If there is one restaurant opening in 2016 that gets me the most excited, I will undoubtedly say Agern. This restaurant, whose name means "acorn" in Danish, is one of the few, new offerings in New York City serving up locally sourced and foraged farm-to-table cuisine with heavy Nordic influences. The brainchild behind this new restaurant that is nestled in the bustling Grand Central Terminal is none other than Claus Meyer, the man who arguably has as much cult status as Rene Redzepi. After all, Meyer is the co-founder of Noma, a restaurant which frankly, needs no introduction. With this new venture in New York City, Meyer brings along Icelandic chef Gunnar Gislason (Dill, Reykjavik) and Joseph Yardley (Acme, NYC) to implement his ideas of seasonality-influenced Northern European cuisine. Just imagine the excitement I get when I heard of this new offering in New York City, and the even bigger smile on my face when I was able to secure a reservation for prime time (7:30 pm) on a Saturday night with minimal fuss.
Stepping into the restaurant, I immediately get a feeling of quaintness and feel cut off from the noise and bustle of the busy terminal outside. The interior is dimly lit, though bright enough to look at the menus without straining my eyes. Taking pictures though may prove to be a bit more difficult due to the low light conditions. The floor layout, although small, is still able to incorporate rather spacious tables. The architecture particularly screams of serenity as it emphasizes wooden planks and accents in the furnishings, from tables to walls to lamp shades. This predominantly nut brown and slate black color palette truly highlights the modern, minimalistic styling of the restaurant. And this is quite reflected in the food as well too.
There are only two menus on offer, a vegetable-only option and a meat-inclusive option. The latter option is the pricier of the two, which, inclusive of tax and tip, is priced at a modest 145 USD. This is relatively cheap for such a fairly extensive tasting menu coming from a restaurant with staff of this pedigree and training. While I do enjoy the latter menu (more to come after the jump) immensely, I am let down the beverage options. Firstly, while I have to praise the restaurant's philosophy in trying to obtain every facet of the meal from local means, I feel that they are taking things to the extreme, as almost every drink, from beers to wines to spirits, is sourced within the States. Perhaps this is the intention, but I would say this zealous pursuit makes for a rather weak beverage menu, despite several interesting offerings. For example, I am not able to find any Burgundy or Champagne, something I would expect from a restaurant of this caliber. Secondly, while corkage is allowed, the price is somewhat steep at 50 USD a bottle with a 2 bottle limit. Riedel stemware is used, though they are not of the sommelier series. Oh well, another spot crossed off my wine dinner list.
Just as I was leafing through the beverage menu and assessing the options, a parade of dishes arrived in unison.
Ocean Broth
The broth, brewed with Icelandic seaweed, wakame (ワカメ) seaweed and rhubarb along with ocean water, is presented in a French coffee press. With a pump, the steeped liquid is then transferred into a sake glass. Clean and restorative, this is a great start to the meal as the broth is piping hot and warms the stomach well. As expected, there is plenty of umami and salinity to whet the appetite. Wonderful.
Celeriac and Dill
A singular medallion of celeriac rests on the plate and is topped with fragrant dill mayo, a nut mixture and a sliver of radish. I particularly like the supple earthiness of the celeriac as it contrasts well with the crunch of the radish. Meanwhile, the nutty richness acts as a good foil to the acidity in the dill. Plenty of textures and flavors going on and I truly enjoy the refreshing nature of the flavors and temperature.
White Asparagus and Coppa
Next comes a singular stalk of white asparagus presented beautifully in a box lined with herbs and weeds. Along with it comes a small plate of herring mayonnaise topped with breadcrumbs, coppa and parsley. Now this is bloody good. The asparagus, although raw and turgid, is still soft in the center and yields to bite. The saltiness in the mayo and ham truly highlights the woodiness and sweetness in the asparagus. In my memory, this is some of the best mayo I have had as it is especially smooth and luscious. My only complaint - I only get half a stalk, split length-wise. Why can I not have a full one?! Truly baffling way to cut costs.
Oyster and Pine
Probably the most beautifully decorated dish amongst the parade of bites. Resting on the dimple of a circular stone slab is a pine fern. On top of which sits a singular oyster (Kusshi perhaps?) which is decorated with edible flowers, some sort of rhubarb vinaigrette and possibly pine oil. Deliciously fleshy with a smoky undertone, this bivalve tastes just as good as it looks. Again, the clean flavors here win me over - clean flavors not just in taste, but in smell too as the dish boasts plenty of the coniferous tree's fragrance. Not sure what the haphazardly-lying twig is doing there though.
Mackerel and Horseradish
In this bite, mackerel tartare is encased in a kolrabi shell a-la-taco style. Frankly, this tastes like a fancier version of KFC coleslaw (with a lot less mayonnaise, obviously) with a touch of salinity from the mackerel. What I wish I can get more of, however, is the fishy kick from the silver-skinned fish. But I digress. The balance in this bite is particular remarkable as I like the salty fish plays well with the sweetness of the vegetables, the combination of which is elevated by the pin pricks of astringency from the horseradish. Good stuff.
