There is probably no other restaurant out there in NYC that serves more aptly as an anti-elitist icon as Contra. Crushing standards since 2013, Contra places itself on the dining map by serving up a 7-course, refined Nouveau-American dinner at a very modest price tag of just $67 per person. In such a saturated market which easily charges over $100 per person for this type of food, what Fabian von Hauske and Jeremiah Stone, with a combined resume harking from the greats like Noma, Jean-Georges, Attica and Chateaubriand, is a far cry from other established restaurants in the City that do the same thing. And despite the accessible pricing, the set menu does not skimp on its ingredients, execution and thoughtfulness. Needless to say, this is great news for those who are within NYC’s food-loving subculture, myself included. And surely enough, on my visit to Contra, I left thoroughly satisfied. And so, when I read that Wildair, the brainchild behind the same duo aiming to serve heartier and even more laidback à la carte, opened in July 2015, I know I must give it a try.
Wildair is the down the street of Contra, one block away. Different from Contra, there aren’t any paneled wooden tables or booth seats. Rather, Wildair features a slate and concrete color scheme with wooden floors and open brick walls. The dining room is slightly cramped as there is not much space between the long, double-decked tables and high bar stools. Despite the cold interior that is reminiscent of Nordic architecture, the restaurant feels welcoming as it features an open kitchen design which lets the sounds and scents permeate into the dining room. On my visit to Wildair, I am lucky to not have to wait for over 20 minutes before being promptly sat down.
The menu is simple and clean, with all dishes marked below $20 (other than the Wagyu special) and feature no more than 4 ingredients each. Glancing around the tables, I see that the portion sizes are decent. But that does not matter as I am ravenous. And I end up ordering pretty much every hot dish there is available.
Breakfast Radish and Seaweed Butter
This dish consists of a fair amount of breakfast radishes, tubular in shape and pink in color. They sit on top of a smattering of wasabi-colored butter dusted with nori powder. The radishes themselves are incredibly refreshing with a delectable crunch. Taste-wise, they are herbal, sweet and slightly piquant with a bitter tang in the end. These pair really well with the butter which has a luxurious texture and a smoky, saline (like ocean air) taste imparted by the seaweed.
Scallop Crudo, Kale, Cucumber, Ruby Red
This is a stunning dish of raw scallops that features a delicate interplay between sweet, umami and sour. The scallops, cut into big chunks the size of baby beets, are beautifully transparent, snappy in texture, incredibly sweet and succulent. They are dressed in a simple vinaigrette constructed mostly of citrus juices. Accompanying the mollusks are hunks of ruby red grapefruit that boast a smack of bitterness and astringency to the dish. Meanwhile, there are also slivers of charred cucumbers which act as a smoky counterpoint. Finally, to provide a textural counterpoint, shards of dehydrated kale chips rest on top of all the other ingredients. There is just so much going on here in both colors and flavors. Top class.
Roasted Cauliflower, Onion, Watercress
Florets of cauliflower are dry roasted so their cores are soft and their heads crisped. These florets sit on top of a savory brown sauce that is composed of a puree made from roasted cauliflowers and roasted onions. To tie the dish together, there is also a watercress salad with a light vinaigrette dressing sitting on top of the florets. And finally, tiny heads of raw (or pickled?) cauliflower are snipped on as a garnish. That the lowly cauliflower can be presented in three different ways within one dish truly shows the inventiveness and intellect behind the cook. What I find most delicious in this dish are the homey flavors that shine through this ubiquitous vegetable. This is simple food done very well.
Georgia White Shrimp, Celery, Cilantro
The sizes of these shrimps are quite respectably large. These crustaceans, along with garlic and onion and other aromatics, are then confit in an oil that has been infused with their tomalley. The result is a platter of perfectly-cooked, succulently sweet shrimp, snappy in texture with a heady aroma similar to that of XO sauce. To cut through the richness, there are also leaves of fresh cilantro and shaved celery pickles. The interplay between the richness of the sauce and the supporting structure is the key to making this dish so delicious, and dare I say, so Cantonese (i.e.: XO 醬炒明蝦球). Minor gripe? This dish is quite oily but that is expected for any confit dishes.
