It has been a long while since B and I have met for a nice dinner. And it has been a month since his visit to Japan, the sushi of which changed his perceptions and left an indelible mark in his memory. Naturally, we have been talking about Edo-mae style sushi omakase which seems to be somewhat of a rarity in NYC. For one reason or the other, most of the sushi omakase spots in the City are quite nontraditional and certainly have more than necessary gimmicks - Sushi of Gari and O-ya immediately come to mind. As I have not been to Kura for two months now, it is only natural for me to bring my college buddy there, especially since Kura is my favorite sushi omakase spot in Manhattan because of quality and value.
He is not a particularly big drinker but does appreciate quality sake. So I fished something interesting from my fridge for the both of us.
Daishichi Masakura 【大七：真櫻】- (ABV 15%, Seimai-buai Unknown, Brewed 2012), Fukushima Prefecture
The sake pours a slightly off-white color with long, clingy legs. As the brewer is famous for, this ginjo sake is made using the kimoto style which is a traditional technique (since the Edo period) used in creating the moto, or the yeast starter mash. Needless to say, although this process is more laborious and time-consuming than commercially available cultivated yeast, it produces a sake that is purer, more concentrated yet ethereal. And surely enough, on the nose, this sake has a concentrated bouquet of cantaloupe, strawberies, butter, muscats and minerals. On the palate, the alcohol does not bite. Rather, the mineral backbone delineates structure amongst the viscous body. An concentrated explosion of umami, tropical fruits, marshmallows follows. The finish is very long and complex with a sweet note to round things out. This brew is very drinkable and undoubtedly a very impressive effort from Daishichi.
Soy-Marinated Tuna and Grated Mountain Yam - Maguro no Yamakake 【まぐろの山かけとろろ】
A classic preparation. Bite-sized cubes of tuna are marinated in soy which accentuates the inherent meatiness of the akami (赤身) and dresses them in a coat of lip-smacking umami. The tororo (とろろ) is a suitable counterpoint as the coolness and the slipperiness of the tuber helps combat the heat of the summer. This is a great start to the omakase.
Salmon Roe - Ikura 【イクラ】
Rather than serving them in the traditional gunkan (軍艦), Chef Norihiro Ishizuka presents this morsel on top of a small bed of rice topped with crisped shreds of nori (海苔). It is interesting here because the shari (しゃり) is not vinegared at all. Rather, the sweetness of the rice shines through and contrasts well with the brininess of the roe. Interesting of note here is that Chef marinates his own ikura in a mix of soy and salt - and it certainly shows because the taste is not as salty as the ones you would get elsewhere.
Medium-fat cut Tuna Belly - Chu-toro 【中トロ】 (Not pictured)
A nice clean cut of tuna belly with a good mix of fat and lean meat, much akin to a "half-fat-thin" roast pork (半肥瘦叉燒). No hints of sinew as well as the flesh yields to the bite. Standard fare done well on a fresh slab of fish. Meanwhile, the shari is not overly acidic and hence pairs wonderfully with the cut. Sadly, this is too appetizing and my stomach calls dibs first.
Squid stuffed with rice - Ikameshi【烏賊飯】
Deviating from raw foods, Norihiro-san presents us with a whole squid stuffed with a mixture of sushi rice and squid tentacles and brushed with soy. The squid is slightly poached and so the texture is still bouncy with a bite to it. This complements well with the rice that is densely packed inside. Very clean flavors here, coming mostly from the sweetness of the rice and freshness of the cephalopod. Basic, but well executed.
Sea Bream - Tai 【鯛】
A beautiful cut of the white bream that is firm in texture with a bite to it, even somewhat crunchy. Certainly a great sign that the fish is very fresh and not refrigerated for a long period of time, upon which the flesh dehydrates. The fish is sweet and the shari even appears somewhat acidic. Very fresh!
Scallop - Hotate 【帆立貝】
Norihiro-san then slices up a gigantic scallop and sandwiches a slice of nori between it and the shari. The sushi is then brushed with a dab of soy. The play of textures here is the key, with the crunchy seaweed contrasting with the grainy texture of the rice and the soft, supple feel of the bivalve. The smokiness in the nori is quite bold too and this contrasts well with the inherent succulent sweetness of the scallop. Yum!
Soy-Marinated Tuna - Zuke 【漬けマグロ】
A cut of akami is marinated and preserved in soy to the point a brown crust forms on the edge. In the center, the tuna is beautifully bright crimson in color. The meat is soft, almost buttery. As far as me using plain old akami as a yardstick to judge sushi chefs, this cut of lean tuna certainly performs wells and ranks pretty high.
