Booze Bulletin Issue 7 (February 2016)

Beer

Allagash St. Klippenstein, ABV 11%, Belgian Strong Dark Ale, Maine

First time trying this offering from Allagash and my hopes are high given how stellar the brewery's other bourbon-barrel aged cousin, Curieux, is. Unlike its Tripel cousin, this beer pours a dark brown, almost pitch black color, with minimal head but plenty of lacing. On the nose, this brew is concentrated and yields notes of coffee beans, chocolate, Asian spice, black bread, roasted malts, oak and brown sugar. It actually smells more like a stout. Despite the appearance, the structure of the brew is incredibly thick and unctuous, no less because of the high alcohol percentage and its accompanying heat. The palate is very well-delineated too with flavors of chocolate, spice, vanilla, molasses and malts. Then comes the stickiness, toasted oak and unabashed sweetness of the bourbon barrel casks. The finish is long and the end is complex with a smoky kick. The alcohol is certainly potent. A very strong beer indeed, but, just like the Curieux, is a world-class brew. A perfect beer for this cold wet weather during this time of the year. I wonder whether additional aging would tame the alcohol a bit. 94

A very solid showing of stout-influenced Belgian dark ale from Allagash.

Mikkeller Sally's Field 2012, ABV 8.5%, Belgian Strong Pale Ale, Denmark

Finally found the time to crack this open from my cellar and what a beauty it turns out to be with the aging. This Belgian blond ale, brewed in 2012, is aged in chardonnay barrels prior to bottling. As expected, it pours a hazy, golden tangerine color with a thick head that just perpetuates. As it recedes, it leaves a very fine web of lacing around the rim. Meanwhile, I can clearly see the vibrant brew yielding fine beads of effervescence. On the nose, this beer is very concentrated and smells of chardonnay, lemon (sour notes even), pears, malts, funk, honey, white grapes and spice. On the palate, and quite contrary to the nose, the brew is thick and unctuous, no less because of contribution from the foamy head. I taste pears, preserved plums (話梅), malts, grapes, cloves and sweet bready malts. Quite tasty. Yet, despite the viscosity, this beer is surprisingly linear and lacks balance as the alcohol does kick in towards the end. This does help the beer in creating a dry, smooth, crisp finish. A bit soft, simple and light on its feet. Nonetheless, this is still rather tasty and the structure is very commendable. Don't think I have ever had a pale ale that has this mouth feel ever. 90

 

 

 

Dogfish Head Namaste, ABV 4.8%, Witbier, Delaware

This one is from a 2015 bottling and drunk over the Superbowl. Made with coriander, orange and lemongrass, this white beer pours a hazy, straw color with a frothy head and minimal lacing. On the nose, the beer screams of coriander, citrus, earth, wheat, spice and soapy esters. Such a profile certainly points to a light thirst quencher. As for the structure, the beer certainly points towards one of a summery style - carbonated, refreshing and snappy. Flavors of citrus and spice dominate the palate, which is supported by tertiary notes of pepper, malts, yeast and bread. As expected, the finish is not long and the end dissipates rather quickly. Very simple and refreshing, with a sweetness and just the right amount of astringency to keep it interesting and not overly cloying. 85

 

 

 

 

 

Dogfish Head Oak-Aged Noble Rot, ABV 9%, Saison, Delaware

This is the 2016 version with a new bottle art. Frankly, I do like the previous version's art better. No matter as it is the brew that counts. This beer pours a dark golden color, much akin to aged chardonnays with a thick, frothy head that dissipates rather quickly. On the nose, the beer gives off a concentrated scent of white wine grapes, along with spice, vanilla, oak, nuts and chalk. This actually smells more like a sweet, demi-sec champagne than a beer. On the palate, the beer is rounded with a decent amount of carbonation. The one year of oak aging does add a dimension of creaminess to the texture. Taste-wise, grapes play a very major role here. It is slightly bitter at first, like a super dry saison with a bit of somewhat unpleasant esters. The taste profile does open up and offers notes of lemons, bananas, white wine, honey, thyme, minerals, must and yeast. At 9%, the alcohol most certainly bites here without much hiding. The finish is rather long and complex, with a astringency and crispness that is redolent of a bone-dry Sauvignon Blanc finish. Surprisingly, I do not pick up any of the botrytis-affected Viognier, as the name of the brew suggests. 85

