Unlike those in NYC, ramen shops have seen an explosion in popularity in Hong Kong lately, especially in this year. Specifically, tsukemen (沾麵) has seen a rise in popularity. Just on Tung Lung Street alone in Causeway Bay, I can count over 10 different ramen shops. Given the dearth of quality tsukemen shops in NYC, I just know I have to try as much of these spots in HK before my vacation is over. And so, this review is dedicated to six different tsukemens, over five different shops, that I have tried.
Tsukemen Tetsu (つけめん Tetsu) - Bonito Shoyu Tsukemen with Extra Pork, Menma (メンマ) and Soft Boiled Egg
My first stop brings me to Causeway Bay to a shop called Tsukemen Tetsu. Interestingly enough, it has only been opened for less than a year. Upon settling down, I ordered the main staple, hot noodles with a bonito-based (鰹) dipping soup flavored with a tare (たれ) of shoyu (醬油). The soup is of a medium viscosity, extremely flavorful and without too much oil. The cha-siu is cut on the thin side and mixed into the soup along with menma (メンマ), or lactic-fermented bamboo, and scallions. The egg is done well too, marinated on point and cooked at the right temperature to preserve the runny yolk. I choose the ramen to be served hot, and am promptly served a bowl of noodles covered in a light dashi stock. Nice attention of detail here so the noodles would not stick.
There are some additional condiments on the side, such as fried onions flakes and chili powder. But I find both unnecessary as the noodle itself is very flavorful and satisfying. There is an option to throw a heated stone in the soup (投石暖湯) to keep the soup hot as well. But I am too quick and finish all the noodles before the soup becomes cold. I guess that goes to show how much I love the ramen from this shop.
Tokyo Agura (東京ラーメン) - Agura Special Ramen
Yet another Tokyo-style tsukemen that is based on a bonito and shoyu broth. Though on the pricier side (over HKD 100), the toppings more than justify the cost. There are three types of cha-siu - a paper thin cut of the shoulder (?), a thicker cut of the belly, and cubed cha-siu within the soup dregs. Though on the lean side, the roast pork is quite flavorful, with the thin cut version tasting like peppered deli roast beef. The egg is standard without much surprises. Some minor quibbles for the nori (海苔) and menma, with the former being a bit soggy and the latter too limp from the pickling. The soup, though packed full of flavor, has a thick, discernible layer of oil. As for the noodles, I am quite sure they are not made in-house, as I notice the store clerk cutting open a box of pre-packaged noodles during my meal. Not that there is anything wrong, but for the competitive landscape, I would expect the noodles to be made fresh in-house daily, especially for a ramen on the pricier side of the spectrum.
Despite this, the best thing from this place is the fried prawns. These small crustaceans are flash-fried, much akin to 油爆蝦 from Shanghai cuisine. With a dab of salt and a spritz of lemon, these make delectable little bites when eaten whole. They are crunchy, fresh, and has a umami-rich, chewy center. Very delicious.
Shugetsu (周月) - Tsukemen
I have heard much about Shugetsu, as it is one of the first shops to bring the tsukemen style to Hong Kong. Unlike the other shops, there is a substantial line waiting outside the restaurant. Peering in, I can see that the noodles are made in-house with bags of flour indicating their Japanese origin. Certainly very good signs. Perhaps what sets this shop apart from the rest is its quest for purity and utmost quality. While the flour is flown in from Japan, other parts of the dish are derived from other parts of Japan too - the soy sauce is specifically made for the shop from Ehime prefecture (愛媛県), the sardines are from Seto Inland Sea (瀬戸内海), the kelp is from Hokkaido (北海道) and the mackerel for the stock is from Kumamoto (熊本). The result? A bowl of beautifully crafted, authentic ramen.