Geoduck - Mirugai 【海松貝】
Chef than throws a slab of geoduck onto the chopping board to flatten it before cutting it into generous, bite-sized portions. This is pretty standard and just what you would expect from this orange clam - a texture that bounces between crunchy and chewy, with a saline sweetness to boot.
Striped Horse Mackerel - Shima Aji 【しま鯵】
Probably one of the last times I will get to eat one of my favorite silver-skinned fishes as summer is almost ending. Delicious, bouncy texture that is draped in an oily coat. Very fresh neta (ねた) as there are barely any traces of fishiness at all. Meanwhile, the acidity in the shari is a good counterpoint to the richness.
Abalone (steamed) - Mushi Awabi 【蒸し鮑】
Here, the black abalone is prepared by poaching it in dashi stock and then steaming it. As a result, this generous slice of shellfish is imbued with a smoky flavor. The texture is on point - very tender with a bite to it. The inherent sweetness of the abalone is further enhanced by a reduced sweet soy that is drizzled on top. Very good, though it definitely requires a couple slices of gari (ガリ) to clean the palate after.
Pressed Mackerel - Oshizushi Saba Aburi 【鯖】
The horse mackerel here is presented Kyoto-style. In particular, it is placed on top of a block of rice, pressed, cut and torched to release the fatty fish oils on the skin. As one would expect, the torching eliminates a good deal of the inherent fishiness of the meat and imbues smokiness and rich umami to it. Perhaps it is the result of charring, I find the shari especially sweet here and loses the acidic touch to cut through the oily richness. No matter, this is still some tasty morsel.
Splendid Alfonsino - Kinmedai 【金目鯛】
It is towards the end of summer season so probably, this will be the last chance to taste my favorite fish of all time - golden-eyed sea bream. Chef is very generous here and cuts me a thick slab of the pinkish flesh. Just like the saba, the Alfonsino sports high oil content. A light torching crackles and chars the skin while releasing these oils. Such smoky and oily flavors sing in harmony with the tender, plush texture. The shari here provides a good bite, with the acidity in the rice working well.
Japanese Conger Eel - Anago 【穴子】
A generous slab of freshwater eel is presented to us rested on top of a smaller ball of shari. With the outer skin charred to perfection, the encased flesh within boasts a fluffy, supple texture. Luckily, the sweet soy is not overly saccharine and flavors of fermented soybeans shown through. A pretty basic staple, but good nonetheless.
Fat cut Tuna Belly - O-toro 【大トロ】
And how can one say no when it comes to the crème de la crème - super fatty tuna with extremely intricate marbling. And luckily for us, there is barely any sinew within the flesh. The blowtorch certainly renders some of the oils into pungent, alluring smoke, which works well as a functional counterpoint to the fattiness of the fish. This is certainly one memorable piece of sushi.
Santa Barbara Sea Urchin - Aka-uni 【赤雲丹】
Typical yet very fresh sea urchin that one would get in the States. No surprises here. This one is creamy and luscious, with a remarkable sweetness to it. Only the slightest tint of brine kicks in at the very end.
Humpback Shrimp (Spot Prawns) - Botan Ebi 【牡丹蝦】
Just look at how fresh these prawns are - cut right in front of us.
What a beautiful shade of pink and orange. Truly superb.
As B and I are just about finish chewing on the urchin, Norihiro-san brings out a bowl holding two spot prawns, their bring orange shells glistening under the light. They are so fresh that their legs are kicking and and the bodies are writhing. Then with a deft slice of the tanto, Chef instantly beheads, shells, and butterflies the shrimp, then wraps the flesh around a small ball of shari. This prawn is extremely succulent with a snappy texture, a concentrated sweet flavor and briny notes. Definitely the piece of the night for both B and me.
The best part is the head though, which is taken into the kitchen and deep fried with all the tomaelly encased within the shell. The end result - a morsel with a very thin batter that explodes in the money, revealing the liquid burst of umami, brine and cholesterol in one bite. Very sinful.
Japanese Pilchard - Iwashi 【真鰯】
Yet another silver-skinned fish, and quite a generous cut too. This one is unabashedly fresh, oily yet fishy. Thankfully there are scallions underneath the neta to combat the pungent fish oils. Perhaps it is also because of the fishiness itself that I find the shari sweeter than usual. I personally find this very delicious, but this is not for the faint of heart.