 

 

Blue Moon First Peach Ale, ABV 5.6%, American Pale Wheat Ale, Colorado

This beer, my first seasonal brew from one of the more prominent craft breweries, is also consumed during the Superbowl. A seasonal brew founding during the winter months, this Blue Moon pours a hazy copper, dark amber color with a light head that dissipates rather quickly. On first inspection, the nose is incredibly rich with a chock full of canned and candied peaches. With time, the beer starts to open itself and yields notes of wheat, toast, spice and caramel. Such a nose definitely reminds me of the Festina Pêche from Dogfish Head. On the palate, the beer is rather thin and frothy, which is very different from the structure the nose suggests. The flavor profile is also rather unidirectional - canned peaches (almost artificial), peach tea, malts and brown sugar. Again, not much of a finish here as the beer just flutters out without a trace. This is OK as it does not leave much of a remarkable impression. 79

 

 

 

 

2015 Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale, ABV 6.8%, American IPA, California

This is one of Sierra Nevada's seasonal (winter) brew, 2015 edition. Surprisingly, this beer is an IPA rather than the customary winter warmers such as doppebocks or the typical tripels and quads. Nonetheless, this is a very decent and balanced IPA on all accounts. It pours a dark, amber color with a thick white head that dissipates rather slowly down the glass, leaving fine lacing. On the nose, the brew is very floral and has a deep citrus backbone. Pine, malts, citrus oils particularly stick out to me. On the palate, the structure is there. It is creamy, effervescent and substantial but not too think. Flavors of hop oils, citrus peel, spice and eventually caramel appear as well. This sweetness, perhaps, is why this particular beer is regarded as a winter beer. The finish is long, with a strong astringency to boot in the end. Very good stuff and quite an interesting change to the typical Winter brews. 91

An interesting and impressive winter-oriented IPA.


Sake

Oze no Yukidoke Junmai Daiginjo Namazume 【龍神酒造:尾瀬の雪どけ 純米大吟醸 ひやおろし 生詰】(ABV 17-18%, Seimai-buai 40%, Gunma Prefecture)

This sake pours a crystal clear color with very thick long legs. As a namazuke, this one clocks in at a very potent strength. On the nose, although the sake is not as concentrated, it is delicate with a suppleness and complexity to it, which is expected as the name does suggest the water used for brewing is collected from the melted snow in Gunma Prefecture. There are notes of pears, melons, green apples, jasmine and husks. At 40% rice polishing ratio, the sake drinks very smoothly, almost somewhat amorphously even. There is not much definitive structure other than the alcohol heat. Fruit-driven, the palate mainly boasts notes of melons, pears, green tea and grapes. As expected, the finish is rather long as the alcohol heat draws it out to an astringent, somewhat smoky close. Fabulous sake, which despite the strength, is an easy quaffer. 88

This sake is just as impressive as the IPA produced from the eponymous brewery - Oze no Yukidoke 【尾瀬の雪どけ】


Wine

2011 Alexana Pinot Noir Revana Vineyard, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon

This is my first ever pinot from Oregon, a semi-cold climate region. The wine is popped and aired for an hour an half before consumption. Upon pouring, the wine possesses medium legs and pours a clear maroon color. On the nose, the wine is fairly concentrated and is fruit-driven. Notes of Asian spice, cherries, strawberries, anise, funk and sous bois are dominant. On the palate, the wine is fairly thin and the body is supported by well-integrated tannins rather than glycerin. Just like the nose, the flavors are fruit forward with a smattering of red fruits, currants, and bark. Finish is a bit smoky and the wine ends rather quickly. For me, this is an easily drinkable and enjoyable wine. However, it drinks too cleanly and lacks personality and complexity. It is almost as if the wine is put through a straight jacket which completely masks the characteristics of the terroir. That said, while the wine is well-made and tasty, it is not compelling. 87