The condiments are all inside the stock while the marinated soft boiled egg is served on the side. The stock itself is delicious, with a distinct fishiness and acidity to it not found in other shops. In fact, I can even see dried fish particulates in the soup dregs. In it are cubes of scallions, cha-siu and menma. These are all on par and done decently well. The egg is just what you would expect as well, salty with a runny center. What I am most impressed with are the noodles. They are delectably bouncy with a firmer texture than those at other ramen shops, perhaps as a result of the Shugetsu noodles having higher alkalinity than their peers (Higher alkalinity promotes the hydration of gluten in the dough, making the noodles more chewy as a result.). It may be because of this reason do I feel the noodles "picking up" more broth than normal when I dip them. Either way, this bowl of tsukemen is damn good. Minor points deducted for the noodles sticking together though, making it hard for me to separate with chopsticks.
Ramen Taifu (らーめん台風) - Bonito-based Pork Broth Tsukemen
This is one of the few tsukemen shops not in Causeway Bay. And I do think it does a rather decent job. Just like others, this ramen features the usual condiments - a marinated soft-boiled egg, a sheet of nori, a wedge of lemon, and scallions, cha-siu and menma all inside the broth. I do not find a use for the lemon as I prefer my broths to be heartier than acidic. And the broth does knock it out of the park. It is a bonito based with a good amount of porky goodness to it. But the best part to the soup are the caramelized onions which give it a sweet, hearty, comforting, umami-laden flavor. Meanwhile, the egg is done well and the menma still slightly crunchy. The roast pork, however, is slightly burnt and a bit too thick to chew. The noodles served here also look like those served at Tokyo Agura, which makes me believe that both shops have the same importer for the noodles themselves. This does not faze me, as the quality of the dish is high.
In addition, Ramen Taifu serves more 1.5x more ramen noodles than other shops. This, combined with the no service charge policy (no 10% tip added), makes Ramen Taifu a solid shop with high quality-price ratio.
Ramen Taifu (らーめん台風) - Bonito-based Pork Broth with Tomatoes and Sakura Ebi Tsukemen
Second time here and trying the another menu item. This time round is the tomato sakura ebi (桜海老) tsukemen. This creation is definitely unique and not found elsewhere. Although the soup is dashi-based, I could barely taste the bonito. Instead, I get copious amounts of sweet, tangy tomatoes and pork bones. The sakura ebi adds a depth of flavor to it, mostly shellfish umami flavors. Bones, tomatoes, dashi and shellfish. Drinking the soup by itself, I get a peppery kick too. A very unlikely combo but it works. Even more remarkable is that the soup is not fatty, which prevents the broth from being overly viscous and cloying. Superb stuff. The noodles, along with the condiments are similar to those of last time's. I am impressed to see that the shop slices the cha-siu thinner this time too. Perhaps the meat is also grilled/braised longer this time round as they are definitely more tender. This is some very unique ramen that goes down easily without generating much guilt. I cannot recommend it enough to those who want a change to the typical flavor profiles of traditional tsukemen.
Mita Seimen Jo (三田製麵所) - Tsukemen
Just like Shugetsu, there is always a line outside Mita Seimen Jo which vouches for its quality given the competitive landscape and location (on Tung Lung Street). Also, just like Shugetsu, Mita Seimen Jo makes the noodles on premise every day. Delving in, the condiments are just like the others - a thin slice of cha-siu that tastes like ham with some marbling, menma that are turgid, flavorful and crunchy, diagonally-cut scallions, and the typical marinated soft boiled egg. The broth itself is grainy (thanks to the dregs) and hearty, though on the light side in terms of flavor. This is surprising as the shop use both pork and chicken bones in the soup. Despite this, it is the noodles that is the unsung hero amongst all components. Delectably turgid yet soft, these noodles snap in half at the slightest pressure. It is quite unlike anything I have before. Although I am not a particular big fan as I prefer my ramen chewy and soup flavorful, I can see how this shop has its appeal. After all, when juxtaposed amongst ten or more competitors, all within 100 meters of each other, Mita Seimen Jo still manages to get a big portion of the customers and holds a waiting line. Well-made tsukemen, but not for me.