If there was one fond memory of my visit to London 7 years ago, it would have to be the discovery of Ledbury. At that time, this place had recently been awarded its second star from the Rubber Man. There were many highlights from that meal - the flame-grilled mackerel, the ash-baked celeriac, and the devilishly delicious bacon brioche (which I jokingly referred to as Western 叉燒包 at that time) that I remember so fondly. In fact, this was probably the best bread I have ever had in all the different restaurants that I have visited. What is more shocking is that despite the fame and recognition, the menu, including the wine pairings, only came to less than 100 pounds per person then. For such a flawless execution that thoughtfully showcases English terroir, Chef Brett Graham, along with his philosophy, was a fresh breath to the dining scene.
Dial 7 years forward. Having gone through a lot, The Ledbury is now an institution. It has survived a raid from the 2011 London riots as the chefs armed with rolling pins drove the thugs out. Former alum Isaac Mchale has left and successfully finds The Clover Club. The restaurant has also raised its prices, much deservedly so. And to my surprise and angst, the beloved bacon brioche (apparently I was not the only one to share those feelings) is no longer offered as diners ate too many of those and forwent their entrées. Well that is hardly a surprise!
Yet despite all the changes, the restaurant more or less stayed the same. I am more than pleased to score a reservation only at a day's notice, albeit it is for lunch. Nonetheless, they serve the full menu and that is okay with me. Things are easier to control after all when you are eating alone. As I had a hefty dinner from Scott's the previous night, I opted for the four course prix fixe as opposed to the heavier, more extensive tasting menu. I am very pleased to see that menu, throughout all these years, remains dedicated to local and seasonal ingredients. In this case, that means deer. Wonderful.
As I am deliberating over the options, down comes three delightful bites.
Seaweed Crisp, Smoked Mussels
Sitting on a pile of kombu, this crispy wafer is topped with a luxuriously smooth puree of smoked mussels. The textures are refined and I do appreciate the smoky, umami-ladden kick to this bite. The salinity is particularly strong in this one. This is a great way to whet the appetite.
Foie Gras Puff with Mead Jelly
This one is great. Fitted within a pint-sized macaron of crispy puff pastry is a decadently smooth foie gras cream. The game flavors definitely hit front and center. I particularly enjoy the tempering sweetness of the jelly. This hearken the traditional pairing of Sauternes and foie. This is an ingenious creation.
Muntjac Dumpling with Mustard Fruits
Just like the previous three, this is inhaled in one bite. Encased within the deep-fried pliable shell is a molten interior of deer meat. The sauce that accompanies the venison is particularly gamey. Again, mild sweetness and astringent notes from the mustard fruits both serve as befitting counterpoints to the bold flavors from the deer. What a harmonious combination of flavors.
Chantilly of Oyster - Sea Bream Tartare, Frozen English Wasabi, Seaweed and Potato Crisp
This is absolutely exquisite. Visually striking, this dish is as complex as it is tasty. Briny in flavor and embedded with diced oysters, the oyster cream is fine and unctuous. It is just so luxuriously smooth. Meanwhile, the tartare is made with a burnoise of sea bream, cucumbers, dots of caviar and microherbs. By itself, the tartare boasts subtle flavors and the delicate oiliness of the fish does come forward.
Meanwhile, the potato crisp, which is dusted in salt and gilded in nori powder, is essentially one long flattened piece of tuber. No words needed. This is the king of all potato chips.
The magic begins when the oyster cream and the tartare are consumed together. The marriage is simply heaven. The pinpricks of horseradish highlights the salinity as well as the fish oils. It is the balance between the brine and fat, with crisp interjected in between, that makes this dish so memorable and striking.
Native Lobster - Wrapped in Shiitake, Cauliflower and Dulse
This dish's simplistic plating completely belies its difficulty and complexity in execution. In preparing this dish, a Scottish lobster tail is first basted in butter so the exterior is crisp while the interior is mi cuit and supple. It is then encased in a mosaic of shiitake mushroom slices which hail from Suffolk. While the mushrooms are earthy, the lobster itself is succulent, snappy and sweet.