Fried Squid, Spring Onion, Lemon, Basil
And now for some tempura with a Western twist. Here, we get a full squid cut into bite-sized pieces which are encased in the sheerest of batter. Along with the seafood comes sprigs of scallions and wedges of caramelized lemons. The dish is then finished off with shards of fresh basil, sprinkles of nori and a pitch-black squid ink aioli. The smell is a mixture of fried-food-goodness intermixed with the sharp herbal aroma of the basil, which frankly, is very satisfying. Cooking-wise, the frying is exquisite as the paper is barely blotched by oil. The texture of the squid is on point with a delectably bouncy texture and just the right amount of pressure. The flavor is on point too, with the seasoned batter working well with the saline squid, sweet lemons and astringent scallions. It almost reminds me of the Cantonese salt-and-pepper fried squid (椒鹽魷魚). Meanwhile, the sauce is just what you would expect - creamy with a depth of salinity and umami. I personally do not think there is a need for the squid ink mayo as it masks the freshness of the ingredients. Nevertheless it works well. Great.
Spicy Tuna, Scallion, Tomatoes
This dish screams of heavy Asian (a mixture of Japanese and Korean perhaps) influence, and is quite truly a fusion dish. Tuna tartare is marinated in copious amounts of Korean chilis. The tartar is then mixed with diced tomatoes and heaped generously on a piece of sourdough flattened and grilled on the plancha. Finishing the dish off are ribbons of scallions and toasted sesame. A very refreshing dish possessing flavors you would expect - fiery, sweet and sour thanks to the tomatoes and chilies. Texturally, the cubes of raw fish yield to the bite while the fruits and grilled bread lend a crispy contrast. This is a pleasurable homey dish, almost like the ones you would find in K-town restaurants but with a Western twist.
Littleneck Clams, Toast, Spinach, Lardo
Wow! For me, this is one of the most memorable dishes of the night as the clams are just so fresh and plump. Here, the bivalves are shucked and served on top of a thick slice of sourdough, which is thick enough to soak up the delicious clam broth and lardon oils while keeping the crust crispy. Great attention to detail here. The clams, perfectly cooked, are incredibly tender and sweet. Meanwhile the sautéed (?) spinach lends a hearty aspect to the dish. The stock itself is deep and comforting, with a depth of salinity moderated by spritz of lemon juices and shavings of astringent horseradish. This dish is so good on so many levels - the complexity of taste combinations, the heartiness of ingredients, and the lightness in the flavors. A lot of restaurants juxtapose clams and bacon in their cooking, but most of them invariably end up being pretty heavy. That Wildair is able to do it while keeping things light is what makes the dish so memorable.
Pork Milanese, Gribiche, Mustard Greens
The pork Milanese is made using the shoulder part of the pig where there is a welcoming ratio of meat and fat. The meat is then seasoned with salt and pepper before being breaded and deep-fried. And my God is it tender. Cutting into it, the crust is crisps up while the center is pink and soft with the meat juices glistening inside. The seasoning is impeccable and the frying is flawless. Meanwhile, the gribiche, mixed with house-made mayonnaise, is pretty standard, enjoyable but nothing to write home about. I do love the pieces of hard boiled egg whites though, as well as acidity from the salad of mustard greens source from Loani Farms in upstate New York. I was pretty full at this point and only took small bites of the dish. Definitely felt slightly guilty that I did not finish the entire dish.
Look at that pork fat glistening in the light.
Panna Cotta, Watermelon Granita
This is definitely another highlight of the meal. The panna cotta is delectable and most importantly, light. Having a consistency of "lightly clinging onto the back of the spoon", the pudding is creamy but not cloying. You can even see the vanilla beans set inside the cream. The pink colored granita, made from watermelon juice, is cool and certainly helps with the lightness of the dessert by bringing a fruity sweetness and slight acidity. On the top of the granita is a layer of caramel milk crumble which brings a malty flavor. Although the three ingredients sound pretty far-fetched when juxtaposed together, they do work quite well together to create a dessert that is tasty, refreshing and light. This is definitely one of those dishes that showcases the inventiveness of the chef.
The different layers of the panna cotta.
What a meal it is. And certainly one of the more memorable ones I have eaten this year. From start to finish, every dish is strong, thoughtful and well-executed. For me, I would even take this over the flagship restaurant because of the casualness of the dining atmosphere. Moreover, having it a la carte means you can share and also not be pressured to eat through a multi-course dinner. The ingredients are fresh here and the cooking style/techniques are quite inventive. This is definitely one of the spots I will be on the look out for in the year to come. Next step, checking if they would allow outside bottles. This place would be a great wine dinner candidate...(10/1/2015)