Potato Bread and Lovage
The final bite of the snacks is the only hot one out of the six, and arguably, the best tasting. The potato bread is presented just like the fried interior of a donut and sits on top of more mayo, which is made with lovage this time, a plant that bears some semblance with celery. The bread itself is remarkable, as the crusty, crunchy shell belies the luxuriously supple and airy interior. The aioli does give the bread some flavor, most notably saline notes and woodiness. But to me, the fried dough itself is perfectly seasoned. This dish is less so about flavors but the perfect execution in textures.
It is at this point that I have my first complaint regarding the dish. After the first three bites came, there barely was any spot left on my side to land any additional plates. Now, if that is the case, why bring the other three? I do not get the reasoning behind such hurried pacing of the courses. It is not like the restaurant had a busy cover that night either. But again, this is all about the food. And finally, the actual courses.
Sunflower Seeds - Scallops, Maitake and Daikon
Visually, this is stunning. Crumbled shards of maitake (舞菇) are mixed with sunflower seeds, a burnoise of pickled daikon (大根), and slices of raw scallops. The mixed 'salad' is then topped with sprigs of basil (?). There is just so much going on in this dish, with each flavor and texture playing to the senses. The sauce is vinegary, acidic and vibrant. Meanwhile, I get woodiness and earthiness from the mushrooms and nuttiness from the sunflower seeds. The textures of the seeds and crunchy daikon both serve as perfect foils to the sweet, supple scallops. I am also a particular fan of the broth, which I am guessing consists of strained sunflower seeds puree. There are a lot of inventive flavors here. Each bite is pure bliss.
A side note - I am surprised at just how big the portion is!
Barley Bread with House-Whipped Butter from Grass-Fed Cows from Hamilton, New York
A very generous portion of bread is served in a wooden domed-shaped container. This is some solid bread as it boasts plenty of grainy sweetness. However, it is the butter that steals the show as it is particularly smooth, if not luxurious even. Locally sourced ingredients for the win indeed.
Beef Heart - Green Garlic, Asparagus, Green Strawberry
I am not going to lie. I balked initially when I saw this dish on the menu as I am not a fan of offal, let alone raw offal. Nevertheless, my fears are allayed when I am told that the beef heart in the tartare is first thinly sliced and seared. It then sits on top of an aioli crafted from green garlic and is topped with a multitude of greens, one of which is stinging nettles. A big shout-out to the chef for his knife skills since the chopping on the beef is ultra fine.
Taste-wise, the slight char on the meat particularly elevates the bovine flavors to the next level. The meaty flavors match well with the freshness from the garlic and the tartness from the green strawberries. The woodiness, which I think is a main theme now in each of the dishes, is very much present no less because of the asparagus, garlic and foraged greens. Combined, all these various components create a very memorable dish boasting harmonious, cleansing flavors.
Potato Salad - Green Rhubarb, Cured Egg Yolk, Ramps
This pedestrian name does not even do the dish's complexity justice. It is downright mind-boggling to have so many components - cubes of potatoes, green rhubarb strips, cured egg yolk (more on this later), infused mayo (bacon perhaps?), smoked trout roe, parsnip crisps, ramps (pickled?), garnishes of nasturtium, and more leaves and flowers as garnishes.
Nonetheless, despite the complexity, they all combine to produce a coherent, visually striking (and posh) potato salad bursting with umami, smoke and saline notes. The smoky mayo. The house-cured trout roe. The freshness from the rhubarb. It is impossible to fault such harmony of flavors. Meanwhile, the interplay of textures is on point as well. I enjoy the pops from the trout roe and the crunchy rhubarb, both of which contrast well with the chewy, salted egg yolks.
I am particularly impressed with the details in this dish. Each component is treated with extreme care. For example, the cured egg yolk is made by first salting the beaten yolk, which is then dehydrated in an oven on low heat and then cut into ribbons as garnish. Such fastidiousness behind each detail, as displayed through dichotomous flavors and textures, is what elevates a lowly, homey dish to an indelible memory for years to come. Hands down dish of the night for me.
Salt and Ash Baked Beet Root - Horseradish, Huckleberries
Here, a singular lump of beet root is encased in a shell of salt and ash made from vegetables and egg white. The betterave en croûte de sel is then plopped into the oven and dry baked to give it a smoky flavor. When cooked, the entire crust is then presented at the table where the waiter promptly performed the theatrics. The shell is removed and the beet is excavated, skinned and portioned. The pieces are then presented on a lather of creme fraiche, huckleberries, and beet crisps (made from dehydrated beet juice?).