Black Throat Sea Perch - Nodoguro 【赤鮭/のど黒)】
This is perhaps one of the priciest, and certainly one of the rarer, fish on the menu. Of the bream family, this fish is also called akamutsu (赤鮭) in Japanese. Spotting a rosy pink skin, the fish has white flesh and is renowned for its high oil content, much like a cut of fat toro. As with other fattier pieces of fish tonight, Norihiro-san uses a torch to flame the exterior of the fish to release the oils. As a result, the neta is supple and succulent. The mouth feel is luscious and the flavor is unabashedly smoky and creamy without the slightest hint of sinew. To me, this is even better than the toro. Oishi.
Pacific Giant Octopus with Red Yuzu Kosho - Mizudako no Togarashi Yuzu Kosho 【水鮹 · 唐辛子のゆず胡椒】
Yet another seasonal ingredient which Norihiro-san is very proud of, and especially so when he brings out a whole tentacle of limpid, fresh octopus flesh that is the length of his arm and longer! Chef then slices a generous cut of the tako, shapes it over the shari, spritz it with lemon and a dab of red yuzu kosho (yuzu chili sauce). I am told that the chili sauce is only red because Chef mixes in togarashi (唐辛子). The spice, combined with the lemon, certainly draws out the inherent sweetness of the shellfish. Meanwhile, as the octopus is raw, the texture is soft but somewhat chewy as there is still so much water content left in the flesh. Quite an enjoyable experience for my first eating a giant octopus.
Tuna Belly Hand Roll -O-toro Temaki【トロ巻】
Seeing that we are regulars, Chef graciously treats us to a deluxe version of the temaki in which he dices up O-toro as the filling. The rice is warm and the portion of fish is generous. With every bite, I get the smokiness and crisp from the seaweed, moderated by the chewiness of the rice and the unctuousness of the fish. I prefer not to use any soy sauce in this, as the saltiness can easily detract my attention away from the nuances of the seaweed. Rather, I just enjoy the piece as is. And it is certainly divine.
Hokkaido Sea Urchin - Bafun Uni 【馬糞雲丹】
I can definitely eat a whole box of this.
With the roll, the sushi portion of the omakase is more or less finished. B and I are both stuffed at this point, but I am in the mood for one more piece when Norihiro-san asks me if I want for additional sushi (ツイカ). Eying an entire box of Hokkaido sea urchin, I instantly know I have to try. Compared to their Santa Barbara cousins, the Hokkaido sea urchins are smaller, plumper, and more golden in color. In terms of texture, they are slightly firmer but still creamy. Taste-wise, they are less sweet and are much more briny, with a distinct mineral flavor. To me, I prefer the Hokkaido variant as the minerality gives the flavor and texture more definition.
Grilled Omlette - Tamagoyaki 【玉子焼き】
With the omakase finished and additional pieces consumed, we are then presented with a thick cut of tamagoyaki. Kura's version is not as sweet as some other shop's. What sets this apart is the distinct and heady sake flavor, as well as dashi, in the eggs. A very staple piece - not particularly enjoyable, but not particularly bad either. A good way to end the meal.
Red Miso Soup - Aka misohiru 【赤味噌汁】
A very atypical miso soup using red miso, a fermented mixture of soybeans and other grains that has a higher proportion of soybeans than that of its white cousin. As a result, the miso has a earthier flavor with more umami which certainly transcends the ordinary miso soup into a hearty, warming broth. There is also a piece of giant hamaguri (蛤) which is perfectly cooked and sweet.
Pineapple Agar Gel with Granita
The final sweet bite of the enjoyable evening consists of diced pineapples set in pineapple agar gel, doused in a light pineapple syrup and shaved ice. Thankfully, the "dessert" (perhaps too small to be called a full dessert course) is not too sweet and there is some acidity to keep it from being cloying. Certainly a very refreshing end to a meal, and a fitting one too as the sweetness ties all the savory bites together. Fantastic.
It certainly is always a pleasure to eat here. And after so many times at Kura, I still find myself coming here every now and then, in intervals of a month or two just in time for the seasonal changes. There may not have expert and precise execution on the food. At times, the tamago may be a tad too boozy. Other times, there might not be enough soy on the fish. Yet despite the randomness, one thing that stays consistent is the generosity, freshness and delectableness of the neta. That, and Norihiro-san's magnetic, affable personality. And so, despite seeing the price increase from $105 to $130 over the years, I still swear by this sushi-ya and pay a regular visit to the old man. (8/22/2015)
PS: Norihiro-san does not drink, not even if you offer a glass of BYO sake. Try it on Huey though, the owner. He loves his sake.