 

 

 

 

 

1970 A. Huesgen Graacher Himmelreich Q.b.A., Traben-Trarbach, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

This is one of my first vintage German wines ever as I start to delve more into what aged Rieslings can offer. From the label, I cannot make out the grape of this wine; and thus, my guess is that this is probably a blend. It pours a deep golden color with apricot tints, much like that of an aged Sauternes. At 10% ABV, the legs of the wine is rather short. On the nose, this blend lacks concentration as well as a compelling bouquet. Nonetheless, I still pick up hints of petrol, plastic, dried raisins, apples, and green tea. On the palate, this wine is rather thin as expected given the lack of a quality rating on the label. it is rather fruit driven with a controlled mixture of coconut, tropical fruits, white grapes, lemon oils and honey. Tannins are there but mellow, similar to that of Cantonese lemon tea, which is nice as this provides some structure. Finish, however, is somewhat disappointing and short. Nothing too complex here, just an aged, old easily enjoyable quaffer. 80

 

 

 

 

 

1996 Arrowood Chardonnay Reserve Speciale Cuvee Michel Berthoud, Sonoma County, California

Drank from a double magnum for my birthday dinner. The wine pours a deep golden color with minimal sediment. Surprisingly, after all these years, the chardonnay is still quite alive and the fruit quite fresh. On the nose, there is a very pronounced nuttiness along with lemon peel, honey, brioche and marzipan. The palate shows a voluptuous, thick structure, with the alcohol heat flashing slightly. Again, the palate matches the nose. Flavors of honey roasted nuts, citrus zest, brie cheese, toast, spice, and even bark are all there. The finish is, though, is slightly short and has a one dimensional profile of tertiary flavors, specifically a leathery and aged cheese finish. Rather enjoyable despite this not being a cerebral wine. Surprisingly, the Chardonnay from Arrowood does stand on its own against its more famous Cabs counterpart. 91

This bottle is deceptively big, weighing close to 11 pounds. The picture does not do the bottle's monstrosity justice.


Whisky

Glen Moray 'Elgin Classic' NAS, ABV 40%, Speyside

Finished exclusively in Tawny Port pipes for 8 months before being bottled, the whisky pours an amber color with a reddish, orange hue, a testament to the influence from the fortified wine. On the nose, the dram is creamy with a rich, concentrated bouquet of coconuts, vanilla, cranberries, jammed fruits, orange marmalade and ginger. With such a scent profile, the whisky is probably aged in bourbon casks prior to the port finishing. The palate, just like the nose, is thick, creamy and unctuous with an unrestrained amount of fat (think Edradour 10). Chocolate, butterscotch, candied citrus, malts and spice are all prominent amidst a backdrop of vinous raisins. The finish is long and complex. And despite the broadness of the approach, the end is not cloying and finishes with the faintest hints of chocolate and honey. For a no-age statement whisky, this is a bottle of fantastic value as it is truly enjoyable despite the lack of balance. 88

 

 

 

 

 

Laphroaig 15 Years Old '200th Anniversary', ABV 43%, Islay

So incredibly lucky to be able to get my hands on this. The Laphroaig 15 has long been a favorite of mine before it was discontinued and replaced by the 18 year old. However, to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the distillery, Laphroaig released 72000 bottles of the fan favorite 15 year old. Just like the previous Laphroaig 15, this is a wonderful dram that is matured in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks. It pours an amber, almost toffee-like color with thick long legs. The nose itself is very concentrated and powerful, with the unmistakable Islay peat taking the spotlight. Supporting it is a bouquet of coffee, vanilla, dried fruits and honey. There even is a whiff of brine as the distillery is located near the shore. This whisky possesses a robust structure with a more rounded, voluptuous mouth feel compared to the 10. On the palate, peat, cigar smoke, honey, dark fruits, spice, malts and sea air are all present in proportional balance. The finish itself is long and complex, an end that is smoky, drying and astringent. A fan favorite, and I can certainly see why as I am sold myself. 92

Ah. The fan favorite!