Meanwhile, the cauliflower, with its inherent floral earthiness, serves as a natural match to the flavorful, saline lobster. The cauliflower is basted in goat's whey for 45 minutes on high heat. No wonder I get that whisper of goat essence in the vegetable. This goes so well with the bonito butter (dashi emulsification) that is served alongside. As one can imagine, this is umami on umami. All this is tied together by the accompanying prawn chip that boasts concentrated crustacean flavors. In fact, the flavors are so strong that I would dare say this is the epitome of prawn chips.
One feat about this dish that particularly impresses me are the shiitake slices. The mushrooms are so tightly wound around the lobster that the two are simply melded as one. As I cut into the lobster, the shiitakes cut cleanly as well rather than slide underneath the knife. I have no idea how this is achieved as mushrooms are inherently squishy and slimy. The technique involved certainly is not just a matter of layering fungi on a shellfish. This small attention to detail is just so very impressive.
Mi cuit center encased in a layer of cleanly-cut shiitakes. Impressive techinque and execution.
Berkshire Muntjac - Hen of the Woods, Pickled Wild Hops, and Potato Cream
Classic British terroir.
Words cannot describe the wonderful bliss as I munched into this dish. I love how commonly found deer is in Europe, which is the not the case in America. This dish has many elements, all of which contribute to create a cohesive whole. The venison is perfectly cooked, pink in the center and wonderfully moist. The accompany jus, as well as the bone marrow, adds to the umami of the game. The deer sausage takes the game flavors to the next level by using off-cuts. Though I insisted that there are plenty of liver flavors, the waiter confirmed that the meat did not contain any liver at all.
The accouterments are skillfully prepared too. Potato fondants are expertly seared and retains a delectably crispy exterior. The potato cream, meanwhile, scream of a luxurious, rich fragrance. The hops are arguably the most interesting of all. It is crunchy, as pickles should be, and boast an earthy, fungi flavor. This is a far cry from the hops that I would associate with beer brewing. Finally, the mushrooms are expectedly heady and fragrant. However, I do miss the crispy fronds like the specimen I had at NUR a while back.
If I were to carp, the plating of this dish is quite busy. Nonetheless, this dish is truly substantial in both food volume and flavor complexity.
Rosy interior - supple and without an ounce of fat.
Sauternes Cream - Passion Fruit, Warm Donut
As an intermezzo, I get a dollop of Sauternes Cream. The dairy is rich in flavor but light in texture. The air within certainly helps keep it lithe without adding much substance. I particularly enjoy the interplay between the tacit sweetness of the cream and sharp acidity from the fruit. Meanwhile, the donut adds some substance and provides a new dimension in temperature contrast. This serves as a fitting segue into the final dessert course.
One carping note - I find the Sauternes flavor somewhat muted. The color of the wine is also not apparent in the cream. I wonder why that is the case.
Richmond Park Honey - Buffalo Milk Meringue, Bee Pollen and Mead
The honey ice cream is so rich and beguiling. The role it plays alongside the meringue shards and the honey sponge is purely genius. The best part to the dish, much like the ones before, is the balance. While the honey flavors come across strongly in the form of the sponge cake and ice cream, it is mostly the waxy flavor that keeps the sweetness in check. The buffalo milk also adds uplifting acidity to complete the sweet flavors. Finally, the funky flavors are all tied together by the undertone of mead. An interesting mix of flavors, to say the least.
Eucalyptus Chocolate, Juniper Caramel
As a final bite to accompany the coffee and end the meal, this chocolate 'cannoli' consists of a delicate wafer shell piped with fruity, minty and spicy caramel. I particularly like the distinct spice as it complements the bitter espresso aptly.
The chocolate truffle is tasty too, though it is much more ordinary in terms of flavor. I also do not get much eucalyptus flavor. That said, the molten texture within is quite something to write home about.
This is a fantastic meal which evinces Chef Graham's ingenuity and flawless execution. Though the prices have doubled since the last time I visited, I think that the price hike is all the more deserved. After all, meals at the Ledbury are thought-provoking as they are scrumptious. In particular, the food, which showcases classic British terroir, is inventive and stretches the comfort zone. This place will forever hold a soft spot in my heart as it is one of the first few restaurants that opened my eyes to the classical fine dining scene. In the not too long future ahead, I hope that The Ledbury finally achieves its Michelin promotion. But more importantly, I sincerely hope that memorable bacon brioche would make its way to the menu once more. (2017/06/23)