There is no doubt la racine is the star of the show. Displaying incredible fragrance, earthiness and sweetness, the beet flavors are very much in your face. It is just so succulent and jam packed with flavor. The long lingering finish is particularly deep and brooding. Meanwhile, the huckleberries are sweet and somewhat sour. I suppose that is necessary to keep the dish fresh. All in all, this beet lovers dream presents very pristine flavors supported by a cast of differing flavors and textures. Very nice.
I also took a nibble of the accompanying rye and nut bread. First thought? The bread is super dense! Flavor-wise, the baked good is nutty with subtle grainy sweetness. But at this point, I was starting to get full so I left the substantial carbs on the side.
Lamb Roasted and Braised - Sunchokes, Dill, Dandelions
First things first, I love these knives. The Agern team takes sourcing so fervently to heart that they use steak knives crafted from the famous Danish silversmith Georg Jensen. Details.
But I digress as this is after a post on food. This dish presents lamb cooked in two ways - roasted and braised. The different cuts are then cast on a bed of creme fraiche, dill and sunchokes and topped with dandelion greens. The root vegetable, much like the beets, is smoky and sweet. There is also a dusting of white powder as garnish which apparently is caramelized milk solids. So that is where the sweetness comes from. Meanwhile, the sour cream imparts requisite acidity to cut through the richness of the meat.
Speaking of richness, this may arguably be some of the best lamb I have had. Normally, I am not a fan of this animal as it is often too gamey for my liking. However, the roasted version is mind-blowingly delicious. The alternating layers of fat and meat almost reminds me of the pork belly (東波肉) one would get in Shanghai, sans game and sans fat. In fact, the cooking process has rendered so much of the fat away that all that is left is a crispy lump of meat with just the right amount of grease.
The braised lamb is of a different story. Texturally, it is much more supple with some bite to it. There is also a nice cut of fat as well to make this dish all the more decadent. Truly fabulous.
Rapeseed - Honey, Mustard Flowers
After three substantial courses comes a palate cleanser. And just like the previous dishes, this one is a play on forms too. Sitting inside the dimple of a circular stone slab, rapeseed is presented three ways - as a sorbet, as a crumble and as a drizzle. The sorbet is encased in a delicate white outer shell which is then cracked open to reveal the sweet, grainy liquid within. I like the coolness of temperature and the refreshing malty, seedy sweetness. It is not that in-your-face sweetness but more of the subtle kind one would find when eating adult cereal (I do not mean Cinnamon Toast Crunch or Froot Loops.). Surrounding the shell is a crumble made from toasted grains which taste somewhat astringent and bitterness. Without a doubt, they act as contrasts in both flavor and texture to the sorbet. Everything in this dish is so balanced; and I am quite awed by such a truly harmonious and cleansing pre-dessert.
Frozen Pine Souffle - Skyr Granita, Pine Nuts
First things first. Skyr is a dairy product from Iceland that has a consistency of yogurt but not as tart. Another word to add to my dictionary.
The final dessert is presented in a super cold bowl. The fragrance immediately hits first and frankly, it smells like a forest against a backdrop of sweet, dairy notes. On the palate, the skyr is nutty at first which is then followed by pine-tinged sweetness. I then get some milkiness that is redolent of shortbread. All these flavors are tied together by the woody pine flavors.
Although this is not your traditional souffle, the texture in this dessert is just as airy and light. In particular, I like the chunks of 'frozen souffle' on the side. What a remarkable end to the meal. This is truly one avant-garde dessert.
Mignardises
To close out such a fantastic meal, we are then presented with three miniature bites.
Aerated Chocolate and Chamomile - Extremely light, airy and herbal. Reminds me of the aerated chocolate from The Fat Duck.
Ground Ivy Candy - The interior is crumbly with a sweet pea taste. The exterior has just the lightest touch of sugar coating.
Caramel with Red Seaweed - The seaweed apparently grows off the coast of Denmark. The impart just a riff of salinity much like that of fermented tea leaves. Surprisingly, the caramel is not as sweet as imagine and quite light too.
There is no doubt about it. This meal is hands-down, mind-blowingly fucking delicious. The precision in execution, coupled with the fussy attention over detail and the embracing of complexity, easily makes this one of my most memorable meals in 2016 thus far. I am also a big fan of the restaurant's philosophy of using ingredients to reflect seasonality, which, given Nordic cuisine's propensity for produce, makes for regularly changing items on the menu. Yes, there are some parts of the dining experience that annoy me, such as the waiters serving the amuse bouche all at once and the weak beverage menu. But I am willing to gloss over these minor hiccups as the adventurous food delights my senses like a little boy having his first ever candy. And frankly, even for the most ardent meat-lovers, I am certain that they will discover a new, enjoyable perspective from eating plants. I cannot wait to come back here again for their autumn menu. (6/11/2016)