croûtons. The frying naturally draws out the inherent fragrance of the shellfish which, when combined with a sweet soy dressing, is intoxicating. Despite the high heat, the shrimps are not overcooked and still boast a snappy texture with juicy, sweet heads. Here, the restaurant shows great attention to detail by trimming the antennae and horns, making for a less invasive dining experience.
珊汁芝麻蝦 【Deep Fried Prawns with Wasabi Mayonnaise Dressing and Crispy Prawn Flakes】
Let's be honest. This is what I mean by the modern twist. Neither wasabi (山葵) nor mayonnaise exists in traditional Chinese cooking. However, when combined with the deep fried prawns, the sauce truly elevates the dish and undoubtedly places it indelibly in my memory; so indelible, in fact, that after 7 years since I first tried it, I am still a big fan. Here, giant prawns are scored, deep fried, lathered with mayo and dusted with togarashi (唐辛子). The batter is thick and is akin to that of Korean fried chicken. So I am guessing the prawns are actually fried twice. With that said, the prawns are cooked perfectly as they are bouncy with a snappy bite. The jagged exterior of the batter significantly increases the surface area to soak up that concentrated, heady wasabi mayonnaise. This is very good as the prawns are executed well. The deep fried goodness also works wonders with the mayo, the richness of which is cut and moderated by the astringent wasabi and peppery togarashi. A very well thought-out dish indeed. But, where are the prawn flakes?
蟹粉肉絲爛糊 【Braised Cabbage with Shredded Pork and Hairy Crab Roe】
This is a funny translation, as the English version certainly sounds a lot more appetizing than the Chinese one. In particular, the word for braised cabbage in Chinese can roughly be translated as "muddled mess". Jokes aside, this is a very homey and comforting dish. There is a great balance of textures here - the gooey crab roe, the crunchy cabbage and the stringy pork. Taste-wise, this dish screams of umami and savory notes as the shellfish goodness interplays with the chicken-broth laden cabbage. Props to the restaurant as well since the crabs are shelled and the roe is collected in the morning. Thus, it is freshly prepared every day. Although the roe sauce is creamy and rich (no shards of unwanted crab shell), the cooking wine within is a bit strong for me in both scent and flavor. As for the roe itself, there is a sheer lack of quality here. However, it is not up to the restaurant's fault as this year's harvest of Chinese mitten crabs (大閘蟹) is disappointing across the board. This year in general lacks significant sunshine, an important ingredient in plumping and oiling up the crab roe. And as a result, the roe and crab flavor is not as fragrant.
陳年花雕蒸鰣魚 【Steamed River Shad with Ham in Gold Rice Wine Sauce】
It is rather rare to see the river shad being served in restaurants these days as the species is one of the candidates of overfishing. This fish is located near the estuary right between the cusp where the river meats the ocean. As such, they possess both freshwater and saltwater fish characteristics - appropriately oily with a meaty flavor. This particular rendition sees the river shad being steamed whole with yunan ham, bamboo slices, jiu niang (酒釀 - or fermented glutinous rice, akin to koji in Japanese sake), and golden rice wine. When served, the deep, heady aged rice wine scent just completely permeates the room. The fish is served complete with the scales, which is essential in keeping the temperature of the fish hot. Although the shad is very bony, the succulent flesh sure makes the eating troubles worth it. Flavor-wise, the ham adds a good burst of umami while the bamboo provides a crunchy textural contrast. However, it is the rice koji that surely steals the show as it imbues the shad with an opulent richness. This koji, combined with the fish oils and the soy sauce, is what makes the dish special as it tempers and highlights the sweetness within the wine. Needless to say, the scales are the best part as they are crispy and juicy after soaking up all the wine, oil, and soy sauce. The only gripe? I think the fish is slightly over-steamed.
火丁雲南小豌豆 【Sautéed Sweet Pea with Minced Ham】
This is a very cheap and humble dish. Yet, it is one that demands a lot of handiwork. It is winter, so peas are in season. In this dish, sweet peas are shelled from the pods and sautéed over high heat along with diced ham and diced bamboo shoots. This dish surely boasts a lot of wok hei (鑊氣), or thermal-induced fragrance, roughly speaking. Despite being stir fried over high heat, the peas retain a fresh green color and each of the beans is delicately plump. Biting down, the texture is crispy and just pops in the mouth, almost similar to that of ikura (salmon roe). Meanwhile, the vegetal sweetness of the peas mingles very well with the accents of umami from the savory ham. Inspecting closely, I even see a thin layer of sauce, probably composed of head stock (高湯), that just drapes over the ingredients and boosts their flavor. There is nothing fancy about peas. However, making the dish right is tedious and requires a lot of cooking technique. It is so simple yet so good. What a joy it is to eat it.
By this point, we are fully stuffed and there is no more room for dessert. All in all, although there are minor mishaps, the dishes are executed excellently and live up to the versions in my memory. The coherence between the dishes is on point as well since the timing and the pace of the meal is optimal. This is rather authentic Shanghainese food. And as such, there is no getting around the copious amounts of oil in each of the dishes. Nevertheless, the amalgam of flavors, along with the diversity of textures and ingredients, surely makes the extra calories worth the additional 30 minutes on the elliptical. It is surely a joy to dine in this establishment. And what more can you expect, with the quality of execution and dining environment in consideration, when the bill for three only comes to a figure shy of 900 RMB? There is no denying. This is a great restaurant with superb value for money. I cannot recommend this place more. (Dec 15, 2015)