Not much needs to be said to introduce Tom Colicchio, the brainchild behind the eponymous restaurant Colicchio and Sons. As one of the co-founders of Gramercy Tavern, Colicchio is particularly recognizable since he he is one of the head judges on Bravo's Top Chef. Every season running. There is no question that he is one of the selected few in the upper rungs of the New York dining empire. But unlike some of his contemporaries, he can be found every now and then behind the stove to cook instead of merely surveying his restaurants. It is this personal touch that converts me to become a fan of his establishments.
Opened in 2010, Colicchio and Sons is no longer new. Suffice to say this review is not my first time at the restaurant. After all, the wine service is especially stellar. The restaurant uses Riedel sommelier series stemware and promotes waived corkage Mondays. As such, this place has long been a perennial favorite of mine to host wine dinners. That said, it has been quite a while since I have been here. More than 1 year to be exact. And when I learnt that the restaurant abandoned its three-course menu in lieu for small plates last year, I was all the more excited to try the new offerings.
'Twas a Friday night, yet surprisingly, the main dining room was not packed, even during prime dinner times. Perhaps it was the summer, and most of the New Yorkers were off and about on their three-day weekends. No wine tonight as I came straight from the office. As I did not want a heavy dinner, I stuck with mostly seafood dishes instead of the protein offerings the restaurant was famous for.
Amuse Bouche
Sitting on a metal spoon is a ball of compressed watermelon. This yellow-flesh cultivar surely is an uncommon sight. Although only lightly dressed, the melon has multiple layers of fresh, vibrant flavors. There is heat from the chili, acidity from the citrus and rich nuttiness from the cashews as well. All these facets are tied together by the cooling sweetness of the melon itself. Perfect for combating the summer heat. Quite good.
Spot Prawns with Sweet Pepper and Dashi
Continuing with the theme of light, cool dishes comes this plate of crudo. The prawns are delectably plump, snappy and are bursting with sweetness. The quality of the prawns surely speaks for itself. The basil-dominated dashi complements the crustacean well as the acidity and spice freshen up the shellfish. I also like the pickles and the astringency in the radish. This dish is a testament that simple and fresh ingredients need only few accouterments, if any, to shine.
Bread
Equally memorable is the bread. Just like Perla, Colicchio and Sons serves the bread in a mini cast-iron pan. Glistening under the candlelight, the brioche is glazed with melted butter and topped with fleur de sel. Needless to say, the bread is extremely rich, though this is tempered well by the airiness of the interior. Although they are not good for the heart, these are some deliciously satisfying dinner rolls.
Spanish Octopus with Avocado, Cilantro and Black Chili
Octopus is cooked thoroughly and the texture is quite tender. Boasting plenty of smokiness and mackerel-like fishiness, the mollusk goes well with the spicy fennel (?) slaw. The green sauce, which I believe is avocado and cilantro puree, is light, foamy and not overly rich. However, while the flavors and cooking technique are on point, I have two problems with this dish. First is the plating. The avocado-based sauce looks haphazardly smeared onto the dish like a layer of freshly-poured cement oozing around the edges. Second is that stick of thyme. Not sure what functional purpose the stalk is doing there. Surely, the restaurant would not expect me to eat it, right? Then why put it on the plate?
Peekytoe Crab and Sea Urchin Ragout
I am always a sucker for uni and crab. And when the two are combined, I know I just have to get it. As soon as it arrives, this dish screams of butter and cream. Rightfully so, as the ragout is wonderfully decadent and rich. The saline taste of the seafood pairs well with the sweetness from the crabs. The pommes puree underneath is equally luxurious too. Nevertheless, the ragout is not hot enough for me. And neither do I get much of the sea urchin flavors. I only wish I get more of that in-your-face sea urchin sweetness.
I also notice a nice attention to detail. There is a napkin placed between the bowl and the serving plate. This will prevent the bowl from sliding and affecting presentation. Now, why can they not apply the same careful thought in the previous dish too?
Spaghetti with Garbanzo Beans and Morels
It is summer season so morels are in full bloom. And what better way to eat them than to have the fungi cooked simply in a pasta dish? The spaghetti itself is cooked al dente and is delectably chewy. Meanwhile, the mushrooms are plump, earthy, and juicy, a sure testament to the seasonality of the fungi. Just like the morels, the garbanzo beans (chickpeas) are also in season and display unabashed buttery sweetness. The marriage between the mushrooms and beans is simply divine. And despite the dusting of cheese, the dish does not feel heavy at all. This simple yet fabulously delicious summery pasta is truly enjoyable.
Bouillabaisse with Fava Beans and Shellfish
As soon as our waiter is parading towards our table, I can smell the unmistakably heady shellfish coral aroma that is my bouillabaisse. Although there are faults, this is arguably one of the better renditions I have had of the Provençal fisherman's stew. Served atop medley of shellfish and vegetables, the broth is light and wholly intoxicating. The tomato and potato burnoise provide substance to the entree as the seafood provides that delicious briny kick. The diver scallop is perfectly seared and translucent in the center, while the mussels are sweet and snappy. The crowning jewel, however, is the squash blossom, replete with a knot tied with a singular chive stem. It is such a pleasant surprise to find the flower be filled with a prawn dumpling, the taste of which is akin to Cantonese fish balls.
Two faults, however. Firstly, the prawns are overcooked and somewhat leathery. This is quite regrettable as I have high hopes, given the quality of prawns from the aforementioned appetizer. Secondly, the scallop is a bit over-seasoned and is too salty for my taste. Otherwise, this is a stellar dish with plenty of umami and richness (and cholesterol!) to boot. Hopefully it will be better executed next time.
A nice touch of service - parting gift of a singular zucchini muffin.
Compared to the previous three-course prix fixe menu, I prefer this new approach of offering small plates. Not only are the dishes cheaper, but smaller portions also allow diners the chance to sample a wider variety of ingredients, cooking technique and flavors. This will undoubtedly be more helpful for me as I eat my future wine dinners here. One thing also of mention - despite the change in the menu, the service is just as attentive and non-intrusive as before. Hopefully, the faults in tonight's dinner are a one-off event, and are not indicative of any systemic problem. Free corkage Mondays and Riedel sommelier stems, here I come! (6/10/2016)